0.5mm hole drilling

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0.5mm hole drilling

Home Forums Hints And Tips for model engineers 0.5mm hole drilling

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  • #80263
    Paul Townsend
    Participant
      @paultownsend80910
      I have a number of 0.5mm holes to drill in silver steel or mild steel and have had trouble with drills jamming and breaking on break through.
       
      Any tips available?
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      #30360
      Paul Townsend
      Participant
        @paultownsend80910
        #80266
        David Littlewood
        Participant
          @davidlittlewood51847
          Paul,
           
          See the recent thread Here where it was discussed in detail.
           
          You shouldn’t normally (assuming a perpendicular hole) have too much trouble on break through with steel (worse on brass and other Cu alloys) but if so, put a thin steel backing sheet behind.
           
          David

          Edited By David Littlewood on 22/12/2011 14:32:53

          #80287
          alan frost
          Participant
            @alanfrost17805
            I would recommend the purchase of the Arc Eurotrade microdrill adaptor mit appropriate chuck. One of the bargains of the century if you look at what these things normally cost even from good value suppliers like J and L. No connection with any of them (or even with reality)-just a happy customer of both..
            #80302
            Paul Townsend
            Participant
              @paultownsend80910
              Ta for responses.
              The holes are for pinning loco driver wheels to 1/8″ axles in 4mm scale and are at 45degrees.
              I have a jig which helps file an angled flat on the axle end (machined off after drilling) so the drill starts perpendicular to the surface, hence progresses easily with my high speed drill press, the axle is clamped in the 45degree jig. The breakthrough is then at 45 degrees in the round surface and that is where breakage is high. I am wondering if some sort of sleeve slipped on the axle while drilling would help. If so what material is recommended?
              A friend has recommended using an archimedes drill instead of HS machine.
              I will try the Arc adaptor.
              #80303
              JasonB
              Moderator
                @jasonb
                Yes I’d make a sleeve or “U” shaped block of the same material to run the drill into so in effect it never breaks out into air or a softer material.
                 
                J
                #80388
                MICHAEL WILLIAMS
                Participant
                  @michaelwilliams41215
                  Hi Paul ,
                   
                  Have a look at the lathe mounted Levin microdrilling system for ideas on this . The general idea is that a very little high speed drill press is fitted with a micrometer depth stop . Instead of setting the depth stop to the finished depth in the normal way you set it just under the drilling spindles current position . The drill works by the user pushing down gently on the operating handle while slowly and evenly lowering the depth stop using its micrometer wheel . Thus rate of feed and depth of cut are entirely controlled by the stop and drilling cannot proceed too fast or overrun . Also at any time the drill may be withdrawn using the operating lever and returned to the exact same depth it was released from . Levin microdrilling system can drill holes down to .004 inch .
                   
                  If you have a look at Levin site make sure you look at the lathe based drilling system not the delightful but conventional watchmakers drill they also have .
                   
                  MW
                   
                   
                   
                  #80390
                  David Littlewood
                  Participant
                    @davidlittlewood51847
                    To drill a hole in an angled surface, it can be quite useful to start it with a slot drill. For this use you can get away with using a drill chuck as there is little sideways pressure. This is also useful for starting holes in lost wax brass castings with uneven finishes.
                     
                    I suppose you could minimise problems on breakout by continuing all the way through, though most times the slot drill would not be long enough.
                     
                    David

                    Edited By David Littlewood on 24/12/2011 13:36:58

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