3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

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3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Home Forums Work In Progress and completed items 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Viewing 25 posts - 176 through 200 (of 303 total)
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  • #262671
    Ryan Norton
    Participant
      @ryannorton40317

      Hi John

      Mass, A Tich will weigh more in the UK than in South Africa…cheeky

      So 20 pounds is roughly 9 kg and i'm guessing that the tanks and boiler would probably hold about two litres of water, giving another 2 kg.

      So 11 kg as an estimate?

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      #263334
      Ryan Norton
      Participant
        @ryannorton40317

        Right, so I have finally had some time to upload all my photos of the rest of my work in June.

        Whilst I was mounting the cylinders, I took some photos of the loco and her bits, so here they are for interest sake.

        mock up 005.jpg

        mock up 006.jpg

        mock up 007.jpg

        mock up 008.jpg

        mock up 009.jpg

        mock up 010.jpg

        mock up 011.jpg

        mock up 012.jpg

        mock up 013.jpg

        mock up 014.jpg

        mock up 015.jpg

        mock up 016.jpg

        mock up 017.jpg

        mock up 018.jpg

        mock up 019.jpg

        mock up 020.jpg

        mock up 021.jpg

        mock up 022.jpg

        I am still not happy with the springs I have made as seen above and will probably make some heavier springs with a smaller pitch giving more coils.

        #263335
        Ryan Norton
        Participant
          @ryannorton40317

          So on to the cylinder mounting…

          I first had to open out the holes in the frames to the correct size. This was not done originally as I was unsure how I was going to mount the cylinders.

          cylinder mounting 001.jpg

          The frames were placed onto parallels on the mill bed and the holes opened out.

          cylinder mounting 002.jpg

          cylinder mounting 003.jpg

          A long drill was then used to poke between the frames and make a small countersink on the cylinder mounting face.

          cylinder mounting 004.jpg

          cylinder mounting 005.jpg

          cylinder mounting 006.jpg

          The cylinder was mounted on the frame with the left crank at back dead center and the connecting rod directly in line with the piston rod. LBSC describes this procedure fairly well so it turned out O.K.

          cylinder mounting 007.jpg

          I used a hand held power drill at a slow speed to create the countersinks on the cylinder mounting face (not shown).

          cylinder mounting 008.jpg

          cylinder mounting 009.jpg

          The countersinks were drilled out and tapped M3. Following this, both cylinders were mounted onto the frames.

          vassem 001.jpg

          vassem 002.jpg

          vassem 003.jpg

          vassem 004.jpg

          vassem 005.jpg

          vassem 006.jpg

          vassem 007.jpg

          vassem 008.jpg

          vassem 009.jpg

          I am happy with the result!

          #263337
          SillyOldDuffer
          Moderator
            @sillyoldduffer
            Posted by Ryan Norton on 28/10/2016 08:35:41:

            I am happy with the result!

            Me too Ryan! And many thanks for taking the time to document the build for us. Great stuff.

            Dave

            #263338
            Ryan Norton
            Participant
              @ryannorton40317

              I have also just moved house so here is my new work space. I still need to move things around and organise all my tools, but I could not wait to get started again on TICH.

              cylinder mounting 010.jpg

              This last weekend a turned the LHS piston and the fit is great. If I blow into the steam chest and actuate the valve, the piston moves accordingly which is very cool.

              I will post some photos of the piston and piston rods etc. (You can see the RHS piston blank in the pic above).

              cylinder mounting 011.jpg

              cylinder mounting 012.jpg

              #263348
              Neil Wyatt
              Moderator
                @neilwyatt

                I always like seeing how people can achieve a great standard of work, just by working steadily and thoughtfully.

                Neil

                #263905
                Ryan Norton
                Participant
                  @ryannorton40317

                  I have made a start on the gear link frame fabrication. The jig works a charm.

                  Here are the pics thus far.

                  gear link frame 001.jpg

                  gear link frame 002.jpg

                  gear link frame 003.jpg

                  I still need to cut and file the small square block for the attachment to the guide bar. This will then be held in place by two steel bars and two pieces of threaded rod as can be seen in my previous post of the 3D model.

                  #264654
                  Ryan Norton
                  Participant
                    @ryannorton40317

                    I have completed the jig, I just need a 4mm washer for the larger side and then I can braze the whole lot together.

                    gear link frame 004.jpg

                    I have used the rectangular washer as a stop for the small block to ensure that it is lined up properly. The pic above shows it moved out of the way for brazing purposes.

                    gear link frame 005.jpg

                    I will obviously shift the threaded rod portion to the left to keep it clear of the silver solder. This was just a quick mock up.

                    gear link frame 006.jpg

                    gear link frame 007.jpg

                    gear link frame 008.jpg

                    Hopefully I will have some nicely brazed photos for Monday!

