3D Printer Test Piece

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

I shall be acquiring a Polysher in a month or so and will report back when I have tested, it's a vapour smoothing chamber – I'll print in black ABS…

[charadamParticipant @charadam]

Neil,

I want, for the moment, to print from online libraries (Thingiverse et al) while I learn a CAD system so I can take things further.

For now, I need to understand why the printer will only read/build the x3g files on the supplied SD card and will not read the x3g files I have stored on the card.

Thanks in advance.

Charles

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by charadam on 04/07/2017 10:41:08:

I want, for the moment, to print from online libraries (Thingiverse et al) while I learn a CAD system so I can take things further.

For now, I need to understand why the printer will only read/build the x3g files on the supplied SD card and will not read the x3g files I have stored on the card.

Aside from fussy SD cards and micro-sd adapters (which have caused me no end of grief) you need to make sure your slicer program (e.g. Cura, Slic3r, Print Studio) has the correct start and finish code for your printer.

What program are you using to go from STL to x3g?

Neil

[Engine BuilderParticipant @enginebuilder]

Some nice printing here used as a pattern for casting.

https://youtu.be/LMn4ETyLpDc

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Andy Carruthers on 04/07/2017 09:42:10:

I shall be acquiring a Polysher in a month or so and will report back when I have tested, it's a vapour smoothing chamber – I'll print in black ABS…

That looks interesting, but doesn't it only work with their filament, so you can use alcohol as a smoother?

Neil

[charadamParticipant @charadam]

All I did was download x3g files from http://www.yeggi.com/q/x3g+file/3/ on to the SD card.

Obviously I am missing something.

Incidentally, I am trying to print from the SD card and have not connected the printer to a pc yet.

Told you I was a numpty!

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 04/07/2017 11:27:25:

Posted by Andy Carruthers on 04/07/2017 09:42:10:

I shall be acquiring a Polysher in a month or so and will report back when I have tested, it's a vapour smoothing chamber – I'll print in black ABS…

That looks interesting, but doesn't it only work with their filament, so you can use alcohol as a smoother?

Neil

Yes, though the same principle applies using Acetone vapour smoothing – I have a rice cooker to play with too

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by charadam on 04/07/2017 12:02:17:

All I did was download x3g files from http://www.yeggi.com/q/x3g+file/3/ on to the SD card.

Obviously I am missing something.

Incidentally, I am trying to print from the SD card and have not connected the printer to a pc yet.

Told you I was a numpty!

Ah. There are three steps to making a 3D print.

First, the object is designed in some form of 3D design program, I use Turbocad but there are zillions of alternatives with a wide range of file formats.

Second, you (normally) save the object as an .STL or .OBJ file, these are straightforward formats that are good for defining a 3D object but are not particularly easy to edit. These are the sort of files you would normally download froma site like Thingiverse or Yeggi. They are like teh 3D equivalent of a PDF – a format that everyone agrees on so ideal for exchanging objects.

Third , you need to take the object and turn it into a gcode instructions for your printer. There are various 'flavours' of 3D printer gcode files, mine using 'Marlin' which is helpfully saved with the suffix .GCODE

Your printer uses the .X3G gcode, but there's a 'gotcha'. Each printer normally normally needs a short bit of custom gcode at the beginning and end of the file to set it up, it also needs the gcode to be tuned to suit the printer (e.g. these of the bed, the step size in each axis, whether it has a heated bed etc.), the object (the layer thickness, fill percentage and style, supports etc.) and the filament (extruder temperature, need for cooling fan, filament diameter etc.)

That means a gcode file (of any flavour) is unlikely to work unless it is for a printer the same as yours, that's why files supplied with your printer work, but others may not.

To print third part designs, you should have a slicing program supplied with your printer that will take OBJ and STL files. It should have a profile for your printer built in or easily loaded to allow it to produce suitable X3G files. These default settings should work, although you will certainly end up tweaking settings to get the best results.

You may also find that other slicing programs like Cura or Slic3r have suitable profiles for your printer or similar ones you can adapt to suit it. When you get experienced, you can fill in your printer settings from scratch – this takes a fair bit of effort!

So in summary, for a quick start, download STL or OBJ files of objects you want to print, then 'slice' them in the program supplied with your printer.

