3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

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3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Home Forums Work In Progress and completed items 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH

Viewing 25 posts - 251 through 275 (of 303 total)
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  • #337218
    Ryan Norton
    Participant
      @ryannorton40317

      Hi Julian

      This is something I have considered and thus far ignored for the time being. wink

      With that said, I will be bushing all areas that require threaded connections, including the safety valve spring piston linkage.

      The boiler will be constructed similar to the one shown below.

      3656-j.jpg

      3656-k.jpg

      3656-l.jpg

      3656-m.jpg

      3656-n.jpg

      I do also think that the top gauge glass fitting will be silver soldered as well, similar to above but more along the lines of the original and screwed to the boiler before soldering.

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      #337229
      J Hancock
      Participant
        @jhancock95746

        The other choice to make.

        Do I pre-drill and tap the regulator +dome bush before fitting them to the boiler ?

        #337360
        Ryan Norton
        Participant
          @ryannorton40317

          Morning John/ Julian

          I reckon I would drill and tap the regulator and dome bush before fitting to the boiler, it would be easier for me.

          In terms of the attachment of the regulator stand to the boiler barrel, I would assume that this is no longer standard practice? I am referring to the GA above.

          What is the modern standard?

          Any advice would be appreciated.

          Thanks,

          #337383
          julian atkins
          Participant
            @julianatkins58923

            Hi Ryan,

            I have always drilled and tapped the dome bush, regulator bush on the backhead, and regulator bush on the smokebox tubeplate before silver soldering.

            I have always used hard drawn phos bronze for these bits. The usual tip is not to fully complete the tapping in case the threads get damaged by the long heat ups on the boiler and repeated dunking in sulphuric acid. I have never had this problem, but it might be more of a problem if you use gunmetal for these bushes.

            The regulator stand is ok because the fixings are tapped into it and not the copper.

            One of my least favourite jobs is making all the fitted bolts out of stainless for all the fixings.

            Good luck!

            Cheers,

            Julian

            #337403
            Ryan Norton
            Participant
              @ryannorton40317

              HI Julian

              Would copper for the various bushes be OK?

              Also, excuse my ignorance but "all the fitted bolts out of stainless for all the fixings"

              What are you referring to here?

              Regards,

              Ryan

              #337417
              julian atkins
              Participant
                @julianatkins58923

                Hi Ryan,

                You can use copper and I note you appear to have some big pieces noting how your firehole ring was turned out of solid. LBSC often used copper for the dome bush.

                Personally, I hate turning copper, and drilling and tapping it even less. Save the copper for something else.

                The fixings – you will need bolts to hold the dome to the dome bush. Brass screws are not strong enough. I prefer to have an unthreaded plain shank up to the bolt head which aids sealing. Commercial bolts in stainless will probably be undersized on the thread, and won't have an unthreaded portion, and the heads will be too big and will interfere with the dome itself. So I make them all myself out of stainless hex.

                Cheers,

                Julian

                #337723
                J Hancock
                Participant
                  @jhancock95746

                  As Julian A , avoid copper bushes and any form of leaded bronze bushes.

                  #337725
                  J Hancock
                  Participant
                    @jhancock95746

                    Should have said, if you are in any doubt about material, try silver soldering it on some 'scrap' item first.

                    #340029
                    Ryan Norton
                    Participant
                      @ryannorton40317

                      I have done some more work on Tich, this time on the brake gear.

                      I'm sure you would have all seen the naked brake shaft in some of my previous pictures of the full locomotive.

                      The first item made was the drop arm, this was marked out, drilled, cut out and then filed to final size.

                      brake 008.jpg

                      Next, the two actuating arms were made. As these needed to be exactly the same in every respect, two plates were soft-soldered together and the operations were performed on both arms at the same time.

                      brake 009.jpg

                      brake 010.jpg

                      Above you can see the fine line where the soft solder is.

