If you mean saloon as opposed to hatchback then it gets more difficult. I too am unable to get locos to the track as old age means I can't lift them any more. That's why I'm making a smaller one, bit of a race between finishing it and decrepitude. It's even more problematical in my case as there are 2 steps down from the only available door, and the drive is then on a 1 in 10 slope away. What I'm considering is a bit of track made from angle in the boot arranged across the car but with a pivot at one end. Then it can be swung out around a vertical pivot to line up with either a trolley at my end, or the unloading ramp at the club. I only then have to lift half the weight at worst. If I allow a bit of a hinge about an axis across the rails it will accommodate minor height issues. If the loco is fairly heavy it makes the back of the car go down as it is loaded in.

If you have a high sill at the back of the boot even this gets to be an issue. When you've sorted it let us know so I can copy.

Off the wall idea, you can get a sort of crane arrangement for lifting invali9d scooters into the boot. These fasten somehow into the boot, so should be fairly stable. If you go down this route make sure the slinging prevents the loco rotating about its long axis. crane Not sure how well it goes with a saloon tho, and I'll bet they are not cheap

This is what I use. It is simple scissor frame pivoted onto the lower frame and upper frame at one one. The other ends have sealed bearings run along the upper and lower frames. A car scissor jack provides the movement to raise and lower the upper frame and is arrange to give around a 2:1 motion ratio. No fancy machining needed, cheap to build, does not take up a huge amount of room and the loco can live on it in the workshop or garage which at present my Super Simplex does. If you want some more detailed photos let me know.

Edited By Dave Smith 14 on 11/10/2021 18:52:30

My loco is firmly fixed inside a sturdy ply transport box – full 6 sides it also hides it from view if necessary. Moving is then a case of how do you move any 150lb wooden crate, though don't get carried away. You may have emptied the side tanks but did you remember the lubricator was still full .

Ex warehouse hydraulic flat topped lifting table move locos, lathes, other strange things though the minimum height of 1ft meant I had to make the storage trolley higher.

Incidently what is the best car for a model engineer? I wish I had bought one of those van derived cars like Peugot Partner etc. Hoping they bring out a hybrid version of that style before my Fiesta wears out and the world goes impractically all electric.

I have never owned sedan cars, only station wagons. I see no disadvantage. When my old Camrey 1993 got rusty, I bought my brother’s Subaru Liberty wagon. However I discovered to my absolute horror that the rear seats don’t fold flat, as they always have done on wagons. Traditional wagons like Holdens and Falcons had longer chassis than the sedan equivalent and could fit heaps of stuff on a flat deck. None are made anymore, giving way to these so called SUVs which are no substitute at all.
I can get my Simplex in the Subaru alright, but not my Sprinkbok. I built a raised plywood deck for it but it is a poor solution. Club members have wagons, trailers, hatch backs, vans and SUVs. Not one lifts a loco out of a car boot.

The way I do it – it works for me.
Machine Mart, extended with plywood gives more area for working and easier access to car. Removable end-stop to prevent rolling off.

Use over-run rails to get up and under for quick jobs.

What would I do differently – buy a truck which went lower – going low is at least as important as going high!

Get on better without rails – easier to move loco around on the top.

Like I say, how I do it – not saying anyone else should – you get the drift. Pictures may work – if not, you'll have to imagine it!

Loads of great examples here. I have just ordered a hydraulic table myself, in my wife's name as she will sign for it.

I used to do a lot of stuff with cranes and handling aids for my job, both design and use.

Generally its worth remembering that if its too heavy to lift its dangerous so buy bits and equipment that does the job, don't see how little metal you can use, use chunky stuff that fits the hand and survives errors. Its cheap, why not?

Secondly it needs to be held down in the car as well as a person, that means big bolts and brackets. Someone decided to broadside my car once and it shunted everything, its not about you driving carefully.