Neil

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

I'm about 90% of the way of setting up my printer,(Kosselmini clone, running on Arduino mega 2560 and Marlin program) all the firmware has finally been installed, I've nearly mastered the controls for pronterface and set up the Arduino to run the software.

At the moment i'm trying to learn using freecad,​ but it's a little clunky to find things, compared to the ancient prodesktop CAD I learnt at school where you established workplanes and so on to build up a component. Is there any other good free CAD software someone can recommend?

Michael W

[charadamParticipant @charadam]

Neil,

Clarity at last.

I actually tried hard for hours to find out what you have made clear in half a page of A4.

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to put me on the right path.

Charles

[Ian Skeldon 2Participant @ianskeldon2]

Mmmm seems I have stumbled on this post at a very opportune moment. I was given use of a 3d printer (up plus 2) some PLA fillament and a trial version of solid works.

Loved using solid works but of course the trial licence has expired and when I looked into buying I realised I didn't have enough kidneys to sell in order to buy it. During that period I successfully drew a couple of things, notice I said Drew, the drawings were saved as STL files in solid works. The printer was calibrated according to the instructions and then again logically so that it did actually work, it saw the file and started to print it, I was both excited and intrigued, well for a few minutes anyway. Then I thought I saw something, not sure what but something sort of not right. Tracked it down to the table moving from time to time almost as if the nozzel was hitting it or dragging it. Anyway printing aborted, I reported back my lack of success to the nice chap that borrowed me the printer and explained what I thought was happening.

Yes he said, we (him and his colleagues at work) had tried for hours but had the same results. Turnsd out it was out of warrenty before they got round to using it so now it was an expensive almost brilliant printer.

Sorry for going on but what I would like to know are;

1 Is sketch up any good?

2 If not, what would be recommended, bearing in mind that it will need to have good or even great tuitions available.

3 Is there such a thing as a cheap(ish) printer suitable for someone wanting to increase their skills/knowledge/ability.

Sorry if this all seems a bit much to ask but I was nearly there (I think ).

Thanks,

Ian

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Posted by Michael-w on 04/07/2017 19:04:50:

At the moment i'm trying to learn using freecad,​ but it's a little clunky to find things, compared to the ancient prodesktop CAD I learnt at school where you established workplanes and so on to build up a component. Is there any other good free CAD software someone can recommend?

Michael W

Try Fusion 360, which is usually totally free for home use. It works in much the same way you described Prodesktop CAD as working.

TurboCAD (which I've used for many years) is capable, but rather cumbersome in comparison. I now use TurboCAD exclusively for 2D drawings, and Fusion for all my 3D work.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Ian Skeldon 2 on 04/07/2017 20:47:32:

Mmmm seems I have stumbled on this post at a very opportune moment. I was given use of a 3d printer (up plus 2) some PLA fillament and a trial version of solid works.

Loved using solid works but of course the trial licence has expired and when I looked into buying I realised I didn't have enough kidneys to sell in order to buy it. During that period I successfully drew a couple of things, notice I said Drew, the drawings were saved as STL files in solid works. The printer was calibrated according to the instructions and then again logically so that it did actually work, it saw the file and started to print it, I was both excited and intrigued, well for a few minutes anyway. Then I thought I saw something, not sure what but something sort of not right. Tracked it down to the table moving from time to time almost as if the nozzel was hitting it or dragging it. Anyway printing aborted, I reported back my lack of success to the nice chap that borrowed me the printer and explained what I thought was happening.

Yes he said, we (him and his colleagues at work) had tried for hours but had the same results. Turnsd out it was out of warrenty before they got round to using it so now it was an expensive almost brilliant printer.

Sorry for going on but what I would like to know are;

1 Is sketch up any good?

2 If not, what would be recommended, bearing in mind that it will need to have good or even great tuitions available.

3 Is there such a thing as a cheap(ish) printer suitable for someone wanting to increase their skills/knowledge/ability.

Sorry if this all seems a bit much to ask but I was nearly there (I think ).

Thanks,

Ian

It may simply be an intermittent connection on one of the axis steppers, or it may be possible to increase the current for the stepper on the errant axis.

