9×20 Lathe Parts

[Keith Wardill 1Participant @keithwardill1]

I have a 9×20 lathe, and not so long ago, the cross-slide drive thread broke with no warning (no stiffness or binding beforehand). The break was relatively clean at a diameter change between the shaft and the thread.

 

Needing the lathe in a hurry, I made a jig and repaired the shaft by drilling to accept a 3mm hard pin axially (no space for anything much bigger), and brazing the joint, then refitted it after checking that the bearings and nut were aligned OK – all seemed fine, and no operating problems noted.

 

This week I decided to do a more permanent job. However, just before I started, the shaft broke again in the same place – it may be that something was still not aligned correctly, although it is difficult to see how. However, after thinking about it, I want to change the shaft for something a bit bigger. The broken shaft has an 8mm lefthand thread with an abrupt diameter change to allow for a 12mm collar locating against the bearing, but at the point where the thread ends and the collar starts the diameter is reduced to only 6mm (presumably run-in when the the thread cut), and this is where it broke.

 

So, my question is, has anyone seen a replacement kit for this shaft, before I have to re-invent the wheel and make my own? (and fit ball races at the same time). I did find one place on the Internet, but the site is defunct. I do not want to fit a simple replacement spare part – in my opinion it is too thin and fragile, and is too short – it would be possible to increase the travel of the slide by extending the shaft – I estimate an additional 2cms should be possible.

 

Regards to all.

[Keith Wardill 1Participant @keithwardill1]

[Terry LaneParticipant @terrylane]

Have a look here

[SpringbokParticipant @springbok]

Looks like Tel has your answer. all my kit weights about over half a ton.

bob

[michael howarth 1Participant @michaelhowarth1]

Wotsit….I have done the conversion highlighted by Tel…..it works very well.

 

Springbok…..I have left you a pm

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Good to see you have such a quick and useful response. Now, silly question time:

Is it just convention that dictates that the screw thread is left-handed? What would be the consequences of using a right-hand thread, thus saving on the hassle of turning the lead screw left to right and buying a (probably) expensive left-hand tap?

I always have to think which way to turn the cross slide screw to move the slide in or out. It seems to me that a more instinctive set up would be to have a right-hand thread so that turning the cross slide handle clockwise draws the cross slide towards one? Or am I missing something?

John

Edited By John Hinkley on 13/01/2012 08:51:11

[Terry LaneParticipant @terrylane]

It’s more intuitive to wind the handle clockwise to move the slide in, other than that I don’t think there is any reason not to use a r/h thread. BUT it is just as easy to cut the thread l/h anyway, so why not have it going the ‘right’ way. Same with the nut – odds on that will have to be screw cut as well, and it is no more difficult to make it l/h

[Keith Wardill 1Participant @keithwardill1]

Thanks all for the info, but not quite there yet – I have previously seen Steve Bedairs site, and what he has done is exactly what I have in mind. However, I am one of these people who like to use the lathe to make other things, rather than continually modifying my tools, so my first approach to this is to try and find the bits ‘ready made’ – I simply cannot be bothered these days to mess about ‘re-inventing the wheel’ – I also have a 7×10 lathe on which I did a similar mod years ago.

 

John – you make a good point about left and right hand threads – I think the main reason I prefer the original ‘left-hand’ thread, is that I am used to lathes with a left hand thread, so I am afraid I will unwittingly turn the handle the wrong way one day, after I have fitted a right hand thread , as Tel says.

 

Making a shaft and nut is not much of a problem for me, either left or right, but as I said above, I begrudge the time

 

Edited By wotsit on 13/01/2012 10:39:45

[Terry LaneParticipant @terrylane]

I’m no expert on the 9×20’s by any means, having only had mine for a few weeks, but it seems to be pretty well accepted that they do not come RTR out of the box. You probably need to steel yourself to the fact that you will need do do some work on it. I’ve certainly found that to be so.

[Richard ParsonsParticipant @richardparsons61721]

Turning the cross slide/the feed screw nut the wrong way is very common on watch maker’s lathes. It is a damned nuisance if you have been using a ‘Normal Lathe’ for the past few weeks

Dick

[Keith Wardill 1Participant @keithwardill1]

Tel –

 

Despite my dislike of modding machines , I can strongly recommend fitting a 1 to 1.5 HP 3 phase motor driven by a VFD. I did this soon after getting my machine, because I soon got sick of changing belts and gears around. It also allows you to dump the slow speed drive, and the belt tensioner lever, and I have control down to 'inching' speeds, reversing and many other useful functions. Its not cheap, but I reckon its saved me hours of fiddling about.

