5 inch 0-4-0 Shunter

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5 inch 0-4-0 Shunter

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  • #359187
    Ron Laden
    Participant
      @ronladen17547

      I have a problem with the set of wheels and axles I purchased for the 0-4-0.

      I have spoken with the supplier and he found that the complete batch of wheels from which my set are from all have the same fault. The wheels are normally machined so they are a sliding fit on the axle seat to within 2-3mm from the axle shoulder and then pressed on against the shoulder. Excuse the quick rough sketch below but you can probably see from the dimensions that my wheels will do this but back to front i.e. with the wheel flange to the outside.

      The supplier is producing a new batch of wheels and when ready will send me a replacement set. He also told me to keep the set I was sent and if I can salvage them for now or in the future then fine. My thoughts are to reduce the axle seat to allow the wheels to slide to within approx 2mm of the shoulder ready for pressing on. This would of course leave a difference of 4 thou at the outer end of the axle seat/wheel but I think the wheel would sit square once pressed against the shoulder. Also if I pressed the wheels on and used some Loctite retainer this would take up the 2 thou gap around the wheel/axle.

      Hope my explanation makes sense and would be interested to hear if there is an easier/better way of dealing with it.

      Regards

      Ron

      dsc05962_edited-1.jpg

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      #359189
      Neil Wyatt
      Moderator
        @neilwyatt

        I would set the wheels true in a 4-jaw chuck and ream or bore them out a bit bigger.

        Neil

        #359190
        Bazyle
        Participant
          @bazyle

          If it is just a straight axle it would be best to get a new axle made a tad over size and bore the hole parallel. Because it can sit cockeyed means it probably will just to be awkward. I realise you don't have facilities though so you need to find someone who can do it for you.from the local club.

          #359441
          Ron Laden
          Participant
            @ronladen17547

            Well at long last I managed to make a start on the loco build, pics below..

            Pressed the oilite bearings into the 4 axle boxes and also the 2 axle bearings into the motor mounting plates.

            Used the bench drill to press the pinion gears onto the 4 motors. I knew the interference fit was not heavy and it didnt take too much effort to press them on. I used a 1/4 drive small extension in the drill chuck with the pinion below and the 1/4 drive end of a socket to support the other end of the motor shaft. Lined it all up with a square and it worked really well.

            I also managed to salvage the faulty wheels I purchased. I decided to modify the axles to fit so ran them up in the 3 jaw on the lathe and used strips of medium/fine emery cloth to reduce the diameter. Worked at it gradually until the wheel would slide on to within 2mm from the axle shoulder. I then pressed the wheels home using Loctite 368 retainer to make up the 2 thou difference at the outer face end of the wheel. I was trusting the axle shoulder would keep the wheels square to the axle and they have.

            More to press on with tomorrow.

            dsc05970_edited-1.jpg

            dsc05968_edited-2.jpg

            dsc05972_edited-1.jpg

            #359492
            Ron Laden
            Participant
              @ronladen17547

              A couple of pics of part of the chassis and the motor drive temporarily assembled, gives some idea of how it will look. I know the rear wheel is the wrong way around, needs pressing on to be the correct way. 

              dsc05984_edited-1.jpg

              dsc05985_edited-1.jpg

              Edited By Ron Laden on 26/06/2018 08:59:10

              #360737
              Ron Laden
              Participant
                @ronladen17547

                Is it possible to bond brass sheet to steel…?

                The steel axle boxes I had made for me are excellent except for the channel machined down each side which is oversize.

                I have some 1mm brass sheet which would take up the gap and also act as a rubbing strip. It shouldnt be heavily loaded as it will only see a sliding action as the axle moves with the suspension….well thats my theory at least.

                I could always make the strips wider and fit them on with copper rivets which I suppose would add a bit more detail.

                It would be very convenient though if there was something that will do the job, just wondered if anyone knows of anything.

                Thanks

                Ron

                #360741
                Roderick Jenkins
                Participant
                  @roderickjenkins93242

                  LBSC designed his Jenny Lind during material shortages. He specified strip brass as a liner to the steel horn blocks, retained with soft solder. I did this succesfuly on my Jenny Lind chassis. I used an acid flux (Fry's Fluxite). So, sticking a brass liner to your axleboxes with solder should work ok.

                  HTH,

                  Rod

                  #360757
                  Neil Wyatt
                  Moderator
                    @neilwyatt

                    I've seen a design for a crossheads with a phosphor bronze 'slipper' where your brass strip would be, kept in place by nothing more than a 'tab' at each end. You could try just bending up each end of your brass strips.

                    Neil

                    #360777
                    Ron Laden
                    Participant
                      @ronladen17547

                      Thanks Roderick and Neil.

                      Neil I have just found that Noggin End Metals supply a range of brass micro channel, one of which is 4mm x 4mm x 0.5mm. A piece of this down each side channel with a tab at each end should work just fine, I will get some on order.

                      Thanks for the idea.