                      The shape was then rough cut with a hacksaw.

                      brake 011.jpg

                      Filed with a bastard file.

                      brake 012.jpg

                      brake 013.jpg

                      Then filed with a second-cut file.

                      brake 014.jpg

                      brake 015.jpg

                      Finally finished to shape with a smooth file and the edges draw-filed.

                      brake 017.jpg

                      brake 016.jpg

                      The small hole at the small end was lengthened into a slot to accommodate the changes in radial length as the nut is screwed up and down.

                      brake 018.jpg

                      Finally the two pieces were separated with a bit of heat.

                      brake 019.jpg

                      Cleaned up.

                      brake 020.jpg

                      and then test fitted to the shaft and locomotive.

                      brake 021.jpg

                      The whole lot was then silver-soldered, remembering the square nut between the arms before soldering.

                      brake 022.jpg

                      brake 023.jpg

                       

                      Edited By Ryan Norton on 06/02/2018 15:59:24

                      #340036
                      Ryan Norton
                      Participant
                        @ryannorton40317

                        At the same time I fabricated the the brake column and spindle with all the various components.

                        See the pictures below of the various stages of work.

                        brake 001.jpg

                        brake 002.jpg

                        brake 003.jpg

                        brake 004.jpg

                        brake 005.jpg

                        brake 006.jpg

                        brake 006a.jpg

                        brake 007.jpg

                        brake 025.jpg

                        brake 026.jpg

                        Instead of pinning the brass collars to the shaft I made M2 x 1mm long grub screws which hold the collars to the shaft.

                        brake 027.jpg

                        brake 024.jpg

                        brake 028.jpg

                        #340039
                        Neil Wyatt
                        Moderator
                          @neilwyatt

                          Lovely work Ryan.

                          #341297
                          Ryan Norton
                          Participant
                            @ryannorton40317

                            Thanks again Neil.

                            I did a weeny bit of work this weekend.

                            First, a test of the new propane torch by doing some final annealing of the outer boiler wrapper and firebox wrapper.

                            annealing 002.jpg

                            annealing 001.jpg

                            Lastly, I tried my hand at some copper tube bending and cone fabrication for the pressure gauge.

                            pressure gauge 002.jpg

                            pressure gauge 001.jpg

                            #341326
                            J Hancock
                            Participant
                              @jhancock95746

                              Hmmm,no criticism but I just know you would have made an absolutely fabulous job of a castellated joint on that seam and avoided the butt strap.

                              For next time.

                              #341419
                              OldMetaller
                              Participant
                                @oldmetaller

                                Great work Ryan, you can't beat a bit of hand filing!

                                Regards,

                                John.

                                #376585
                                Ryan Norton
                                Participant
                                  @ryannorton40317

                                  I have been working again on Tich, with emphasis on the brake gear and valve gear.

                                  I blackened the brake column with some used motor oil which worked wonderfully.

                                  brake column 001.jpg

                                  brake column 002.jpg

                                  I am happy with this result. At least it is protected from corrosion and will not chip.

                                  #376586
                                  Ryan Norton
                                  Participant
                                    @ryannorton40317

                                    I then moved onto the hanger pins which were fun to turn and thread. This was a straightforward job requiring no further explanation. The one side is M3 and the other M2.

                                    hanger pins 001.jpg

                                    hanger pins 002.jpg

                                    hanger pins 003.jpg

                                    hanger pins 004.jpg

                                    #376590
                                    Ryan Norton
                                    Participant
                                      @ryannorton40317

                                      Next up were the brake hangers which were all made at once.

                                      Four slices of 2 mm thick steel plate were cut and using the first marked up piece, drilled accordingly with a 1.6 mm drill.

                                      The pieces were then riveted together with three copper rivets and shaped using files.

                                      brake hanger 001.jpg

                                      brake hanger 001a.jpg

                                      brake hanger 002.jpg

                                      brake hanger 003.jpg

                                      brake hanger 004.jpg

                                      brake hanger 005.jpg

                                      brake hanger 006.jpg

                                      Finally the rivets were filed flush and using a pin punch, removed. The edges were filed smooth and the lot oiled lightly.

                                      brake hanger 007.jpg

                                      They are all the same. wink

                                      #376591
                                      Ryan Norton
                                      Participant
                                        @ryannorton40317

                                        The brake beams were next, starting with the rear brake beam. If you remember a while back I posted some photos of the embryo beams, scribed and partially cut out.

                                        These were placed in the four jaw and the ends turned and threaded M2.

