Following the recent thread about the Stuart Dynamo I finally got round to testing a 775 motor to see if it would be worth using as the basis for a dynamo that could be driven off a typical model steam engine. Well the results are in and I can reveal IT WILL.
So the lash up consists of:
My first steam model in the form of a Stuart 10V running on air at 30psi I’m sure I could build a better running one now.
12V 3W LED cabinet light
775 Motor with a bit of scrap ali bar and two O rings to pick up drive from the 10V flywheel.
I’m not too worried about volts and amps as like most people I’ll be happy that the lamp lights up.
So time to develop this a bit more and then make some swarf. There should be no need to extend the shafts as I’ll be cutting down the motor’s can so the brushes can be seen
You’ve beaten me to it Jason ! I got hold of 2 775s, an ordinary one for about £9 and one with shafts at both ends for £14 in case I need the longer shaft. I have both a Stuart No 1 and a D10 and so feel happy I have the power. I will aim to use steel scaffold tube as the casing, removing the outer sleeve magnet keeper to reduce the OD to 42ishmm. A pair of cast caps modified will make the ends, but due to the positioning of the magnets only 2 through bolts can be used. A small boss brazed on the outside of the casing for the lifting eye and a brazed foot on the bottom. Sounds like a good plan ? Noel.
Mine will likely come up a bit bigger. Currently thinking of 60mm steel bar as a 75mm length will do the “tube” and two ends although 2 1/2″ material is an option at a price and would allow for a bit of a barrel shape to be added. This will put it at about the same size as the Stuart and PM Research offerings.
Boss on the top will just be a washer into a counterbore with the screw eye threaded into the ticker wall. The same thicker wall will allow as many fixings as I want into the ends rather than tie rods.
Foot will more than likely be JBWeld and a couple of cap heads as it may help it appeal to those who don’t have silver soldering or brazing facilities. Like wise the 4 “L” shaped parts of the end cap, screws, dowels and JBW will do though they could also be soldered.
I recon it could be done for £25 including the motor, not bad compared to the £300 of the Stuart kit.
Talking of Expensive Stuarts, I see they are now showing the “Major 10” series, which are the big engines I posted photos of on there stand at the Midlands show. POA
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