That was the reason I went for the D5S MIni. All the frame is steel and it's pretty solid. The Z axis uses a proper 16mm ballscrew.
The type using threaded rods etc. must shake like a jelly when they are printing and there is no way you are going to get accurately aligned layers which is critical for good surface finishes. I'm not convinced about the printers that use thin plastic and plywood for the frames either, although the Ultimakers seem pretty good, maybe the best of the 'hobby' type printers actually but not the cheapest by a long way.
As mentioned before, my Mini was let down by poor quality rods and bearings but it didn't cost much to sort that. out. Originally, the end of the nozzle could rock from side to side by something like 0.5mm.
Whilst I agree that you need to spend a lot of time with the settings to get the best results, if the mechanics of the machine are not accurate enough, the results will still be substandard.
If I had the time I would have built one from scratch but I've just got too many other things on at the moment. For me it was quicker to buy a reasonable printer ready built and modify it if necessary.
John
Edited By John Baguley on 19/01/2015 12:38:02
Edited By John Baguley on 19/01/2015 12:39:04