                                        rear brake beam 001.jpg

                                        rear brake beam 002.jpg

                                        rear brake beam 003.jpg

                                        rear brake beam 004.jpg

                                        Here I was checking the fit of the larger turned part using a piece of scrap drilled with the same hole as used on the hangers.

                                        rear brake beam 005.jpg

                                        The thread was started using the lathe tail stock barrel resting on the die holder.

                                        rear brake beam 006.jpg

                                        Finally the thread was finished with the piece of scrap in place to ensure that when a nut is screwed on it does not hinder the movement of the hanger.

                                        rear brake beam 007.jpg

                                        rear brake beam 008.jpg

                                        Now I just need to file to shape and give it a bit of surface sanding.

                                        One thing I have noticed is that the space for the front hangers is very tight between the wheels and the cylinder covers. I know this has been mentioned by others on the forum and elsewhere. I am lucky they JUST fit.

                                        A bigger issue I have noticed is that when the rear hangers are in place, the bottom holes are directly in line with the bottom of the frame which means the rear beam cannot fit in between them…? I have double checked the dimensions on both the hangers and the position of the hanger pin hole and they are correct to LBSC's description.

                                        The two possible solutions are to re-make the hangers, slightly longer to clear the frames or to mill recesses in the tops of the beams where they will conflict with the frames ( I have seen this on some Tich models). Has anyone else come across this issue?

                                        #376593
                                        Ryan Norton
                                        Participant
                                          @ryannorton40317

                                          Here is a pic of an existing Tich loco with the rear beams adjusted as per my previous post.

                                          rear brake beam conflict.jpg

                                          #376595
                                          Ryan Norton
                                          Participant
                                            @ryannorton40317

                                            Here is another variation I have found…

                                            rear brake beam conflict 01.jpg

                                            #376601
                                            Ryan Norton
                                            Participant
                                              @ryannorton40317

                                              Brake gear aside and onto the valve gear.

                                              The reversing shaft was turned down on both ends to a tight fit for the lifting and reverse arms. The side with the lifting and reverse arm will be brazed and the side with the single lifting arm will be drilled and pinned one the valve timing is sorted.

                                              reversing shaft 001.jpg

                                              reversing shaft 002.jpg

                                              reversing shaft 003.jpg

                                              reversing shaft 004.jpg

                                              #377034
                                              Ryan Norton
                                              Participant
                                                @ryannorton40317

                                                This weekend I managed to get a bit more done.

                                                I took some photos of the front brake beam in situ as well as the brake hangers showing the clearance issues.

                                                front brake beam 001.jpg

                                                front brake beam 002.jpg

                                                front brake beam 003.jpg

                                                As you can see, it is a very tight fit in front of the cylinder cover.

                                                I will need to make the new hangers narrower as well to give some more movement forward and back.

                                                rear brake beam 009.jpg

                                                rear brake beam 010.jpg

                                                Here is the finished rear brake beam.

                                                #377035
                                                Ryan Norton
                                                Participant
                                                  @ryannorton40317

                                                  Here is a picture of the rear brake hanger showing the clearance issue with the rear brake beam.

                                                  rear brake hanger 001.jpg

                                                  I am going to make these a bit longer.

                                                  #377037
                                                  Ryan Norton
                                                  Participant
                                                    @ryannorton40317

                                                    I made a start on the radius rods as well.

                                                    A piece of 6 mm steel plate was cut and then placed in a pickle to remove the hard mill scale.

                                                    This was then squared up in the mill and finally the holes were drilled and reamed in the block.

                                                    *Note the block was placed in the vice to allow for all successive steps without removing it.

                                                    radius rod 001.jpg

                                                    The 3 mm slot was then cut with a 2 mm slitting saw.

                                                    radius rod 002.jpg

                                                    radius rod 003.jpg

                                                    The one side of the rod was then milled down.

                                                    radius rod 004.jpg

                                                    The embryo radius rods were then removed and all of the edges were slightly chamfered with a needle file.

                                                    radius rod 005.jpg

                                                    radius rod 006.jpg

                                                    The other side will be milled down, the piece split down the middle and the final shape of the radius rod filed.

                                                    #377142
                                                    Hopper
                                                    Participant
                                                      @hopper

                                                      Wow. The amount and quality of work in a loco is just boggling. I am in awe. Thanks for posting your progress.

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