                    #264658
                    Neil Wyatt
                    Moderator
                      @neilwyatt

                      Did anyone ever answer on the definitive pronuciation of 'Tich'

                      I would have said 'Titch' to rhy with 'itch' not 'tish/fish.'

                      Neil

                      #264665
                      Ryan Norton
                      Participant
                        @ryannorton40317

                        Hi Neil

                        Yes, I would pronounce it, "Titch".

                        Exactly as you have said above.

                        #264672
                        Michael Gilligan
                        Participant
                          @michaelgilligan61133

                          Neil,

                          t'internet [for what that's worth] has this: **LINK**

                          http://www.pronouncenames.com/pronounce/tich

                          … but also gives you the option to submit alternatives idea devil

                          MichaelG.

                          #265082
                          Ryan Norton
                          Participant
                            @ryannorton40317

                            Yesterday I made some progress with one of the gear link frames and the outcome was successfully unsuccessful…

                            frown

                            Firstly it took a long time to get everything in the jig to fit correctly, square and lined up, especially the little block for the guide rod.

                            Eventually I managed to get it all together and correctly positioned for brazing. I also made the RHS parts as seen below.

                            two gear link frames 001.jpg

                            two gear link frames 002.jpg

                            two gear link frames 003.jpg

                            Here is the final brazed assembly.

                            two gear link frames 004.jpg

                            Now, here is where the unsuccessful part comes in…

                            (Neil, this was the part I never thought about…)

                            A portion of the jig was brazed to the top of the frame but with a small hammer blow, was rectified.

                            Once the nuts and parts of the jig were removed, I was left with this…

                            two gear link frames 005.jpg

                            I may have missed the minor detail that the beam needs to be removed from the frame, once the brazing operation was completed…

                            Nevertheless, I removed the beam with a hacksaw and will need to re-think this jig.

                            I am also not convinced that the frame is correct. It seems to be slightly out of square and the distance from the frame bolting face to the cut-out at the edge of the small block is smaller than required and therefore the block does not line up properly with the guide bar. (I will do a set up of this and post the photos later).

                            Anyway, overall the jig did work and here are some pics of the final fabricated gear link frame.

                            two gear link frames 006.jpg

                            two gear link frames 007.jpg

                            two gear link frames 008.jpg

                            two gear link frames 009.jpg

                            two gear link frames 010.jpg

                            #265087
                            Ryan Norton
                            Participant
                              @ryannorton40317

                              Here are the pictures of the gear link frame clamped to the frame.

                              gear link frame mounting 001.jpg

                              gear link frame mounting 002.jpg

                              gear link frame mounting 003.jpg

                              According to LBSC's words and music, the distance indicated as 25.35 mm above should be 24.6 mm and according to my slight redesign, 24.7 mm.

                              It is clear that the as-built dimension is 0.65 mm longer than drawn and hence the deviation of the guide bar mounting block from the guide bar.

                              The method of fabrication I have used does not allow for any surplus material to be removed from the mounting surfaces or any of the other faces. I think I am going to re-look at this component again and produce a more refined methodology for the fabrication and machining of the frame.

                              Any constructive wisdom would be useful…

                              wink

                              #265311
                              Ryan Norton
                              Participant
                                @ryannorton40317

                                Right, I have been thinking of ideas and have come up with the following fix for my jig.

                                Firstly, a channel will be milled into the top clamping plate to prevent the jig from being brazed to the link frame (I have highlighted this with a red circle).

                                expansion link gear frame jig rev1.jpg

                                I have also changed the fastening method, now with two separate bespoke screws that will be inserted from the outside and locate in holes in the beam. The larger of the two screws is in the way of the cross fastening threaded rod so I have had to come up with a different strategy here. I have simply drilled and tapped a lateral hole as can be seen in the transparent top view.

                                expansion link gear frame jig rev1001.jpg

                                expansion link gear frame jig rev1002.jpg

                                expansion link gear frame jig rev1003.jpg

                                expansion link gear frame jig rev1 exploded.jpg

                                Above is an exploded view of the new jig.

                                #265313
                                Ryan Norton
                                Participant
                                  @ryannorton40317

                                  I will also be using 4 mm plate for the sides and the small block. An allowance of 0.5 mm on each face will be made for machining. All the sizes have been adjusted accordingly.

                                  The brazed frames will then be machined in the mill to final sizes and hopefully turn out better than their predecessor…

                                  #265314
                                  Neil Wyatt
                                  Moderator
                                    @neilwyatt

                                    Cripes Ryan, that's dedication!

                                    #265334
                                    JasonB
                                    Moderator
                                      @jasonb

                                      You can also give any parts of your jig that are at risk of getting soldered a coat of solvent based Tippex correction fluid as that stops the solder sticking.

                                      I usually don't put the holes into fabricated parts until after they are soldered just incase anything should move slightly, in effect you are fabricating a casting that can then be machined.