                      Ron

                      #361037
                      Ron Laden
                      Participant
                        @ronladen17547

                        A bit further on, I have made up and fitted the 3 aluminium frame spreaders and also the 4 steel tie bars. The motors are mounted on the axle via the motor mount plate. Picture 2 shows a mount plate sitting above the tie bars ready for marking off. With the axle having suspension the motors move with the axle so the mounting plate cannot be hard fixed to any part of the frame. The tie bars act as anti rotation stops for the mounting plate but the plate will have cutouts/slots at each end to allow the plate to move up and down with the sprung axle, hope that makes sense..?

                        dsc05989_edited-1.jpg

                        dsc05990_edited-1.jpg

                        #361363
                        Ron Laden
                        Participant
                          @ronladen17547

                          My take on some simple spring locators, turned them up from 1/2" alu. They have a 10mm spigot up into the spring with just a tad of clearance. The other end of the spring locates into a 10mm deep hole in the axle box. Spring strength is guess work so hoping they are about right, If not I have a heavier set that I can fit.

                          dsc05991_edited-2.jpg

                          #361380
                          Jon Lawes
                          Participant
                            @jonlawes51698

                            Coming along nicely!

                            #361595
                            Ron Laden
                            Participant
                              @ronladen17547

                              Good News/Bad News

                              The good news: The drive is all fitted and works very well. I was aiming for 632 rpm at the wheel for a top speed of 6 mph. On the bench the max rpm is 825 but unloaded of course so hopefully about right when loaded.

                              dsc05993_edited-1.jpg

                              The bad news: Although the drive works well enough it is noisy and too noisy for my liking. I appreciate that I am standing directly over it and it is in the confines of a small workshop. Maybe loaded outside on a track it wouldnt be so bad or so noticeable. I am wondering if the motor mounting plate is too light, its currently 3mm steel . In hindsight (which is a wonderful thing) I am wondering if it would have been better in 6mm steel or 6mm alu. Plus the central axle bearing is an oilite, would that have been better as a ballrace.

                              I think I have 3 options: 1) live with it and see how it is on the track, though I am a bit reluctant to do that. 2) Un-press one of the wheels (each axle) and produce a heavier duty version of the motor plate, though this is only based on my assumption that a HD version would improve things. 3) Try and figure a way of adding something or a mod which would reduce the noise.

                              dsc05995_edited-1.jpg

                              Will have to give it some thought, though I am pleased with the working of the drive.

                              Ron

                              #361632
                              Neil Wyatt
                              Moderator
                                @neilwyatt

                                You may be able to reduce the noise by adjusting the gear clearance.

                                Neil

                                #361634
                                SillyOldDuffer
                                Moderator
                                  @sillyoldduffer
                                  Posted by Ron Laden on 11/07/2018 14:22:30:

                                  Good News/Bad News

                                  The good news: The drive is all fitted and works very well. I was aiming for 632 rpm at the wheel for a top speed of 6 mph. On the bench the max rpm is 825 but unloaded of course so hopefully about right when loaded.

                                  The bad news: Although the drive works well enough it is noisy and too noisy for my liking.

                                  Ron

                                  Don't panic, I think your test is worst case. The motors are running flat out (unloaded) with nothing to contain the racket . Also your bench could be acting as a sounding board – try putting a bit of carpet underneath the chassis. In any case probably considerably quieter outdoors at service speeds with the motors shielded by bodywork.

                                  Looks like the motor plate bears on the rods. If so may be worth putting some sort of cushion between the rods and motor plates to discourage sound conducting into the frame.

                                  I like the design and build.

                                  Dave

                                  #361687
                                  Ron Laden
                                  Participant
                                    @ronladen17547

                                    Hi Neil, I ran a folded piece of paper between the gears then slackened and re-tightened the fixing screws and it did help a bit, thanks for that.

                                    Hi Dave, I sat the chassis on a sheet of polystyrene and it did take away some of the noise. There is a 0.5mm gap between the end of the motor plates and the tie bars but I think you are correct in the noise been generated by the motor plates. If I hold onto the plates whilst running the noise does reduce a bit plus the sound changes. Also I think the plates are as you suggest conducting the sound into the frame, if I press each axle box the sound reduces a bit.

                                    Tomorrow I am going to run the drive for a couple of hours just to see if things bed in and if that makes any difference. I will run it outside on the garden table so I can see how it sounds outdoors without me standing over it.

                                    Thanks guys

                                    Ron

                                    #361774
                                    Jeff Dayman
                                    Participant
                                      @jeffdayman43397

                                      Hi Ron, You may find that ground level track may absorb quite a lot of noise into the rails, ties/sleepers, and the ballast. However, raised track may amplify noise, as will any hard tabletop. I'm not saying not to implement some of the noise reduction measures others have suggested, that is definitely advisable to do, I'm just suggesting the noise may not be as much of an issue when the engine is running on a track. As you said, the gears may get quieter as they "bed in" but be prepared to adjust the clearance again as the "bedding in" progresses – the gap will get slightly larger as the gears wear. I'd suggest using a few drops of oil on the gears during the "bedding in".

