24v dc motor powering a drill press

[Steve King 5Participant @steveking5]

I have this old drill press and it's great but as with a lot of drill presses it's just too fast for drilling metal.

I am hoping to attach this 24v dc motor to power it. It's from a mobility scooter .

I'll need a 240v a.c. input, 24v dc out put transformer and some sort of 24v dc input 0-24v dc output controller (I think)

Can any one point me in the right direction?

I think this is the correct place for this post but if not, admin please move it.

Thanks

Steve

[Steve King 5Participant @steveking5]

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

A PSU to drive that motor will be a serious and expensive bit of kit!

Transformers themselves give an AC output, to rectify and control (presumably) the speed of the motor the cost will mount up. Since that motor will be running at 2 or 3 times the speed of most induction motors (1450 or 2800rpm) you will need to make changes to the drive arrangements.

Not sure why you think most pillar drills are too fast for drilling metal IMHO many are too slow.

IanP

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Likewise, surprised you think the drill is too fast.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Puzzled. Plate says 24v 11 amps. 24×11=264watts, not 950! Something doesn't compute.

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Steve, controller here will run the motor, you will also need a transformer and rectifier unit to provide the 24v 15A DC supply.

**LINK**

Emgee

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

If your drill has a slow speed of 480rpm then you should be ok drilling steel up to about 17mm and a top speed of 4220 then you are ok down to 2mm.

Mike

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by John Haine on 21/03/2019 22:21:34:

Puzzled. Plate says 24v 11 amps. 24×11=264watts, not 950! Something doesn't compute.

perhaps it's 110A, and motor is inefficient, 2640W in, 950 out. Must say I agree putting a 5400 rpm motor on instead of 1500 (probably) doesn't make sense

Edited By duncan webster on 22/03/2019 00:46:40

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Hi

There is no need for a transformer as you can buy switched mode power supplies here. They have 24V DC units with output currents that will easily meet the 11A input current for under £30, a 24V 20A DC smps is listed at £28-99p postage included. All that is then required is a speed controller that can handle 20A or so and the jobs done. No need to try and build your own and spend a fortune on large transformers, bridge rectifiers, capacitors and a suitable case to hold it all. Just 2 relatively small units that can be mounted in a smallish enclosure.

HTH

Martin

A suitable speed controller can be found here

Edited By Martin W on 22/03/2019 01:29:19

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Also be aware that the torque of the motor is reduced if you lower the speed and if it has an integral cooling fan the air flow will also be reduced and can result in overheating when fully loaded at slow speed.

Paul

[Ed Dinning 1Participant @eddinning1]

Hi Steve, if you can get the electronic controller that went with this motor, many of your problems will be solved as it will give variable speed with a current limiting characteristic, so speed should not drop with load.

You will then need a fairly hefty mains to 24v DCpower supply unit.

Cheers, Ed

[Steve King 5Participant @steveking5]

Thanks for all your input guys, much appreciated.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

It's a 4 brush motor with a flat braided strap for connection, despite the spacing on the nameplate, that alone says it's 110A current rating not 11A. You can get speed controllers designed for robots that will handle this sort of current. Search for high current pwm motor speed control e.g. **LINK** (from search no idea if it's any good).
Unless doing sustained drilling a couple of 12V lead acid batteries and a intelligent charger would be easier than a 100A power supply.
Brushed DC motors do not loose torque with reduced speed. Torque is only limited by the available supply current and voltage, current rating of motor / supply and mechanical strength. Normally the winding resistance will limit the current and thus torque, but if you increase the voltage to compensate the torque will go up. A controller with speed feedback will do this automatically. Obviously the available mechanical power goes down if you reduce the speed at the same torque, this is the laws of physics.

Robert G8RPI.

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember19781]

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[Former MemberParticipant @formermember32069]

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[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Hi

How about changing rpm mechanically… change pulley sizes… a quick search on Google brought up a quick ref. could work out a cheaper method…

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pulley-motor-speed-d_1475.html

George.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

How about changing rpm mechanically… change pulley sizes… a quick search on Google brought up a quick ref. could work out a cheaper method…

**LINK**

George.

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

… Also this as an aid , the top formula

Ref. My Newnes Mechanical engineers pocket book.

George.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Before worrying about that contradictory motor plate and drill speeds I advise testing the motor by connecting it to a car battery! With the photo the right way up, it looks as is someone has written 'MOTOR U/S' on it, where U/S likely means "unserviceable", ie broken.

I was able to find the PA05-A130-SY54B motor listed as a spare part in a scooter manual. It confirms 5400rpm and 950W, also that the controller is rated to 160A. The scooter is powered by two 12V batteries making 24V likely.

I guess either:

• 950W out is the maximum peak output (ie 24V at 40A), and 24V at 11A = 264W is the continuous rating. OR
• the plate means 110A, and it's the other way round, ie 950W continuous, 2640W peak.

Drill speed rule of thumb, 10000rpm /drill diameter. Thus 1mm diameter drill about 10000rpm, 10mm drill about 1000rpm, 20mm drill 500rpm. etc. Roughly!

Dave

[Clive IndiaParticipant @cliveindia]

11A at 24v = 264W.

and this thing produces 950W output.

Where can I get one of these motors which surely defies the laws of physics and generates its own energy?

Where is the hidden nucleur reactor?

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

If the motor is labelled U/S it is probable an overload (heavy user plus kerb) or overheating (long run uphill) either burnt out the windings or the commutator.
I'm kind of surprised some people don't seem to understand DC motors to the extent of how they can take huge extra current and provide huge extra torque at low speed to cope with starting or sudden load but of course not sustain it.
It is also why battery drills can perform so well but when the battery dies you can't realistically use them with a bench psu and get the same performance.

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember32069]

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[Former MemberParticipant @formermember19781]

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[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Sorry, but there is no dot. The other dots and colons are square and clearly visible.
There are 3 leads on this motor the low current one you mentioned earlier is not the power connection, it's probably a temperature sensor.
This motor is much too big for 265W, it will be 950W output and 2650W electrical input. Peak efficency for a PMDC is adout 65% but that is at 10% load. at rated load it's likel to be 45%. This is a 4 brush motor which are less efficentso the 36% indicated by the data plate for max load is entirely reasonable. We hae no idea what the duty cycle is.

Robert G8RPI.

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember32069]

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