1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ

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1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ

This topic has 64 replies, 28 voices, and was last updated 25 August 2019 at 13:08 by Howard Lewis.

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15 November 2015 at 09:09 #212372
V8Eng
Participant
@v8eng
Really sorry to see what has happened and hope the gods are with you when the cover comes off.
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12 December 2015 at 14:26 #216037
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Time to keep this thread up-to-date:

Chassis, axles and brake parts now painted using 'proper' chassis paint.

Anybody realise why the bituminous paint was a no-no?

Will store the parts against the Carport door once the paint has fully hardened, then assemble a table so that I can remove the door innards and start stripping paint off of them as well as the body parts previously removed.

I took two videos of me painting, each around 75min, but need to edit them before posting on YouTube.

Electric shower unit FUBAR so using a watering can [:D]

Geoff – Well, when needs must and all that, but it works a treat [)][/quote]
12 December 2015 at 14:33 #216039
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
Hope you can still read the chassis number. They used to like reading that for the MOT – not that it worries you now. By the way, what are you using to strip the paint off? Once stripped, will you use anything to stop them rusting before you re-paint? I show an interest as I have to completely strip a 2Cv and the metal is only half as thick as the Austin.
BobH
12 December 2015 at 16:02 #216051
Gordon W
Participant
@gordonw
Speedy- use a blowlamp, better still a bonfire, quicker and less messy than paint stripper. modern stripper does not seem to work well anyway. I use proper red oxide for priming, 2 coats for tough conditions, good gloss to seal the primer. I've got stuff that's been outside for 20 years with one coat of red-oxide and still good. BTW I've a 2CV galvanised chassis that needs a good home, if you're anywhere near NE Scotland.
12 December 2015 at 16:03 #216052
ega
Participant
@ega
OuBallie:

ARQ? A new abbreviation to me I fear.

Presumably not Are Rubies Quaint?
12 December 2015 at 18:03 #216071
Chris Evans 6
Participant
@chrisevans6
What an interesting thread, it has been a long time since I ran a Severn (Swopped it for a Lea Francis) However just a thought on the bushes, I am making lots of bushes for folk out of glass or carbon filled PTFE self lubricating and impervious to water (OK the shaft wont be) Most of my work is for motorcycles and football pitch ground keeping stuff. Re bituminous paint, is it due to the new stuff being water based ?
13 December 2015 at 12:35 #216184
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
BobH,

If you zoom into the photo, to the NS chassis leg above the front CT (CarTrolley) upright, you will see an unpainted section.

This has the chassis number stamped on. Austin originally riveted chassis number plates onto the OS rail, but changed to punching the numbers on around the time my car was constructed.

However, when I stripped the chassis to bare metal I was somewhat taken aback to see what appeared to be an outline of a chassis plate impression in the steel.

Ah, unless of course it was from the punch that made the rivet holes. Just thought of that

I found the best paint stripper I've ever used full stop.

Biostrip

Water based BUT it works an absolute treat, with no nasty smell. The usual disclaimer but I've recommended it enough times now I think I should throw them a hint as I need some more.

Most strippers have been so diluted by EU Regs as to make them useless now.

I gave the bare metal a wipe over with GibbsBrand but where there was any rust, a spray of phosphoric acid.

Another method of protecting bare metal is to use Agfa CopyRapid, a water based clear coat used in the printing industry to stop aluminium plates oxidising.

Gordon,

Red oxide now is just an apology for what it was, having been killed off by the EU.

The manufacturers are conning us by using the once great name on a product that bares no resemblance to what it was. You are lucky if you have some of the original product. Wish I had.

ega,

Very appropriate!

Model number.

All Sevens have them, but I must ask how they came about, as I don't. Good question!

Chris,

Perfect material, but life's too short for me to even contemplate replacing them.

Anyroad, they've survived 80years, so will outlast me as well as the next few owners me thinks.

You can follow my progress on the FriendsForum

Geoff – Ready to start stripping tomorrow, paint that is
13 December 2015 at 14:25 #216198
Gordon W
Participant
@gordonw
Red oxide- Just looked at my old tin, still liquid, it is zinc posphate , I've got steel outside for 20 years with no top coat and not rusty. The stuff I use is not from a DIY shop, get it from tractor repair or similar outlet. Red lead is still made, or was a couple of years ago, but need a licence to buy and use. No idea what licence ! last I bought I flashed my spraying certificate and no probs. even tho' it was for insecticide.
15 December 2015 at 22:31 #216499
Howard Lewis
Participant
@howardlewis46836
Re A7 brakes. (LONG time since I had anything to do with them!)

