3 cyl Pip engine

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3 cyl Pip engine

This topic has 166 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 29 March 2019 at 20:15 by Roy Garden.

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20 January 2019 at 17:03 #392074
Ian Skeldon 2
Participant
@ianskeldon2
David I bow to your ingenuity and machining skills, not to mention your patience.

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 20/01/2019 17:04:33
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21 January 2019 at 20:01 #392279
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Posted by Ian Skeldon 2 on 20/01/2019 17:03:32:

David I bow to your ingenuity and machining skills,

Please don't , I really am a novice when it comes to Engineering.

The 'PIP' plans come with substantial build notes which explain each step of the build , I am just good at following instructions.
21 January 2019 at 20:34 #392289
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Master rod total weight 100% 6.86g

Master rod upper half 43% 2.95g

Master rod lower half 57% 3.91g

2 Slave rods total 100% 4.49g

2 Slave rods upper half 50% 2.245g

2 Slave rods lower half 50% 2.245g

Reciprocating parts

3 Pistons 12.42g

6 Piston rings 1.17g

3 Wrist pins 6.22g

3 Small end bearing 1.97g

1 Master rod upper half 2.95g

2 Slave rods upper half 2.245g

Total Reciprocating parts [ 26.975 ]

Rotating parts

1 Big end bearing 4.08g

2 Knuckle pins 2.59g

2 Small end bearings 1.51g

1 Master rod lower half 3.91g

2 Slave rods lower half 2.245g

Total Rotating parts [ 14.335 ]
21 January 2019 at 20:34 #392290
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Weight to be balanced

1/2 x reciprocating parts 13.378g

1 x rotating parts 14.335g

Total to be balanced 27.822g
21 January 2019 at 20:36 #392291
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
I then turned a bob weight to 27.82 grams
21 January 2019 at 20:39 #392292
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
With the bob weight placed on the crank pin the counterweight falls to the bottom

as it is heavier

I then slowly turned down the counterweight testing between cuts until the crank

can be placed in any position balanced.
23 January 2019 at 21:26 #392668
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
I am now ready to build up the engine.

First I fit the 'ring gear' held by 8 M2 screws
23 January 2019 at 21:27 #392669
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
I turned an Alloy tube to hold the camshaft in place
23 January 2019 at 21:28 #392670
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
This tube is pushed up through the bottom bearing and the cam is dropped in lining

up the gears with the centre punch marks which are top / bottom dead centre
23 January 2019 at 21:30 #392673
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
The Cam followers in their bushes are pressed into place from the outside.
23 January 2019 at 21:31 #392674
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
The second main bearing plus its carrier is then pressed into place, this will

be held in place by three of the cylinder mounting bolts.

I cannot now see the camshaft so I have run some sticky tape around the outside

of the cam followers so they press against the cam and hold it steady.
23 January 2019 at 21:32 #392675
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
The crankshaft can now be placed into the end of the alloy tube and slowly pushed

through so the tube is replaced by the crank. The crank pin is held at TDC and hopefully

it will engage with the cam still held at TDC by the taped followers.
23 January 2019 at 21:33 #392676
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Master con rod is placed onto the crank pin and the big end bearing screwed into place.
23 January 2019 at 21:34 #392677
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Piston is then fixed by the gudgeon pin and the rings carefully fitted
23 January 2019 at 21:35 #392678
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Broken rings already , good job I made spares
23 January 2019 at 21:35 #392679
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
24 January 2019 at 00:13 #392702
mal webber
Participant
@malwebber91786
Out standing work David, something I would like to achieve with a lot more experience.

Mal.

Edited By mal webber on 24/01/2019 00:28:57

Edited By mal webber on 24/01/2019 00:29:38
24 January 2019 at 19:35 #392804
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Thanks Mal, I found the best way to gain experience is to buy some plans and jump in at the deep end.
24 January 2019 at 19:40 #392805
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
A cylinder can now be slid over the piston and held by a 8 M2 screws,

The slave rods are now connected to the master rod. You can see the slave

pins line up with cut outs in the main bearing so the bearing cannot undo.
24 January 2019 at 19:41 #392806
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Push rods now fitted, they are

simply stainless rod/wire cut to length and round the ends.
24 January 2019 at 19:42 #392807
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Inlet / Exhaust manifolds.

A piece of brass bar is milled to the shape needed then two m2 mounting holes

are drilled down the length of the bar.
24 January 2019 at 19:43 #392808
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Next a slitting saw is used to cut each manifold mounting off at 1/8'' thickness.
24 January 2019 at 19:44 #392809
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
I milled a slot into a piece of scrap alloy to hold each mount while I milled

a m6 hole through the centre at 15 degrees to match the cylinder head ports.
24 January 2019 at 19:45 #392810
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Some lengths of 6mm copper pipe are cut and one end crimped shut.

The pipes are then filled with water and placed into the freezer for a

few hours.
24 January 2019 at 19:46 #392811
David K
Participant
@davidk77137
Once frozen the pipes are bent to shape over a former held in a chuck.

The exhausts bent ok but the tighter inlet bends were a problem so instead

of frozen water I filled them using a glue gun and let the glue harden.

Once bent I heated the pipes and pushed the glue out.
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