Adhesion to build plate

[John Doe 2Participant @johndoe2]

I have an Anycubic Mega S and have used it for about a year, using Shapr3D and Cura slicer.

It has been a steep learning curve but I have worked through the Cura expert settings and machine set-up to arrive at a pretty good set up that can print quite well.

However, I have occasionally had bed adhesion failures, and recently been having a lot of print failures. The Mega S has a non-removable heated glass bed. I tried to print a PETG temperature tower 6 times, using a raft, but each time the tower lifted, moved and jammed into the extruder nozzle. Last night a print of a large fence post cap failed as the layers separated, but the exact same file printed two weeks ago printed OK, except for a bit of stringing and rippling.

I have resorted to gaffer-taping the models’ raft down onto the build plate, but even then, they sometimes lift.

I have cleaned the build plate multiple times with Acetone, and IPA, as I always have done, and also degreaser, and methylated spirit.

Can anyone suggest what might have happened ? I have cleaned as above and checked the Z clearance – with feeler gauge rather than paper.

Despite all my cleaning, might I have left a layer of something on the print bed ? – I seem to be getting a lot of adhesion issues at the moment, which I didn’t have before.

Cleaning advice and others’ experience would be welcome !

 

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

have you EVER use a silicon based product in the room or possibly the house or building ? if so then there may be traces that are causing your problem. Noel.

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Having also experienced some poor bed adhesion problems of late with an object of a size greater than I normally print, I suggest that you try printing with a brim instead of a raft. I tend to use one of 10mm width as belt and braces, although my slicing software defaults to 5mm. Additionally, try using a covering of glue stick applied to the bed plate.  Cheap “Pritt Stick” will do just fine.  I’ve not used PETG filament myself so my experience with PLA and PLA-CF may not be relevant to your circumstances.

John

 

[mgnbukParticipant @mgnbuk]

When I had adhesion issues with my Mega (PLA only – not tried other filaments) I found that slightly soapy water applied with a damped cloth, cleaned off with clean water & dried was more effective at restoring the normally very strong grip than IPA.

Nigel B.

[noel shelley]

On noel shelley Said:

have you EVER use a silicon based product in the room or possibly the house or building ? if so then there may be traces that are causing your problem. Noel.

Ah……..good thinking Batman.

Not knowingly in the workshop, but contamination is a possibility; from a rag or my overalls or something. Whatever it is does seem to have ‘suddenly’ happened.

I had better work out how to clean possible silicone off the bed.

I have tried brim and raft, and multiple heat settings for the bed, extruder and cooling fan speed. I will try a Pritt stick as well.

And thanks too mgnbuk.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Temperature stability is essential for success with PETG, not sure if your printer is enclosed but it may be worth surrounding it with a ‘windbreak’.

I always used to use 50% diluted PVA and got excellent adhesion with PETG, Nylon, ABS and PLA on glass.

These days I’m lazy and use a generic glue stick.

Neil

[John Doe 2Participant @johndoe2]

I don’t know if I saw your reply Neil, or worked it out by myself, but I have been using diluted PVA brushed on, and the results are amazing.

So much so, that I sometimes have major difficulty getting the finished print off the bed now. And the black paint on the (heated glass) bed is gradually coming off – sticking to the base of the printed items.

Nylon is still lifting a but, but PLA and PETG are now staying very well stuck !

Thank you !

 

(I also use a large cardboard box placed over the entire printer during printing. Not sure if this is helping or not).

[ShugsParticipant @shugs]

Found this to be quite successful, using PLA https://3dfilaprint.com/product-category/3d-printing-accessories/adhesives-print-surfaces/printbite-print-surface/

Shugs

[tom_allenParticipant @tom_allen]

I know this is an old post but I would like to add, in case it is helpful to anyone else, that cheap hairspray is good for helping materials stick to the heated bed.

[John Doe 2Participant @johndoe2]

I have seen this recommended, and no doubt it works, but my thinking is that spraying even a mild ‘glue’ might cause problems; with the cloud of glue mist getting onto and into other parts of the machine.

Painting or applying a glue stick on the other hand means it will only get onto the print bed and not anywhere else.

 

[tom_allenParticipant @tom_allen]

I can see where you are coming from but I never found that it caused any adverse issues with my printer.  Its been a while since I’ve had to use hairspray as I now print onto PEI which is very reliable.

[FulmenParticipant @fulmen]

I just upgraded my Creality CR6 with a magnetic PEI sheet, it’s a huge improvement over the old powder coated glass bed. A fresh nozzle can also help, worn nozzles can cause under extrusion that limits the contact with the bed.

[Colin HeseltineParticipant @colinheseltine48622]

I am using Prusa Mk3 with the magnetic steel bedplate.  I clean it every time with Isoclene (IPA) using a paper towel.  I do not have any lifting.  I did have a slight lift a few days ago, then realised that I had somehow switched off the brim.  Reinstated the brim and problem went away.

Have been doing to 12hr prints and have had two fail.  First one snapped the PLA filament just after it had passed through the feed roller, I was able to pull the broken filament out.  Restarted the job and all went ok.  Did another couple of prints all ok.  Put another overnight print on and it snapped the filament again a little shorter than before.  This time could not remove and ended up having to half dismantle the hotend.  Now getting nothing but thermal runaway errors.  Horrible feeling may have damaged the thermister cables but can see no damage.  Mine is a Mk2.5/3 and has the slightly earlier extruder/hotend which requires almost complete dismantling to change any parts or check cabling. Wondering whether the failure was due to older filament having absorbed too much moisture.

Cannot face dismantling and getting nowhere so its getting a Mk3.9 upgrade (sold a load of spare workshop bits over last 12 months).  I have been lent a Zaribo (upgraded Prusa Mk3) to continue printing a BR08 shunter loco and then the parts required for the upgrade.

Colin

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