Hi, Not really the 'clubby' type tbh? I will try and find the drawings though,thanks.

Has anybody run something like a Bantom Cock and can they comment on its performance. I am interested to know because I am over half way through a Rob Roy. I know the performance of a Rob Roy can be a challenge so I am already looking for a second engine when I have finished.

I have two possible routes. The first being a version of Betty (similar size to Bantom Cock). I have castings etc to build one – or even use many of the castings I have to build a bigger tank engine like William. The second option is to build something maybe a bit heavier like a Butch or even a 5" gauge Rob Roy.

I guess my question is that as Rob Roy is a little bit small and light, would I regret the many hours building another 3 1/2 gauge engine?

Phil H

Thanks Baz for your input. I really appreciate it – comments like yours are very helpful.

I hope you dont mind me asking more. I would imagine that the engines like Doris etc might struggle because of the lack of weight across the axles but do you have the same feeling when it comes to larger 3 1/2" gauge engines – perhaps like 2-6-4 Jubilee by Martin Evans. It looks quite large and has the side tanks. Is there really much difference in performance and lack of adhesion between say Jubilee versus Simplex or Butch?

Phil H

Baz,

Thanks again, another great answer. I think my plan is now to obviously try to complete my Rob Roy but I will go down to my local club and have a chat with some of the members to help guide me towards a second locomotive.

One of the local club members suggested Sweet Pea. I am sure it is a very successful and relatively simple design but I think I would prefer to build something closer to a real engine regarding its appearance. As you say, you need to build what you want. If nothing else, to keep you focused.

Thanks once again.

Phil H

Thanks Neil, very impressed, not having any luck finding anyone who has or is building an A4 Pacific, does anyone know of that person ?

Cheers Rich

Dave,

As designed Henley is a slide-valve design so the valves should lift off the sliding faces to allow any trapped water to escape and so prevent hydraulic locking. Have you got enough clearance (approx 1/16" as drawn) between the top of the valves and the valve covers allowing them to lift? Is there enough vertical clearance between the bottom of the valve rod slot and the valve rod itself or is that lack of clearance preventing lifting?

Of course if your father converted to piston valves then that facility is lost & you will have to go for drain or cylinder relief valves.

1/16" pin should be fine – you want that pin to shear to prevent any more serious issues. Supposing that you do indeed have slide valves fitted I suggest that you find out why water condensate cannot escape by lifting the valves off the face first.

Regards,

Phil