4″ Foster beginner’s build

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

4″ Foster beginner’s build

This topic has 14 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 1 March 2014 at 14:50 by michael cole.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

Author

Posts
27 February 2014 at 20:02 #145392
Dan Jones
Participant
@danjones77555
Hi everyone,

I've purchased a set of drawings for Live Steam Model's 4" Foster single cylinder agricultural engine. I have finished off model that are 3" and smaller but this is to be my first 4" build and my first full engine build.

I'm wondering if there is anyone who knows what components I should start first and what order the engine should be built in, for example a ground-up build or wheels then boiler type of build.

If anyone can help I would be really grateful.

Thanks, Dan.
Advert

27 February 2014 at 20:02 #2790
Dan Jones
Participant
@danjones77555
27 February 2014 at 20:09 #145394
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Most people tend to start with the front end – front wheels then hornplates, shafts and the rear wheels and then move onto cylinder and motion followed by tender and plumbing

Get your boiler on order soon as most of the suppliers have about a 12month lead in, you won't be needing it for the front end.

Also very importand, read the long list of drawing errors here before you buy or cut any materails

You may also want to join Traction Talk forum, there are several Foster owners & builders there.

J

Edited By JasonB on 27/02/2014 20:10:16
27 February 2014 at 20:16 #145396
Dan Jones
Participant
@danjones77555
I've heard that the front end is generally the place builders start. Do you know if LSM supplies any laser cut parts like hornplates, tender plates, spokes etc?

Thanks, Dan.
27 February 2014 at 20:16 #145397
GarryC
Participant
@garryc
Hi Dan

Are you going to be uploading progress of your build anywhere on line? I would like to follow it if you are. On here would be great of course….

Thanks.

Regards

Allan.
27 February 2014 at 20:21 #145398
Dan Jones
Participant
@danjones77555
Allan

I can post build progress on here if people would like to see it. But beware, I have a habit of making slow progress!

Thanks, Dan.
27 February 2014 at 20:39 #145402
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Yes they do a lot of lazer cut parts, not sure how they work out cost wise compared with doing your own drawings and getting your local cutters to do it.

Parts list

Does not matter how slow you are we still like to see pictures
27 February 2014 at 20:40 #145403
GarryC
Participant
@garryc
Hi Dan

I would love to see it on here I'm sure others would as well. Timescale no problem of course. As many pics and descriptions of the processes and machining setups as possible would be brilliant, better still if you can relate them to the drawings – even seemingly the most basic things and right from the start.. Sorry I'm asking way too much!

I'll keep my fingers crossed and be pleased to see whatever!

Cheers.

Allan.
27 February 2014 at 21:53 #145416
Martin Cottrell
Participant
@martincottrell21329
Hi Dan,

I am also about to start the daunting task of a full Traction Engine build. Mine is a 4" Little Samson. I am in the process of re organising my garage into a workshop and once that is done I shall start on the engine. I will probably be posting some pics on here as progress is made and will definitely be posting questions when my skill level falls short of the required level!

I anticipate that the build will probably take me 3-4 years so maybe we can have a race to the first steam-up!

Regards, Martin.
27 February 2014 at 21:54 #145418
Martin Cottrell
Participant
@martincottrell21329
Removed duplicate posting!

Edited By Martin Cottrell on 27/02/2014 21:55:34
28 February 2014 at 08:46 #145449
pauljames
Participant
@pauljanes79128
Hi Dan,

I am building a 6" Ruston Proctor SD. Probably about the same size as your 4" Foster. Not being a machinist, I was advised by one to start at the front wheels and axle. Not too hard to accomplish, you learn a lot of skills and soon have something to to be proud of. Don't just just go to LSM for laser cut parts. Shop around and you may get a better price. I live in Australia and quotes for plates for my boiler and horn plates ranged from $600 to over $1000. Not everything has to be laser cut. (normally costs more than oxy cutting). Laser cut tolerance can be within 0.3mm but oxy profile cutting within 1-2mm.( Some of my photos are on Traction Talk in the model section).

P.S. Double check all of the dimensions on the drawings. A lot of mine are wrong.

Good luck, Paul
28 February 2014 at 14:50 #145502
Chris Gunn
Participant
@chrisgunn36534
I would start with all the wheels if you have the castings, all can be machined together, all similar parts, then build the wheels, again common methods to front and rear, then make the front end, then rear axle parts. when you get the boiler make yourself a trolley with castors to support the engine, arrange it so the wheels will be a few inches off the ground, then you can move it around to work on, it will be at a better working height, and when you get to the motion etc, you can turn the engine over, rotate the wheels, check gearing and so on. when the time comes you can run the complete drive train to test. As Paul says shop around for laser cut parts, seems to be overcapacity where I live, and good prices seem possible.

Chris Gunn
1 March 2014 at 13:24 #145616
Dan Jones
Participant
@danjones77555
Hi guys

I'll try and keep you all posted with pictures and notes of the build. I think that the order of the build will be front end first and get a boiler on order.

I've been reading through the list of drawing errors and joint breaking studs for the covers on the cylinder block seem to be a trending topic. I have noticed the provision for these holes on other models and I have a couple of questions about them. How do these studs work? Are the holes for the studs in the covers threaded or drilled clear?

Many thanks, Dan.
1 March 2014 at 13:32 #145617
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
All the main stud holes are drilled clearance size through the cover, the ones to remove the covers are drilled and tapped but the hole does not extend into the cylinder block.

In use you undo all the nuts and remove them and then screw a couple of bolts into the tapped holes, as they contact the block they will jack it away from the surface.

J

Edited By JasonB on 01/03/2014 13:33:34
1 March 2014 at 14:50 #145620
michael cole
Participant
@michaelcole91146
Hi Dan and Martin

Good to hear of more traction engine builds. I am also buidling a 4 inch Little Samson. Taken me about 4 years so far with a least 1 more to go. There are some very good build series of the Little Samson on TractionTalk forum.

Mike
Author

Posts