wheels and loctite

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wheels and loctite

This topic has 9 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 31 August 2010 at 20:40 by ray r.

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30 August 2010 at 16:59 #54894
Bob Lamb
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@boblamb44747
I would really be grateful if someone would tell me which loctite to use to fix 3 1/2″ driving wheels to the axles. Should I also pin them? I managed to press on the pony truck wheels OK by following LBSC to the letter but I am a bit worried about the quartering having read that the wheels might twist slightly when pressing them home. Also any suggestions welcomed on which of the many quartering methods / jigs is easiest, simplest and most successful – I don’t want much do I?

Thanks in advance

Bob
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30 August 2010 at 16:59 #974
Bob Lamb
Participant
@boblamb44747
30 August 2010 at 17:27 #54896
chris stephens
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@chrisstephens63393
Loctite 638 is the strong one.

Ned
31 August 2010 at 00:26 #54909
Nicholas Farr
Participant
@nicholasfarr14254
Hi, 638 is a high strength with a diametrical clearance of up to 0.25 mm, 603 is the same high strength but with a clearance only up to 0.1mm. Both these reach thier handling strength in only 8 minutes so you must be sure that you get your wheels in the correct alinment without to much hanging around. Once this stuff is set you will have to heat the whole joint to 250 C if you need to remove it. 641 and 668 are both medium strengths and are for clearances of up to 0.1mm and 0.15mm respectivly and have a handling strength in 30 minutes and are more easily dismantelled if the need arises.

Hope this helps.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 31/08/2010 00:28:17
31 August 2010 at 05:10 #54911
SpringbokB1
Participant
@springbokb1
In 2007 a local Fastenal dealer held a Supplier Show where various suppliers displayed their wares with representatives to answer questions and sell their goods. One of the stands was Loctites which was most fortunate for me because I was then trying to find out what version of Loctite I should use for fixing the driving wheels to the axles on the 5″ gauge Springbok I am building. The representative recommended Loctite 620 which has the highest shear strength of all the cylindrical retaining compounds listed – 3,800 psi – has a permitted diametrical clearance of 15 thou, a Setup time of 30 minutes and Full Strength curing time of 24 hours. It is also temperature resistant up to 450 degrees C. Loctite Primer 7471 T is recommended for use with the Loctite 620 although I did not have any and am completely satisfied with end result without it. At the show I was given a 50 plus page Loctite Maintenance Solutions manual which is a very useful reference.
31 August 2010 at 06:59 #54912
John Olsen
Participant
@johnolsen79199
I’ve been using the 620 for various applications around the workshop, although not loco wheels, with good results. One thing I would say is that the 7471 primer is something you want to use with good ventilation, it is pretty acrid sort of stuff. I dpn’t know if it is especially hazardous as such, it has the normal sort of warnings of any aerosol, and the only ingredient they actually list is acetone, apart from the propellant of course. But the smell is not an acetone smell! So it may not be particularly poisonous as such, but it sure smells like it. The idea is to go away for the recommended 15 minutes drying time, but I am sure your own sinuses will give you that idea pretty quickly anyway.

regards

John
31 August 2010 at 09:04 #54916
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
603 is also oil tolerant, so any contamination of the parts is less of a problem. If you use a high diametral clearance type, how do you ensure that the wheels remain truly square to the axles?
31 August 2010 at 10:52 #54920
DMB
Participant
@dmb
Hi all,

I remember a loco. construction series where the builder (Les Wharnett?) described initial machining of the portion of axle which would end up `inside` the wheel, to correctly

fit tightly, then M/C away the middle part to required diameter for the Loctite, leaving two lands about 1 / 32 nd inch each end of wheelseat as a guide to accurately locate wheel.

I am fairly sute it was the Lynton & Barnstaple loco described a few years ago in Eingineering In Miniature.

I would follow the above for ALL wheels or any other `shaft-in-a-hole.` Where there is a twisting force as in Driving wheels or gears on a shaft, I would also use some sort of pin,peg,wedge, spline or key – you know, the appropriate `mechanical` method of securing a shaft in a hole.

Good luck, Bob,John.
31 August 2010 at 18:11 #54940
Bob Lamb
Participant
@boblamb44747
Thank you to all who have replied – KWIL’s thoughts on “wobbly wheels” was something that troubled me if I left too much slack for the glue and John’s suggestion of relieving the centre of the axle seat seems a good solution. The 638 is now hopefully in the post and I will try my best to quarter them accurately. If it all turns properly I intend to pin them.

Thanks again for a great forum – Bob
31 August 2010 at 20:40 #54948
ray r
Participant
@rayr
Hi all,new on here.With regards to pinning wheels,I used Loctite (think it was 602) & secured the wheels to the axle by drilling half in the axle & wheel starting with a centre drill,then no.31 & then1/8 to givea close fitting hole for a silver steel pin.

The loco by the way is a Clarksons 5″ g 2-10 -0.

Regards,Ray.
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