As steppers, heaters, send stop switches etc. are all pretty generic whatever the mechanical arrangement the cheapest solution for you might be to buy a RAMPS controller to replace the UP one and work out all the directions/polarities/step rates.

Someone has probably done it already but here is how someone did it to a DaVinci.

Otherwise, go for a Prusa kit?

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

I use TinkerCad which is very easy to get to grips with, primarily for geometric shapes. I'm looking for a "better" 3D modeling tool and I need to upskill too

I started out using Sketch but hit problems with exported STL files via 3rd party plug-in – some meshes were incomplete resulting in failed prints. Netfabb is also a brilliant tool particularly for fixing mesh issues but licensing has changed fairly recently so has become very expensive

Something else to consider is bed adhesion – a heated bed or various tapes work as does a wash of dissolved ABS in Acetone

Incidentally, ABS parts can be welded using Acetone

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

I had a real struggle with ABS. After a few layers on an unheated (or insufficiently heated) bed, it would want to start to curl up and off the table at the edges. That was with Kapton tape and a heated bed on the Ultimaker 2. Sort of got there in the end but it was much fussier than with PLA.

Lots of Pootube videos on acetone smoothing but I get nervous at the thought of boiling acetone….

Murray

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by Gary Wooding on 05/07/2017 07:32:50:

Posted by Michael-w on 04/07/2017 19:04:50:

At the moment i'm trying to learn using freecad,​ but it's a little clunky to find things, compared to the ancient prodesktop CAD I learnt at school where you established workplanes and so on to build up a component. Is there any other good free CAD software someone can recommend?

Michael W

Try Fusion 360, which is usually totally free for home use. It works in much the same way you described Prodesktop CAD as working.

TurboCAD (which I've used for many years) is capable, but rather cumbersome in comparison. I now use TurboCAD exclusively for 2D drawings, and Fusion for all my 3D work.

Thanks, i'll let you know how I get on with it.

The Prodesktop was very simple and really had, when I think back on it, a very good way of cataloguing all the different things you can do with it. It isn't that freecad doesn't provide these things, it's just they make it more annoying to find.

Michael W

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Andy Carruthers on 05/07/2017 10:19:25:

I use TinkerCad which is very easy to get to grips with, primarily for geometric shapes. I'm looking for a "better" 3D modeling tool and I need to upskill too

Cura seems to be very effective at repairing broken meshes.

There's also a microsoft site where you can upload a broken file and download it as a repaired one.

Neil

[Ian Skeldon 2Participant @ianskeldon2]

Thank you chaps. now got 30 days to get to grips with fusion 360, will let you know how I get on in a few weeks time, sooner if I make any breakthroughs.

Ian

[Cyril BonnettParticipant @cyrilbonnett24790]

Be careful when using Acetone, I have used it and MEK for repairing fairing and bumpers in the past.

Both are very flammable, use in VERY well ventilated areas and wear protection.

Both carry the following warnings!

DANGER! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR. VAPOR MAY CAUSE FLASH FIRE. HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF INHALED OR ABSORBED THROUGH SKIN. AFFECTS CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM. CAUSES IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES AND RESPIRATORY TRACT.

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Posted by Ian Skeldon 2 on 05/07/2017 21:13:52:

Thank you chaps. now got 30 days to get to grips with fusion 360, will let you know how I get on in a few weeks time, sooner if I make any breakthroughs.

I found an interesting Youtube channel for learning Fusion. Here's a sample. It takes you step-by-step through creating small bite-sized 3D drawings.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Acetone is much safer than MEK. Think nail varnish remover, but please don't go drinking it.

Neil

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

CEL Robox finest print setting straight from the bed

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Andy Carruthers on 15/07/2017 18:24:48:

CEL Robox finest print setting straight from the bed

Benchy should print without support, should be much cleaner done without it.

Neil

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Here you go!

Force of habit using support material – too many failed prints otherwise

[Neil LickfoldParticipant @neillickfold44316]

My son does test pieces to establish the shrinkage is xyz, then makes the correction to the model and away they go. Sometimes they in ways that don't seem the way initially. They do this to get the unseen side is often the side that is down and has support material etc, the seen side is the top face or the seen side. The finished products look fairy good. They use an UPbox printer and have made their own material feeder, it keeps track of how much filament is used and can see before they print if there is enough filament or not.

Neil

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