#209 – new look

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#209 – new look

Home Forums Model Engineers’ Workshop. #209 – new look

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  • #136132
    Peter G. Shaw
    Participant
      @peterg-shaw75338

      Obviously people don't agree with me about the removal of adverts from old magazines. Fair enough, that's your privilege. And ok, maybe there is a market for old complete magazines, but that's not something I'm too bothered about. My thoughts on this matter are that sometime during the next 20 years either I'll become incapacitated from whatever, in which case I'll have other things to bother about, or I'll fall off this mortal coil, in which case I won't be able to bother about them at all. I'm also reasonably certain that members of my family won't be bothered either. Indeed, I rather suspect that clearing my workshop will be so time consuming that a lot of it may well go for scrap. Actually, thinking about it, I don't have that many ME magazines, but I do have all the MEW ones, which I think are more or less complete except for the intended pull-outs such as Harold Hall's initial data book series.

      I also have the complete set of first issue WPS books. Most are in very good condition, except for Tubal Cain's Hardening, Tempering & Heat Treatment which has suffered due to being "Read, Marked and Inwardly Digested". Now these could well be worth something. But I am digressing away from the original points of this thread.

      Seriously though, I've said what I think, and I acknowledge that other people will think differently, and that's how it should be in a "free" world.

      Regards,

      Peter G. Shaw

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      #136139
      NJH
      Participant
        @njh

        OK – a different look at MEW 209.

        Looking through it I came across the article on making a morse taper removal tool – essentially a pair of folding wedges controlled by a couple of thumb screws. Now this seems to me to be a far more considerate method of operation than application of the friendly mallet to the end of the drawbar. Before I start construction however does anyone have an opinion of the likelihood of removing the chuck from the arbour rather than the MT (No. 3) from the socket?

        Cheers

        Norman

        #136140
        Michael Gilligan
        Participant
          @michaelgilligan61133

          Norman,

          You raise an interesting point there.

          Given that the JT taper is steeper than the Morse, and also much shorter; the JT should, in theory release first !

          MichaelG.

          #136168
          Peter G. Shaw
          Participant
            @peterg-shaw75338

            Norman,

            George McLatchie in MEW96 (Feb 2004) gives a design for a screw extractor for the Warco MiniMill which avoids the problem of extracting Morse tapers. Essentially, it keeps all the forces inside the mandrel thus preventing any possibility of damage to the mandrel bearings, and preventing any possibility of, in your case, removing a chuck from it's arbor.

            I note that Evenson refers to Asian milling/drilling machines. The MiniMill is one such item.

            It's easy to make, and it works.

            Regards,

            Peter G. Shaw

            #136176
            NJH
            Participant
              @njh

              Thanks Peter

              With a good deal of scrabbling around I eventually discovered issue 96 "filed" on the bottom shelf of my wife's needlework cupboard ( It seem that I am sharing some the "spare space" there but I don't know if she has cottoned on yet.)

              My mill is a bit bigger than that shown and I'm not sure that I can get an extractor to fit. Neat idea though and worthy of further investigation.

               

              Michael

              Thank you for your post – that is just what I was concerned about.

              Regards

              Norman

              Edited By NJH on 22/11/2013 16:07:16

              #136183
              Sub Mandrel
              Participant
                @submandrel

                Some (not all) of my drill arbors have a larger diameter ring at the end of the morse taper, so such a tool would work fine.

                My solution was a homebrew version of a the self ejecting drawbar. The silver soldered on stout collar on the drawbar fits inside a cavity in the *(left hand threaded) cap. Just unscrew the drawbar with cap in place and be ready to catch the tooling, although 99 times out of 100 it stays engaged with the end of the drawbar. Zero stress on bearings. Only possible downside, I had to slightly thin the bearing preload nut to provide adequate thread for the cap to engage. Note hole in top of cap for applying gentle force to unscrew it, as releasing tends to tighten up its left hand thread.

                Neil

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                #140521
                Nicholas Farr
                Participant
                  @nicholasfarr14254

                  Hi, I see the issue nuber is back up into the top L/H corner of 212. I was not to bothered about it not being there, but now having compared it with 209, 210 and 211 I think it does make the magazine distinctive.

                  Regards Nick.

                  #140522
                  Michael Gilligan
                  Participant
                    @michaelgilligan61133

                    Special Free Gift with No. 213

                    Three triangular Adhesive Labels

                    ???

                    MichaelG.

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