Advice on Choosing A Mini Lathe

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

I bought mine, a 7 x 12 Warco about 10 years ago in almost unused condition. Included was the milling slide which has one shortcoming. It attaches to the cross slide where the compound sits. So it is too far from the centreline of the lathe without a modification before you start.

There is a wealth of useful information and useful modifications and improvements on http://www.minilathe.com

[Bob StevensonParticipant @bobstevenson13909]

Just because a lathe is under 20inch bed length does NOT automatically denote it as a 'mini-lathe'… Neil went to considerable trouble to detail the type in his earlier posts but the message did not appear to get thru….

 

To reiterate; a 'Mini-lathe' is a particular type of Chinese lathe made in two (formerly three) factories to more or less the same design (which may have originally been of Russian origin) and are described (in /American parlance) as the 7×12 series which is currently up to 7×14 now…. With a bit of study one can quickly identify the mini-lathe in the products of all the usual importers.

 

Thus, Warco offer Chinese 'Mini-lathes' in their smaller lathe types and also offer the 'WM xxx' types which are mainly larger…although the smallest of these, WM180 overlaps the mini-lathes in size BUT SHARES THE LARGER FEATURES of the WM250 and series… I had a 'mini-lathe' and now use a WM180 which is not remotely like a mini-lathe being much better designed and engineered etc. Also Wm180 comes with chucks, rests, tools etc

 

This is a 'mini-lathe';  https://www.warco.co.uk/metal-lathes/302922-mini-hobby-lathe.html    The 'Conquest' from Chester is very similar as it's also a 'mini-lathe'.     The drawbacks of the type include the top slide being a touch too thick and the bed a touch too narrow..the usual rubber feet don't help but can be removed/replaced.

 

…..Hope this helps!

Edited By Bob Stevenson on 16/02/2020 20:00:00

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember19781]

[This posting has been removed]

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Just to bump what Neil has already said. I watch Quin from Blondihacks on yoube. She did a piece on Chinese / Asian lathes. The point she made & Neil has described, was mostly they all look the same but.

The companies that assemble & distribute them all use there own parts , like the bearings for instance. Some cheap Chinese bearings, you can file the outer cage they are so soft. I agree some are pretty good for the money & should last a long time . While others that look identical, will need much work & maintenance to keep them running accurately. I have watched many revues of out of the box models & some require a huge amount of work just to get them up to scratch. YouTube is full of revue's for anyone considering buying a new Lathe. No matter what it is a cheap way to get into small engineering work.

Steve.

Edited By Steviegtr on 17/02/2020 00:54:45

Edited By Steviegtr on 17/02/2020 00:55:44

[Eric LucasParticipant @ericlucas71410]

Is a unimat3 a mini lathe?

eric

[MC Black 2Participant @mcblack2]

Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 30/03/2019 22:43:38:

Perhaps we need to define our terms. Suppliers in both the UK and USA describe 7×12 and 7×14 lathes as mini lathes. I suggest that Sherline and Taig lathes (and Pultra, Flexispeed and Adept) could be referred to as micro lathes.

Cheers,

Rod

I have a Taig/Peatol lathe (I was told that the Taig lathe is called Peatol in United Kingdom because Taig is rude in Irish)

I would be delighted to talk about it to anybody who sends me a message OFF LIST with his/her telephone number. (Offer applied only in mainland UK)

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember32069]

[This posting has been removed]

[Ketan SwaliParticipant @ketanswali79440]

Posted by Eric Lucas on 26/06/2020 22:24:52:

Is a unimat3 a mini lathe?

eric

Whilst a unimat 3 may be a good lathe, it sits in the broad category of a micro lathe, lathes which are usually smaller than a mini-lathe.

If you look at Warcos website, you will see that a mini-lathe is significantly larger. Link here which also refers to their statement that 'Warco invented the term Mini Lathe' under the section headed 'Buying a hobby lathe'.

Mini-lathe is a popular 'keyword' – in search engines. So many people/sellers in marketing use this key word to draw attention to anything they want to promote/sell, even though the product sits in the micro lathe category.

There is also a term baby lathe, which is used for lathes smaller than a micro lathe. Still, certain marketing people use the popular keyword 'mini-lathe' to describe such machines in search engines too.

Ketan at ARC.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

And don't confuse the Unimat 1 / Unimat 6 in 1 with either…

Neil

[Steve NeighbourParticipant @steveneighbour43428]

Posted by Steviegtr on 17/02/2020 00:53:32:

Just to bump what Neil has already said. I watch Quin from Blondihacks on yoube. She did a piece on Chinese / Asian lathes. The point she made & Neil has described, was mostly they all look the same but.

I have watched 'Blondie Hacks' also, and always thought Quinn was a 'he' . . . . oh well , little did I know.