 

I was able to retain the thin drive belt. I have seen all sort of complaints about this – mainly of the 'its too thin, so it can't be strong enough' variety – I haven't broken the original one yet, in 5 years of fairly hard use.

 

The other must have mod is to make a good solid mount for the compound slide – the original rocks like a cradle in the wind – Steve Bedairs site (and many others) has details – make it as solid as you can, and dump the original lantern toolholder – This guy has a good simple design –http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/lathe-modifications.html

 

I got mine from RC machines in Luxembourg, and they apparently strip and rebuild the machine, so it came out of the box pretty well ready to go. I have made a few adjustments (tailstock mainly) over the years, but I think it was excellent value for money. I hope you get good work from it.

 

This site has a good copy of a rebuild manual from Cletus Berkeley (it used to be in the Yahoo Group at one time) – it refers to the Grizzly version, but fits most makes.

 

www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Manual/Rebuild%20Manual.pdf

 

Just re-read what I wrote – can't believe I said I don't mod my machines – I didn't realise I had done so much over the years. – and now I have to sort out the slide screw – ah well!

 

 

Edited By Katy Purvis on 01/06/2015 12:24:42

[Terry LaneParticipant @terrylane]

Thanks for those – all handy stuff to have as I came to terms with this one and what it needs. It was bought, and will always be, a second machine in my shop, as the Myford has pride of place, but with a resident brother in law and an interested son in law I had to ease the pressure on the old gal somehow!

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by wotsit on 13/01/2012 20:20:58:

This site has a good copy of a rebuild manual from Cletus Berkeley (it used to be in the Yahoo Group at one time) – it refers to the Grizzly version, but fits most makes.

www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Manual/Rebuild%20Manual.pdf

 

Does anyone have a copy of this file or a working link? The above link is broken.

 

Russell.

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Russell,

 

Just type the URL into the address area of your browser – but omit the “%” symbols. Alternatively go to http://www.akpilot.net, click on the links bit at the bottom of the page and follow the links to the page you want.

 

John

[Keith Wardill 1Participant @keithwardill1]

Russel,

John Hinckley has the answer (not sure about the % symbols – I just copied the thing complete into the URL line of my browser (Firefox), and it worked OK). Alternatively open a new tab (if your browser supports it), copy the URL into the address line, and that also works (just done it).

 

If none of that works for you, PM me and I will return the pdf by e-mail.

 

This particular pdf used to exist in several places, but me of them seem to have disappeared now. You may also find it with a Google search – Its a useful maintenance aid for the lathe – I used it a lot just after I got my lathe, and I still refer to it now and again.

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Russel, John and Wotsit.

 

The % can’0t be removed.

The copy may be done two different ways:

1 – Right click on the address and past in the address area on a new tab (Firefox or Internet Explorer or Google Chrome). The result of the operation is:

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/http://www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Manual/Rebuild%20Manual.pdf

2 – Select with the left button and copy then paste on the address area of a tab (Firefox or Internet Explorer or Google Chrome). The content of the copy and paste is:

www.akpilot.net/Rebuild%20Manual/Rebuild%20Manual.pdf

 

If You chose the first option You need too remove the part of the address in bold.

 

The second option works as is.

 

 

Best regards

Dias Costa

 

 

 

 

 

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

The %20 tells the browser to insert a space.

 

20 is the ASCII code for space, and tjhis allows spaces and non-printing characters to be inserted in URLs but to still be handled as a URL will otherwise cut short at the first space.

 

Neil

[clivelParticipant @clivel]

 

Or just click here: Rebuild Manual

 

 

Edited By clivel on 04/02/2012 18:55:30

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Thanks for all the replies. I now have the manual.

 

Russell.

