20 degrees vs 14.5 degrees pressure angle for gears

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20 degrees vs 14.5 degrees pressure angle for gears

Home Forums Traction engines 20 degrees vs 14.5 degrees pressure angle for gears

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  • #2869
    Martin Rock-Evans
    Participant
      @martinrock-evans77799
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      #336752
      Martin Rock-Evans
      Participant
        @martinrock-evans77799

        Hi,

        I'm looking to make a set of spur gears for my 3" Burrell. The drawings show these as 10 DP with a 20 degree pressure angle and between 17 and 70 teeth, however I'm struggling to find an affordable set of cutters with a 20 degree pressure angle (£100+ a cutter is not affordable). RDG Tools do an affordable set of 10 DP gear cutters at 14.5 degree pressure angle. How much of a difference would the two pressure angles make (understanding that the whole train needs the same DP and pressure angle) or can anyone recommend a supplier who can supply 10 DP gear cutters with 20 degree pressure angle.

        Many thanks,

        Martin

        #336754
        JasonB
        Moderator
          @jasonb

          It won't make much difference and will be closer to the original gear profile as a bonus and works better if you have a sprung back axle.

          #336761
          John Hinkley
          Participant
            @johnhinkley26699

            Martin,

            If it helps to visualise what Jason has proposed, I attach a portion of a drawing showing a 70 tooth 20° PA 10 DP gear ( the lower gear portion in black ) with a gear portion of the same specification, but 14.5° PA ( in red ) superimposed, meshing with a portion of a 17 tooth 14.5° PA 10 DP gear ( above ).

            20? v 14.5? gears meshing

            It was generated using GearDXF program and manipulated in QCAD Professional.

            John

            #336762
            Muzzer
            Participant
              @muzzer

              The 20 degree PA teeth are more "triangular" (less parallel) than the 14.5 and one result is a larger radial force pushing the gears apart when a given torque is applied. The teeth are also slightly more robust.

              Murray

              #336774
              Brian Wood
              Participant
                @brianwood45127

                Martin,

                There is an alternative and that might be to cut the gears as a metric set, 2.5 Mod and 20 degree PA.

                The cutters might be more competitively priced for those and your build notes would record the change from plans for the benefit of someone further down the line.

                I'll now retreat to the defended bunker

                Brian

                #336780
                Brian Wood
                Participant
                  @brianwood45127

                  Martin,

                  Perhaps I should add that if you go down the metric route you will need to make adjustments to reduce the centre to centre distances between the shafts accordingly from those shown on the drawing. They are not large, but would be important.

                  Brian

                  #336801
                  Muzzer
                  Participant
                    @muzzer

                    You can of course choose any module size you care to define, not just nice round numbers. You wouldn't be able to buy an off the shelf cutter for that exact size perhaps but for the purposes of making a functioning scale model, you could surely use the nearest "standard" size which may be only marginally different. That way you wouldn't need to mess with the centre distances.

                    To calculate your custom module size, you'd divide the reference diameter by the number of teeth. If there is a std module size close to that, you can take a view on whether it is close enough not to worry about.

                    As an example, I recently specified some gears in a mixture of mod sizes including 0.98. As the mould was going to be specially made anyway, it was no skin off anyone's teeth if they didn't all come out as exact integers.

                    Murray

                    Edited By Muzzer on 15/01/2018 12:07:45

                    #336820
                    HOWARDT
                    Participant
                      @howardt

                      You can make a gear abnormal or subnormal, ie the PCD is slightly more or less than normal for a given module or diametral pitch. I often used gears like this were gear centres were fixed for whatever reason. It does give a weaker root to the tooth when subnormal. Ideally you don't want to go more than half a tooth less or more, but this depends on ratio required.

                      #336853
                      Neil Wyatt
                      Moderator
                        @neilwyatt

                        In practice pressure angle only needs to be matched for each pair of gears, but it will look better if the whole train share the same pressure angle.

                        In practice older equipment/machines typically had 14.5 degree gears so Jason is probably correct that they will actually be more correct in appearance.

                        Pressure angle does not change any gear calculations, except it affects when you need to make allowances for undercutting when making pinions with small numbers of teeth (14.5 degree gears get undercut at 32 teeth, 20 degree at 17 teeth).

                        I'd guess 20 DP is specced because your pinion is 17 teeth. If you use a 14.5 degree cutter you can get around this by making the pinion slightly oversize (typically by about 1/4 of a tooth depth) and either increasing the gear spacing or making the mating wheel undersize by the same amount and accepting 'squarer' teeth.

                        This works better with hobbed than form cut gears.

                        Neil

                        #336894
                        Martin Rock-Evans
                        Participant
                          @martinrock-evans77799

                          Many thanks all for the advice and support. Neil, I'm slightly confused by your comment about undercutting, if the tooth form requires undercutting, I'm guessing that can't be done by a disc shaped gear cutter?

                          #336982
                          Neil Wyatt
                          Moderator
                            @neilwyatt
                            Posted by Martin Rock-Evans on 15/01/2018 19:36:50:

                            Many thanks all for the advice and support. Neil, I'm slightly confused by your comment about undercutting, if the tooth form requires undercutting, I'm guessing that can't be done by a disc shaped gear cutter?

                            No, it requires a hobbed or generated gear to make an undercut, but if you use a pitch circle shift you can cut a usable gear with a form cutter.