Anyway ' Quinn ' is a very good source of skill set videos on all types of lathe operations and more for those starting out in metal machine work

[Model EnginerdParticipant @modelenginerd]

The Sherline set is very accurate and rigid for its size. Highly recommend the mill with the adjustable angle plate and rotary table. The best part is I can grab either and set them on the kitchen island and go to town.

As long as one is patient making light cuts it works great on larger items. There's a good article of a gentleman turning an Ø8 1/2" flywheel on the mill. The reason I mention the mill, is that I can turn reasonably sized items on the lathe, then move the chuck+part directly on the zeroed mill and back with no issue. The chucks can mount on the rotary table, the mill spindle, and lathe tailstock too. If Z clearance is an issue, they make an extension and/or a horizontal milling setup using the same machine.

Downside is the machines can get corroded quickly. If you're an oddball like me and like cleaning after use, I clean, grease all contact surfaces, and WD40 the rest with a paper towel. If you don't have a heated garage, they can be set in a cabinet or closet during the winter. Because of the light cuts and cheap HSS, I hardly use coolant, so a vacuum zips up the swarf in quick fashion.

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

I also have Sherline but thought here we were defining mini-lathe as the Chinese manufactured family.

i think most readers will be considering a mini- lathe for one of 3 factors; small footprint and light to set up, affordability and 'big enough for what I need.

Reading these blogs eliminates the 'big enough' argument – it invariably applies that the biggest machine you can get will likely be needed at some stage so it really comes down to the first 2.

So the question that I would like to see explored is; are the Chinese mini-lathes the way to go, or the non Chinese variants like Sherline.

I have no experience of the Chinese lathes so cant make the comparison but chose the Sherline lathe and Mill for their size, I have an 8ft by 4 ft shed for all my hobby work.

Thoughts – or am I drifting too far from this blogs remit?

Stuart

[Model EnginerdParticipant @modelenginerd]

I re-read the post, and I guess I see the emphasis being towards the Chinese stuff. I know for certain the runout is much higher and the plastic gears on a lot of them wear out prematurely and are noisier.

Making smaller parts usually means tighter tolerances. If the work wobbles, you could get away with turning work close enough. You would be far less likely to successfully do the same cutting without chatter by hand (Cris/Clickspring style). If it were me turning small diameters under magnification, I'd buy a high quality headstock ($107.25) and leather band it to my antique treadle.

Do the Chinese lathes have provisions for W-W collets?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

WW Collets would be too limited on size for most Minilathe ( 7 x ** ) users, they are more likely to go the ER collet route and could in theory use 2 micron runout collets if they really had the need for that sort of accuracy.

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

Jason, On my Sherline I find Weldon bits held in a tool holder with screw work very well. I particularly like that the holder tightens onto the outside of the shaft rather than a drawbolt pulling the collet into the morse taper. Both feel secure and accurate but the tool holder is easier to remove.

Personal preference I guess.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

WW collets tend to be used for workholding as would ER collets on a Minilathe but ER do have the advantage of being far more universal which is another reason many will opt for them.

Sidelock are OK provided the holder is well made as that side screw will throw the tool shank off to one side if there is any slop in the fit.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Stuart Munro 1 on 13/04/2021 07:09:59:

I also have Sherline but thought here we were defining mini-lathe as the Chinese manufactured family.

i think most readers will be considering a mini- lathe for one of 3 factors; small footprint and light to set up, affordability and 'big enough for what I need.

Reading these blogs eliminates the 'big enough' argument – it invariably applies that the biggest machine you can get will likely be needed at some stage so it really comes down to the first 2.

So the question that I would like to see explored is; are the Chinese mini-lathes the way to go, or the non Chinese variants like Sherline.

I have no experience of the Chinese lathes so cant make the comparison but chose the Sherline lathe and Mill for their size, I have an 8ft by 4 ft shed for all my hobby work.

Thoughts – or am I drifting too far from this blogs remit?

Stuart

Confusion abounds! I understand a mini-lathe to be one of the many variants of the same basic design like this example from Warco. It's not a general term for 'any small lathe'.

Mini-lathes are modern design (about 1960), weigh about 35kg, speed in two ranges variable between 100 and 2500rpm, motor between 400W and 800W depending on model, they take a 90mm ( 3½" ) flange bolt-on chuck, and the bed has about 80x250mm usable space. Spindle bore 20mm (3MT), tailstock 2MT, tool-post takes up to 10mm tools. The Imperial version cuts metric threads and vice-versa.

Sherlines are not mini-lathes. Different design. The 8" version weighs about 10kg and has a 90W motor. The spindle bore is 10mm, and they don't screw-cut.

Though mini-lathes and Sherlines can do similar work, they're aimed at rather different markets. Sherline are good for small precision work, mini-lathes are more general-purpose, where the extra power and weight pay off. By analogy, if a Sherline was a scalpel, then a mini-lathe would be a bread-knife. Both are useful in their place.