                                      Just asking – are your gears and pinions from the same manufacturer, and are they the same module or DP (that is, are the teeth the same geometry, and intended to run together)? For ideal mesh, the gears and pinions should be same module or DP.

                                      #361777
                                      Bazyle
                                      Participant
                                        @bazyle

                                        is the large gear metal or plastic? I think the commercial ones are usually plastic which will be a little quieter if that is the source of the noise. On the track there will be a lot of other noise from the carriage wheels.
                                        BTW you should think of a way of shielding those big holes in the motor cases from all dirt – you will find there is a lot of rust dust and other crap around on a regular track.

                                        #361781
                                        Ron Laden
                                        Participant
                                          @ronladen17547

                                          Hi Jeff,

                                          Thanks, yes the gears are from the same supplier Bearing Boys Ltd (excellent service). Both the pinion and the spur are MOD1 so the mesh should be good. The pinion is steel and the large spur is plastic and I have given them a light coat of lithium based grease. I dont know what the norm is for setting up gears but I used a thin piece of paper which measured 0.004" and placed that between the gears when securing the motor screws. I just wanted to make certain that I didnt have the gears too heavily meshed. The track I will be running on is a raised one so it will be interesting to find how it sounds.

                                          Hi Bazyle,

                                          The large gear is plastic and as I mentioned to Jeff I have lightly greased the gears with lithium grease but that sounds as if it is not a good idea if there is a lot of muck that could be picked up. The track I will be running on is raised, I,m guessing that it is probably a bit cleaner than ground level but I dont know. I can make a cover to shield the motors but allow a small gap to allow them some airflow.

                                          Ron

                                          #361847
                                          Ron Laden
                                          Participant
                                            @ronladen17547

                                            I set the chassis up on the garden table and ran it for a couple of hours this afternoon to bed things in. It certainly didnt seem as noisy outside of the shed out in the open. I also thought it a bit quieter after the couple of hours running but that could have been wishful thinking on my part…lol.

                                            I am going to carry on with it as is and see how it turns out when loaded and running on a track. When I say its noisy, its not horrendous, its just a bit more "clunky sounding" than I expected yet the drive train run smoothly enough.

                                            Ron

                                            #365025
                                            Ron Laden
                                            Participant
                                              @ronladen17547

                                              Well, not that far from having a working rolling chassis, the chassis and parts have been primed and painted and re-assembled. I mentioned previously that the drive assembly was noisy so I carried out a couple of mods. The motor plates run on the axles and they were mounted via a 16mm long oilite bearing, I have doubled the length of the bearing to 30mm to offer more support. I have also added a nylon guide roller at each end of the motor plate to prevent any metal to metal contact when the plate moves vertically with the axle suspension.

                                              The mods have certainly reduced the noise and it certainly sounds better than it did. I also noticed that when the drive is running a little finger pressure at each end of the motor plate improves it further. I am thinking of adding an extension spring at each end of the motor plate connected between the top of the plate and the underside of the chassis top plate. I,m hoping this will load the plate and have the same result as some finger pressure does but we will see..?

                                              As you can tell a lot of this is trial and error and working it out as I go but one thing is for certain, it is FUN.

                                              Pictures below:

                                              dsc06005_edited-1.jpg

                                              A picture of the nylon guide roller.

                                              dsc06006_edited-1.jpg

                                              #365036
                                              Neil Wyatt
                                              Moderator
                                                @neilwyatt

                                                Coming along nicely Ron!

                                                #365054
                                                Ron Laden
                                                Participant
                                                  @ronladen17547

                                                  Thanks Neil

                                                  I must admit I am enjoying it.

                                                  Ron

                                                  #365648
                                                  Ron Laden
                                                  Participant
                                                    @ronladen17547

                                                    Chassis top plate (3mm steel) added as well as the front and rear plates again in 3mm steel. Need to turn up some buffers and add a front and rear clevis type coupling as well as a bit of detail for the plates and chassis side frames.

                                                    It will then be the body to build, I,ve decided on 6mm MDF for the main body parts and yes it will be sealed, primed and painted so quite weather proof. The beauty of MDF is the sheets are generally very flat and the surface finish is very good so its not too difficult to produce a good finish.

                                                    I have decided to go with a class 08 shunter type body though as I mentioned before this is obviously not a scale loco but a look alike. Our two great grand daughters for whom I am building the loco keep mentioning a Thomas the Tank face on the front and one of them even suggested the loco should be pink…surprise

                                                    Regards

                                                    Ron

                                                    dsc06032_edited-1.jpg

                                                    #365651
                                                    Journeyman
                                                    Participant
                                                      @journeyman

                                                      Yeah! Go with PINK. If Force India can do it for their F1 car why not for a nice little shunter. Just add some suitable "go faster" decalscheeky

                                                      John

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