                                      J

                                      #265400
                                      Ian S C
                                      Participant
                                        @iansc

                                        If you let the jig get a bit rusty the silver solder will be less likely to take to it, or as Jason says Tippex painted on areas next to the joints will do thesame.

                                        Ian S C

                                        #265525
                                        julian atkins
                                        Participant
                                          @julianatkins58923

                                          Hi Ryan,

                                          I have some 4mm BMS angle that is very accurate. If you can get same, it saves one silver soldering joint. Or else mill dead square some black angle iron.

                                          As for the other…

                                          I would bolt onto the motion plate the outer trunnion for the expansion link – after all the other inner one is also bolted on!

                                          Cheers,

                                          Julian

                                          #265592
                                          Ryan Norton
                                          Participant
                                            @ryannorton40317

                                            Thanks for the advice JasonB and Ian S C!

                                            Julian I did not think of bolting on the outer trunnion….

                                            Thank you for confusing me even more… now my mind is torn..wink

                                            I think I am going to ponder a little longer on this one and probably try out my new jig idea first as am committed to it.

                                            However, should it not work, I think two bolted on trunnions would be a good alternative.

                                            Thanks guys

                                            #265943
                                            Ryan Norton
                                            Participant
                                              @ryannorton40317

                                              I have used the brazed gear link frame as a test piece for machining. Here is the machined piece.

                                              gear link frame 009.jpg

                                              gear link frame 010.jpg

                                              gear link frame 011.jpg

                                              There was some chattering when doing the outer trunnion. I will have to insert a distance piece for support when I do the final motion frames.

                                              #265944
                                              Ryan Norton
                                              Participant
                                                @ryannorton40317

                                                I also took off the left hand side front cylinder cover to get at the piston for all to see.

                                                cylinder mounting 013.jpg

                                                cylinder mounting 014.jpg

                                                cylinder mounting 015.jpg

                                                cylinder mounting 016.jpg

                                                cylinder mounting 017.jpg

                                                Now I just need the correct size packing and I can fit the pistons for keeps.

                                                #266319
                                                Ryan Norton
                                                Participant
                                                  @ryannorton40317

                                                  I have set aside the gear link frames for now, to work on something new to keep the interest flowing.

                                                  I have started on the combination levers.

                                                  The levers are going to be machined from one piece, together and then split into separate levers and the final profiles then filed.

                                                  I first marked off the relevant sizes and hole positions with a scriber in the collet chuck.

                                                  comb lever 001.jpg

                                                  The 2 and 3mm holes were then drilled and reamed.

                                                  comb lever 002.jpg

                                                  A slit was then cut using a slitting saw.

                                                  comb lever 003.jpg

                                                  The saw was used at the lowest speed on the mill (80 rpm), with a cutting fluid of paraffin and oil, judiciously applied. The embryo lever was fed onto the saw in the direction of the rotation (climb milling) carefully.

                                                  The slit was cut to 6 mm deep on the first cut and then to the final depth of 11 mm on the second cut.

                                                  Cutting the slot took about 2 hours but the result is perfect.

                                                  Here is a photo after the first cut

                                                  comb lever 004.jpg

                                                  The bulk of the lower portion of the embryo lever was then milled away to the final thickness and the radius milled using a ball end mill.

                                                  comb lever 005.jpg

                                                  comb lever 006.jpg

                                                  comb lever 007.jpg

                                                  Here are some pics after the milling procedures.

                                                  comb lever 008.jpg

                                                  comb lever 009.jpg

                                                  comb lever 010.jpg

                                                  Now I need to cut the individual levers out, draw file the milling marks away and finally file the profile of the combination lever. I will be making filing buttons for the ends out of hardened silver steel.

                                                  (All of the milling procedures were performed with the material in the same position in the vice. So I had to place the material in the vice ensuring that there was clearance for all of the operations.)

                                                  Edited By Ryan Norton on 13/11/2016 10:39:52

                                                  Edited By Ryan Norton on 13/11/2016 10:42:32

                                                  #266401
                                                  Ryan Norton
                                                  Participant
                                                    @ryannorton40317

                                                    Here are some pics of the partly finished combination lever

                                                    comb lever 011.jpg

                                                    comb lever 012.jpg

                                                    comb lever 013.jpg

                                                    comb lever 014.jpg

                                                    comb lever 015.jpg

                                                    comb lever 016.jpg

                                                    comb lever 017.jpg

                                                    comb lever 018.jpg

                                                    comb lever 019.jpg

                                                    comb lever 020.jpg

                                                    I just need to file the final profile of the lever and then it is complete.

                                                    #266415
                                                    KWIL
                                                    Participant
                                                      @kwil

                                                      As a late suggestion, you could have used your "jig" to align everything and then, drilled and pinned the parts together in such a way that the silver solder would have flowed through the joints.

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