Mini-lathes are a convenient way for beginners to get into metal turning. They're inexpensive, have all the basic features, and are big enough to tackle small jobs, whilst not being so massive as to require a crane! (I'd describe them as semi-portable, an easy two person lift.) I learnt a lot from mine, chiefly concluding it wasn't big enough for about 20% of what I wanted to do. Someone into O-Gauge railway models or smaller might well decide mini-lathes are too clumsy for delicate work. In my opinion what the tool is for is more important than who made it. Whether or not a mini-lathe takes WW collets is irrelevant in my workshop because I don't need them. Cowells take them, though they're a lot more expensive than a Sherline…

Zeb's says of mini-lathes: 'I know for certain the runout is much higher and the plastic gears on a lot of them wear out prematurely and are noisier.' Not my experience. Run-out measured at the spindle taper was undetectable with a 0.01mm DTI, the plastic gears didn't wear out, and they're much quieter than steel ones! Wouldn't describe the mini-lathe as a paragon though! Crudely finished and obviously made down to a price. Based on negative web comment I expected mine would need a lot of work before doing anything useful. Wrong! It worked out the box and only needed minor fettling.

Stuart asked: are the Chinese mini-lathes the way to go, or the non Chinese variants like Sherline. My answer: Horses for courses. It depends on what the lathe is for.

Dave

Edit: I hate smileys!!!

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 14/04/2021 08:25:22

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Zeb Flux on 14/04/2021 02:07:03:

I re-read the post, and I guess I see the emphasis being towards the Chinese stuff. I know for certain the runout is much higher and the plastic gears on a lot of them wear out prematurely and are noisier.

My experience is somewhat different. The runout and overall accuracy is generally very good and limited by how well the lathe is set up, almost irregardless of manufacture, although better quality bearings can improve things further if needed.

The plastic gears are distinctly quieter than most metal gears IME. A propensity to break under the sort of abuse dished out by beginners (e.g. crashing tool into chuck) is more of an issue than wear. A mixed blessing as in some cases such breakage prevents more serious damage. Replacement metal gears are available, although many brushless machines don't have/need gears in the headstock.

As for change gears, the nylon ones are virtually silent and wear/breakage are almost unknown.

The Sherlines are great lathes, marketed on precision rather than muscle, but teh 1.75" centre height makes them more comparable to Cowells, Teag/Peatol and some Unimat machines..

A 16" bed mini lathe has capacity more comparable to a Super 7, aside from not having a gap bed.

I think they are intended for very different applications.

Neil

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 14/04/2021 08:23:27:

Posted by Stuart Munro 1 on 13/04/2021 07:09:59:

I also have Sherline but thought here we were defining mini-lathe as the Chinese manufactured family.

i think most readers will be considering a mini- lathe for one of 3 factors; small footprint and light to set up, affordability and 'big enough for what I need.

Confusion abounds! I understand a mini-lathe to be one of the many variants of the same basic design like this example from Warco. It's not a general term for 'any small lathe'.

Dave

Edit: I hate smileys!!!

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 14/04/2021 08:25:22

Ouch. I did read your earlier redirect and posited that people might be looking at a range of options of which the mini lathes are just one option.

But I'll resist thinking on paper again, and avoid smileys

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

For what it’s worth [ i.e. probably nothing ]:

The Pultra 17/50 and 17/70 were, in their time, known as Micro Lathes.

… and I have a watchmaker’s 6mm Geneva pattern Lorch ‘gap bed’ 

Arbitrary categories are as counter-productive in Lathe descriptions as they are in Record Shops !

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 14/04/2021 18:44:56

[Model EnginerdParticipant @modelenginerd]

I stand corrected.

[Tim StevensParticipant @timstevens64731]

It is a fact of life that we – all of us – put things into categories. The most pressing reason we do this is WORDS. Without categories, words wouldn't work. So it is just something we have to cope with.

Cheers, Tim

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Word of the day: Arbitrary

.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Above all, do remember that you are buying a hobby machine, built down to a price.

A £600 machine will do the job, but not to the same level of precision, durability, reliability, or "Quality feel" as a Toolroom lathe of the same size, costing 30 or 40 times as much.

Before the flak starts flying; I have one!

Howard

[Stuart Munro 1Participant @stuartmunro1]

Neil, that you for initiating an interesting blog.

I can see and agree with the aim of a single category discussion such as this, yet also agree with those (I was one of them) who sought to define the edges of the 'Chinese family mini-lathe' by exploring the options around that are in many ways similar, yet still different. Indeed this must be of great help to those considering the purchase of a mini-lathe.

As a member for only a few months I'm delighted at the range of discussions on this site, and the lack of propensity to close down discussions some commonly seen much social media.

I will just leave with one contentious question, if smileys are edited out, why put the function in the site?

Stuart

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