                            Neil

                            #337087
                            Michael Gilligan
                            Participant
                              @michaelgilligan61133

                              Martin,

                              A little exploration of this superb utility should prove enlightening: **LINK**

                              http://hessmer.org/gears/InvoluteSpurGearBuilder.html

                              MichaelG.

                              #337121
                              Neil Wyatt
                              Moderator
                                @neilwyatt
                                Posted by Michael Gilligan on 17/01/2018 08:26:20:

                                Martin,

                                A little exploration of this superb utility should prove enlightening: **LINK**

                                http://hessmer.org/gears/InvoluteSpurGearBuilder.html

                                MichaelG.

                                That's generally what I use to create STLs for 3D printing.

                                #431016
                                Stephen Meredith
                                Participant
                                  @stephenmeredith48159

                                  Hi Martin, just quick question did you go with the

                                  14.5 deg PA ? im in the same boat thinking of building

                                  the same model and cost of the cutters.

                                  RDG seem a cost effective solution but only if the 14.5

                                  worked out.

                                  Stephen.

                                  #431060
                                  old mart
                                  Participant
                                    @oldmart

                                    Thanks to that diagram, I now know what the difference is.

                                    #431068
                                    Martin Rock-Evans
                                    Participant
                                      @martinrock-evans77799

                                      Hi Stephen, I went for the specified 20 deg PA in the end. Steve Holder at sales@homeandworkshop.co.uk was able to supply the cutters I needed second hand at a reasonable price.

                                      Here are some of the resulting gears:20190521_101833.jpg

                                      2019-09-02 10.56.07.jpgHi Stephen, I went for the specified 20 deg PA in the end. Steve Holder at sales@homeandworkshop.co.uk was able to supply the cutters I needed second hand at a reasonable price. Here are some of the resulting gears:2019-07-14 19.31.31.jpg20190521_101833.jpg

                                      #431176
                                      Stephen Meredith
                                      Participant
                                        @stephenmeredith48159

                                        Fantastic looking job Martin, I feel reading the entire thread you did the right thing, I will try to follow the same.

                                        Keep up the good work, and keep posting I'm sure it helps lots of people, not just me.

                                        Just ordered the first few bits from Bridport so now in committed.

                                        Regards Stephen.

                                        #435531
                                        Stephen Meredith
                                        Participant
                                          @stephenmeredith48159

                                          Cutters Obtained!

                                          Just an update I ended up going to the Midlands model engineering show and dropped lucky with the same Steve Holder. (Home and workshop)

                                          I bought 3 of the cutters needed to start cutting gears for the engine at a reasonable price and all-important 20deg cutters. Actually started machining the smokebox tube and a few castings purchased my other finished engine can be seen to the right hiding 1" Minnie. The new smokebox being 3 times larger. smiley

                                          Edited By Stephen Meredith on 01/11/2019 15:57:17

                                          #440462
                                          Stephen Meredith
                                          Participant
                                            @stephenmeredith48159

                                            One final question martin.

                                            What did you use for the rear axle,

                                            Is obtaining the required length in silver steel the way

                                            Or is a simple MS bar polished up enough to run smooth

                                            In the bearings. I can imagine a ground bar being pricey especially as its longer than 13" the standard for silver steel.

                                            Any help appreciated from anyone.

                                            #440465
                                            Anonymous

                                              As per the drawing I'm using 1-5/8" diameter EN8 for the rear axle on my 4" Burrell. The finish of the bar as drawn is fine as far as I'm concerned. Of course I'll remove any dings and burrs, but as drawn it's probably better than the original. I dispensed with the bronze bearings in the final drive tube as well. So it's steel on cast iron.

                                              Andrew

                                              #440483
                                              JasonB
                                              Moderator
                                                @jasonb

                                                If you did want to go the the expense of silver steel then 1m lengths are also a standard length just not from the usual ME suppliers, PGMS would be another option but a bit OTT

                                                Like Andrew I went with bright bar though it took a couple of attempts to get a decent bit, first was bent and the second has quite a heavy spiral pattern down the outside more like you get on con cast bronze.

                                                #440494
                                                Stephen Meredith
                                                Participant
                                                  @stephenmeredith48159

                                                  Thank you both for the replies.

                                                  Looks like college supplies at a show, and get a good bit, and at least see it before buying.

                                                  Hopefully, some new old stock that's straight.

                                                  I think this engine's a big step up from my previous model this may not be my last question.

                                                  Jason can probably vouch for that as you have helped me a lot in the past building the Minnie,

                                                  I owe you many pints.

                                                  steve.

                                                  #440542
                                                  Martin Rock-Evans
                                                  Participant
                                                    @martinrock-evans77799

                                                    I brought myself a 24" length of 1" precision ground EN1A from College Engineering Supply. I guess it is a little expensive, but on the other hand, in comparison to other parts it's not too much, and I knew it would fit well when the bearings were reamed. I didn't put bronze bushes into the hubs, so they are cast iron on the steel shaft, but I do have bronze bushes in the final drive tube, mostly because that was fairly easy to do with the castings I have from Bridport Foundry.

                                                    #441104
                                                    Stephen Meredith
                                                    Participant
                                                      @stephenmeredith48159

                                                      Hello all.

                                                      Another small question on my 3" drawings the hole on top of the smokebox tube says 7/8 but the chimney base castings bore says 1"-7/8 is the hole on the smokebox wrong. Attached photo of the drawing if i can manage to do it. Should they both be 1 -7/8"

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