From memory, the standard set up was with the cables running to below the front axle. This gave a self servo brake release as the axle twisted under braking.

The popular cure was the Bowdenflex modification which secured the outer cable to the brake backplate, above the axle, with the inner secured to the lever which had been rotated through approx 180 degrees.

Reputedly, gave good braking with minimal increase in unsprung weight; or as good as could be expected with a beam axle and transverse leaf spring! on skinny tyres.

But it was a car of it s time, and all the modern stuff, (self adjusting dual circuit , anti lock brakes, stability control etc) that we take for granted had not even been thought of, let alone made.

With regard to the shaft and bearings, the simplest way seems to be fit grease nipples and keep well greased, to lubricate and to provide a very low friction weather seal. Cars of that period called for frequent application of a grease gun to the many nipples, long before sealed for a (shorter) life bearings.

Howard
27 June 2016 at 10:53 #244306
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Time to update this thread.

Videos that will hopefully help other owners.

Removing the cylinder block from the crankcase:

Removing the flywheel:

Removing camshaft followers and valve springs:

REPO:

Removing the crankcase/crankshaft bearings:

Removing the oil pump – The pathetic first attempt.

Removing the oil pump – Much better one:

Removing cylinder head studs:

Things have ground to a halt waiting for BSP taps & dies, plus fittings for my new compressor.
A swollen right foot has meant I cannot walk very far or stand for long.
A walking stick is not conducive to getting much done.

Fittings plus taps & dies received so this week should, with hope, see further progress, this time using the soda blaster, provided that is, the bl@@dy cloud bursts don't continue and threaten to flood the Carport!
Saturday afternoon saw the heaviest such downpour, accompanied with hail, that I have seen in a very very long time, resulting in the back garden/lawn being under water.
Forgot to put the rain gauge back after mowing the lawn, BUT it must have been well over an inch/25mm of rain.

Geoff – Foot nearly back to normal.

Edited By OuBallie on 27/06/2016 10:56:28
7 July 2016 at 12:03 #245705
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Where/how to organise parts that will need blasting then spraying?

Came up with the absolutely 'brilliant' idea of hanging them on a rail suspended from the Carport roof beams.

Job done, and now ready to use the MSB unit for the first time, and man is it dusty.

Didn't seal up one section of the plastic sheeting properly that was isolating one half of the Carport, so some dust got through.
I will fix this before doing any more blasting or spray painting.

This method does, however, remove paint from areas nothing else can get into.

Attacked a lilac tree this week, using chainsaw, then had to do some wood and felt replacement on Shed roof.

Geoff – Brain says "Can do" but body replies "No bl@@dy way"!
7 July 2016 at 12:11 #245707
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
Next time, string that chain – end to end and hook your bits thro the chain – stops them sliding about and the chain gets painted as well. Also, DON'T breath in any of the soda dust – gives you bronchitis for about 8 weeks or more.
BobH (32 RN Box)
7 July 2016 at 12:55 #245720
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
BobH,

What a brilliant idea on using the chain! Thanks.

Am wearing a proper mask, and have the Axial fan plus pedestal one sucking the soda dust out of the Carport.

It would be impossible to see without those fans going.

This forum is a gold mine for advise and help.

Geoff – Thanks everyone.
8 March 2017 at 23:01 #287883
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Update time.

Out of sequence, but can't help that.

Have just about sorted out my bench mounted sandblasting cabinet, from being virtually useless to now doing working. Video to follow.

Geoff – Getting ready to bring the body back into the Carport.
23 April 2017 at 20:47 #294645
Mikael Flidens
Participant
@mikaelflidens11360
Awesome progress – keep going! I can't wait to see the results of your work. Greetings!
8 May 2017 at 14:35 #297077
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
NS Mud Wing patch.

Advise please on the best way to make this patch.
This is my first attempt at bodywork, and I experimented using 0.6mm sheet
Pretty pleased with it, BUT can/must do better.
A former and tin bashing?
Open to any suggestions.
Not sure where to split the part for easy welding.
My bender produces a bent very close to that from the Austin factory so don't need to make a new blade, with a different radius.