[David HowardParticipant @davidhoward42205]

Posted by wotsit on 13/01/2012 20:20:58:

Despite my dislike of modding machines , I can strongly recommend fitting a 1 to 1.5 HP 3 phase motor driven by a VFD. I did this soon after getting my machine, because I soon got sick of changing belts and gears around. It also allows you to dump the slow speed drive, and the belt tensioner lever, and I have control down to 'inching' speeds, reversing and many other useful functions. Its not cheap, but I reckon its saved me hours of fiddling about.

Hi Wotsit,

I want to replace the stock motor on my 9 x 20, can you please let me know what motor and VFD you fitted to yours?

Specifically, I need to know the motor specifications and make, and the VFD make and model.

All I know about the stock motor is that it is a 550Watt, single phase, 240V, 1500RPM but I don't know what style of mounting foot it has (could be a B3 or a B3/B5?) and what diameter and length the shaft is.

I can't take the motor off at the moment to check those details as the lathe is in store pending installation in my new shed when it's finished. I'm hoping to get a direct physical replacement so I can just bolt it straight on without any messing around.

Did you have to modify the lathe motor pulley to fit the new motor? Did you retain the original gear train?

Many thanks,
Dave.

[Alfie PeacockParticipant @alfiepeacock58331]

I have found this forum post from 2012 about the 9×20 lathe, I to have one of these lathes and would like to fit a VDF to mine. It is not straight forward as the original motor is not a standard fit. I to like David Howard at the time, would like to know if any members on the forum have fitted a VFD to a 9X20 lathe, and what VDF they used and motor.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

I ftted a 3ph motor to my 9 x 20.

I used a TEC 3/4 hp motor, 19mm shaft, with an 80 size frame. The motor does not drop straight in, you need to reduce the shaft size to 14mm for the main pulley bore, I also made some new motor mount feet to permit use of the existing mounting bolts on the lathe bed.

This meant keeping the lathe standard.

The vfd I used is a Teco L 510 rated at 1hp. It is mounted in a Gewiss enclosure on the left side cupboard. i used the original Fwd-S-Rev switch, the main power switch but added a pot for speed control.

[David HowardParticipant @davidhoward42205]

Posted by Alfie Peacock on 27/06/2017 02:50:55:

I have found this forum post from 2012 about the 9×20 lathe, I to have one of these lathes and would like to fit a VDF to mine. It is not straight forward as the original motor is not a standard fit. I to like David Howard at the time, would like to know if any members on the forum have fitted a VFD to a 9X20 lathe, and what VDF they used and motor.

Hi Alfie, I fitted a three phase motor and a VFD to my 9X20 (in late 2012 I think), it works well – should have done it ages ago. VFD is a Movitrac LTE B 0.75kW (1HP) 200-240V. Sorry, I don't know what model motor I used as it's hidden behind the lathe and hard to see, all I know is that it is a 550W three phase with the same shaft size as the original. I can't remember if I made a new mounting plate for it or just re-drilled the existing one. I will have a look when I go out to my shed tomorrow and see if I can get more details for you. I bought the VFD and motor as a package from an electrical shop in Fyshwick, Canberra. I didn't have to modify the lathe in any way except for removing the old motor and all its switch gear, the VFD is controlled via an on/off two way switch (FWD/REV) together with a potentiometer for dialling up whatever speed you want and I also have two inching buttons fitted (FWD/REV again). It is programmable and I have it set so that I can switch to a preprogrammed low speed for screw cutting.

Cheers,

Dave.

[David HowardParticipant @davidhoward42205]

Posted by David Howard on 27/06/2017 08:38:56:

Hi Alfie, …Sorry, I don't know what model motor I used as it's hidden behind the lathe and hard to see, all I know is that it is a 550W three phase with the same shaft size as the original. I can't remember if I made a new mounting plate for it or just re-drilled the existing one. I will have a look when I go out to my shed tomorrow and see if I can get more details for you.

Alfie, I've taken a photo of the motor nameplate and a shot of my VFD and control switches, the big round button is an emergency stop. From the motor pic it definitely looks like I made a new mounting plate, but it was a no brainer. The VFD is an SEW Eurodrive, made in UK. I don't know how to add pics so I have put them up here: http://imgur.com/2yMaMIn and http://imgur.com/qy5AVWZ. Hope this helps.

Cheers, Dave.

[Alfie PeacockParticipant @alfiepeacock58331]

Hello David, I shall send you a message to member

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