4 jaw chuck axial allignment

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4 jaw chuck axial allignment

Home Forums Workshop Techniques 4 jaw chuck axial allignment

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  • #424991
    Paul Lousick
    Participant
      @paullousick59116

      Martin,

      It is very easy to fix your chuck. As you have previously said " Checking against a backlit straight edge was utterly disheartening – some jaws were convex, some hollowed, others had uneven teeth (serrated jaws). A new chuck!!"

      If its new, take it back for a replacement or a refund.

      .Paul.

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      #424994
      Ian P
      Participant
        @ianp
        Posted by Pete Rimmer on 19/08/2019 08:28:09:

        What are you using as a gauge? Simply touching two opposing jaws together and observing the light gap should tell you if they are parallel or not.

        Two jaws might pass that test and be parallel to a 1 micron in 10 meters, but they may not be parallel to the lathe axis!sad

        Apart from using the toolpost grinder method to true up the jaws, consider doing each jaw individually with a diamond file.

        I have dramatically improved two different SC three jar chuck using little more than a diamond file and a bright light source. Since your chuck has independent jaws it would only be a few minutes work to touch up each jaw tip,.

        Start off by checking each jaw (out of the chuck) with a set square, that will show any gross error which a diamond file will quickly correct. Once all the jaws are somewhere near they can be checked in the clamped position with a suitable diameter piece of ground test bar or even a length of silver steel.

        Its a bit fiddly but an additional check you can do is to wrap a single layer of aluminium cooking foil around the test bar than tighten the jaws on it. You can then see if the whole length of the jaw tip is applying equal pressure.

        Ian P

        #425024
        Martin of Wick
        Participant
          @martinofwick

          This is a 4in chuck that I hadn't used for precision work until now because the 3 jaw that came with the minilathe was so good! On that basis I wasn't expecting problems. Come the day I needed an accurate set up there was a wailing and a gnashing of teeth…..Having not ever experienced problems with a 4 jaw chuck before, until someone pointed out it might be an issue with the chuck I had assumed it was some fundamental operator error!

          Eventually checking the jaw mating surfaces alignment with the chuck body when tightened on a short round of silver steel, using a square off the back of the chuck shows the following.

          • short jaw surface looks reasonably normal and parallel to the square – caveat as it is only a short length and quite heavily serrated. – so no problem with one side of jaws
          • Long jaw surface – two are quite severely and obviously not parallel – around 20 thou out! the other 2 are also not parallel but to a lesser extent. In addition, by varying amounts, the serrated teeth do not form an even surface when viewed against a straight edge.
          • the two worst jaws are roughly parallel to each other but not to the chuck body
          • the other two effectively create a bell mouth.

          'Go figure' as they say….

          It would appear that the long surface of the jaws were not ground originally parallel and there has been some bodged attempt to correct the problem at the factory (possibly explaining why the clamping surfaces are much wider than expected).

          The result is it is almost impossible to get an acceptable axial setting for longer work using the jaws with the long edge holding the work.

          In other respects, the chuck is not to bad, useable with the jaws reversed, the axial surface of the jaws is true and the jaw fit in the slots good. with smooth movement.

          I will attempt a regrind, but first I will need to make some sort of height adjustable fixture to hold a rotary tool in the toolpost – no slotted table on the CML otherwise I could use a vertical slide.

          The approach I would use based on a posting above is to lightly clamp up a washer in the gap between the rearmost two teeth. with the chuck stationary and spindle locked, grind all the forward teeth of the jaw to something resembling an even height and hopefully parallel to the lathe axis, repeat for other jaws.

          Then go back in with the grinder to grind down the tooth that was behind the washer to below the level of the newly ground jaw surface so it will not impact clamping geometry. This may mean that the minimum stock size that is chuckable increases from 6mm to about 8mm, but I don't think that is going to be a particular issue.

          I would like to think the vendor might offer to replace it, but it has been over 18 months since purchased – moral here is if you get some new stuff give it a good teardown and test the day you get it!

          #425072
          Peter Tucker
          Participant
            @petertucker86088

            Hi Martin,

            The vendor should replace it as "not fit for purpose".

            Peter.

            #425099
            John P
            Participant
              @johnp77052

              Posted by Martin of Wick 19/08/2019 14:09:28

              The approach I would use based on a posting above is to
              lightly clamp up a washer in the gap between the rearmost two teeth. with
              the chuck stationary and spindle locked, grind all the forward teeth of the jaw
              to something resembling an even height and hopefully
              parallel to the lathe axis, repeat for other jaws.

              Martin

              The jaw needs to be restrained towards the front edge so when the chuck
              is tightened up the jaws will grip along the length.If you trap the jaws at the rear
              there is the possibility that when the jaws grip the front edge will not be so secure
              effectively slightly bellmouthed.
              The photo here uses a washer and a piece of wire to apply some tension to
              the front of the jaw ,this is all that is all that is needed to do this on this 80 mm
              chuck .It would be fairly easy to make a more substantial clip from more
              solid material if required.
              The washer is cut to clear the jaw edge ,the other jaws are retracted clear
              the chuck key is used to oscillate the jaw to and fro past the grinding wheel.

              4 jaw grind.jpg

              John

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