abs

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember88058]

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[Former MemberParticipant @formermember88058]

[Andy StopfordParticipant @andystopford50521]

I found with ABS that it doesn't stick to the build plate unless you first give it a thin coating of ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in acetone).

[The Novice EngineerParticipant @thenoviceengineer]

From my experience

The key points are get the first layer to stick to the print surface, then maintain a near constant temperature [~70C] of the item as its being built.

You really need to consider a heated print plate capable of 100 C at least ,

An enclosure [box/tent] around the build area helps to retain the heat and stop cooling draughts.

Consider additional chamber heating I have a 200W controlled fan heater running at 70C, others have used InfraRed lamps shining on the build plate

As regards print surfaces PEI works well, The ABS slurry [ bits of ABS filament /supports dissolved in Acetone – keep in sealed Jam Jar] also works. 3D Lac spray is a less messy candidate . A different build surface is the perforated plate used with a printed raft that "keys " into the holes in the plate.

Get the levelling of the Print head to the Build surface correct and consistent over the entire print area.

Turn off the cooling fan, you want to keep the temperature of the printed item up. Though small , delicate items may need cooling after the first layers ~10-20%, or print 2 of them to allow one to cool a bit.

Use a wide Brim around the object, even considered a Raft.

Consider using a high nozzle temperature for the first layers , eg ABS with a temp range of say 220 -250 C consider using 260 C and then drop down for subsequent layers.

Not all ABS filaments are equal, some have additives that make printing easier,

I wish you well, my printing of ABS took a while to get consistent success .

Steve

[The Novice EngineerParticipant @thenoviceengineer]

 

A bit of extra clarity re my "fan heater"

The printer has a recirculating centrifugal fan/blower that I have rearranged and fitted a 3D Printed duct with a heater element inside that directs the hot air over the top of the items being printed level with the print nozzle. It is fitted with a thermocouple connected to an external temperature controller. There is also a Thermal cutout as added protection.

This was based on a Stratasys printer that I had access to for a while.

The hot air temp is set to 70C, I usually let the printer heat up [Hot air and heated bed] for around 15-20 mins before printing to get it all nice and cosy for the print

Keep warm

Steve

Edited By The Novice Engineer on 20/08/2021 00:04:12

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember88058]

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[Former MemberParticipant @formermember88058]

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