Acceptable runout on drill chuck

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Jack

Use a pair of wedges between the chuck and the largest diameter on the arbor to safely remove the arbor from the chuck.

Emgee

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Funily enough my truest drill chuck is the one that came with the Sieg X3, with a 10mm HSS blank I get 0.015mm tir but as it's a keyed one I don't use it much. Currently have a couple of ARC keyless ones, the 10mm measures 0.02mm and the 13mm 0.04. The 10mm is the one I mostly use.

[DutchDanParticipant @dutchdan]

Jack, for me the easiest way to get it out was to stick something through the drill chuck and tap it out. Might not be able to with yours though.

Dave, I do like having the right tool for the job, but nothing beyond reason. I agree with you that industrial spec is overkill, so like you I'll be shooting for the middle ground. Buy cheap buy twice does ring true, but spending a premium is not always the best solution.

I'll just figure out what areas to skimp on and where not too as one does over time. That way I have learned not to buy cheap paint or drills for instance, but cheap electronic components are usually fine for my purposes. You live and you learn.

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Posted by jaCK Hobson on 23/03/2022 12:47:39:

Any tips on how to get a chuck off a J6 taper so I can compare with other chucks I have?

Install the chuck/arbor in the mill (or lathe) with a drawbar threaded in a thread or two. Put some packing between the back of the chuck and the face of the mill head (or lathe headstock) and tighten up the drawbar to force the chuck off the arbor.

Mike

[MikeKParticipant @mikek40713]

Posted by MikeK on 23/03/2022 15:09:49:

Posted by jaCK Hobson on 23/03/2022 12:47:39:

Any tips on how to get a chuck off a J6 taper so I can compare with other chucks I have?

Install the chuck/arbor in the mill (or lathe) with a drawbar threaded in a thread or two. Put some packing between the back of the chuck and the face of the mill head (or lathe headstock) and tighten up the drawbar to force the chuck off the arbor.

Mike

I should change this. While I have done this method, once, I didn't realize at the time that it does put stress on the upper spindle bearing. I don't believe I overstressed the bearing, as it didn't take much cranking on the drawbar to separate the chuck, it isn't the best approach. Next time I would use find/make suitable packing to use the spindle face, so that the bearings see no stress at all.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Forgive me for harking-back to the headline …

The “acceptable runout” of a drill-chuck will surely depend mostly upon the diameter of the drill.

DutchDan reports a runout of 0.4mm … which may be just acceptable on 6mm drill [being used for rough work], but it would be disastrous on a 1mm drill !

MichaelG.

[jaCK HobsonParticipant @jackhobson50760]

Thanks for the tip on using the draw bar to remove the chuck. Simples with some parallels. I used similar idea (3/4" pipe sleeve and bolt/washers) on MT2.

Deburring the R8 adaptor with a fine diamond stone got the total runout down to .1mm and .06mm measured of the J6 taper of the adaptor. I think it reasonable to expect .01mm on a reasonable quality adaptor so I will get one. .04mm on cheap 3 jaw keyed 16mm chuck is probably what can be expected?

I might buy another chuck for small drills…

 

 

Edited By jaCK Hobson on 29/03/2022 13:16:33

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