I am thinking of making short bends on the top curved section/s, split as per my experiment after a failed attempt to stretch the metal, and then welding the flat flange/s to them, but just had a thought, would 0.6mm sheet stretch enough?
I did mange to get a gentle curve only, after a few minutes with sharp end of hammer.
David Gardiner in his video Bodywork Restoration Tutorial makes stretching the metal look so frigging easy – Grrrr
Need to have another look at what he does, before I dive in again.
Trust me to start on this as a first attempt at tin bashing.
My late Dad is shaking his head right now, shouting "Get in with it, it's easy!"

More photos in my Album.

Geoff – Spring!?
9 May 2017 at 12:58 #297283
Dave Halford
Participant
@davehalford22513
It's best to use butt joints between the plate and original steel else you get trapped water between and a while later a little line of rust bubbles betraying the edge of your plate.

Butting needs less filler too.
9 May 2017 at 20:29 #297346
john kennedy 1
Participant
@johnkennedy1
Geoff, had a read through your thread on the Austin forum. You're doing a brilliant job of it. Beautiful car,wish I had one but wouldn't have the guts to take it on.

Keep going. John
9 May 2017 at 20:31 #297347
martyn nutland
Participant
@martynnutland79495
I know it's very 'bad form' to 'muscle in' on someone's thread with a topic that has absolutely nothing to do with the subject under discussion, so I'm not going to. Thus could Ol Baillie e-mail me on martynlnutland@gmail.com or martyn.nutland@gmail.com so I can ask him something about Austin Seven Rubies!

All the best. Martyn Nutland
9 May 2017 at 20:51 #297351
Ian P
Participant
@ianp
Geoff

I've followed this thread off and on for a couple of years and every time I see the thread title keep meaning to ask what the 'ARQ' stands for?

Ian P (ex Austin 'Nippy' owner)
10 May 2017 at 08:19 #297409
Brian H
Participant
@brianh50089
Posted by Ian Phillips on 09/05/2017 20:51:24:

Geoff

I've followed this thread off and on for a couple of years and every time I see the thread title keep meaning to ask what the 'ARQ' stands for?

Ian P (ex Austin 'Nippy' owner)

ARQ doesn't stand for anything, it's just a code that Austins used and means "Ruby (cowled radiator), low frame, no bumpers"

"http://a7ca.org/austin-seven/models/ "gives a full list

Brian
10 May 2017 at 09:02 #297418
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by Brian Hutchings on 10/05/2017 08:19:38:

ARQ doesn't stand for anything, it's just a code that Austins used and means "Ruby (cowled radiator), low frame, no bumpers"

.

Unlikely as it may be …

Wouldn't it be nice to think that ARQ stood for Austin Ruby Q-Car

**LINK**

Buying Guide: the best high performance ‘Q-cars’ for keeping a low profile

MichaelG.
10 May 2017 at 10:41 #297431
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Time to respond:

Dave,

I will be doing butt welds for all repairs as I do not like lap joins, even when jogged.

Water traps par excellence as the one on the NS door was.

Your comment was proven when I removed the lap patches from the inner rear arches. Ugly doesn't describe the rust underneath.

There are more of the same on the two front extensions that the front Mud Shields (wings) bolt onto.

John,

Thanks for your kind comment.

Martyn,

Will do.

Ian,

My interpretation: ARQ = Aren't Rubies Quaint

Brian has it spot on as all Sevens are identified by those 2-3 letters.

Mine, however, does have bumpers and Sliding Roof, it being the so called 'Luxury' model.

Would love to know how those letters where arrived at.

Time to visit local steel merchant to get some 1/1.2mm sheet steel to practice stretching, using hammer then air hammer with blunted chisel as mentioned on another site.

Geoff – Updates to follow.
22 May 2017 at 14:01 #299161
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Been using the MIG to weld patches in the front Mud Shields (Wings) of the Seven.

Whenever I read about how hard MIG welds where in comparison to OA/TIG, I always thought 'How much harder can they be?'

'Add your favourite AngloSaxon here' HARD that's what!

Couldn't believe it when I tried a file and it just skated over the blob.

Used TIG to fill holes then ground the welds down and the difference in the quantity and type of spark produced was eye opening, with MIG winning hands down.

Photos to follow when done

Geoff – TIG from now on especially for panel work.
3 July 2017 at 18:06 #305382
OuBallie
Participant
@ouballie
Ruby body back in the Carport, only four months later than planned so nothing unusual then.

My DIY car trolleys made moving the body a doddle.

**LINK**

Still can't figure out how to embed video.

Geoff – Need to update with more photos

Edited By OuBallie on 03/07/2017 18:08:09
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