Abrasive tape/paper recommendations please

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Abrasive tape/paper recommendations please

Home Forums General Questions Abrasive tape/paper recommendations please

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  • #793140
    Richard Evans 2
    Participant
      @richardevans2

      I have a number of small brass castings to clean up and finish to a decent polish. Can anyone recommend good cloth backed tape? I imagine I’ll probably use 240/400/600 grits after I’ve got the rough off. I’m after flexible backing, good quality, long life, not cheapest. I want to get the time down, it’s pretty tedious work.

       

      Thanks

      Richard

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      #793159
      Russell Eberhardt
      Participant
        @russelleberhardt48058

        If you want a really good finish look for MICRO-MESH.  Available in assorted sets from 1500 to 12,000 grit.  Use with water and wash after use and they will last for years.

        Russell

        #793164
        Richard Evans 2
        Participant
          @richardevans2

          Thanks Russell, it’s really the earlier stages I’m talking about. These things (musical instrument keys) will be polished on a wheel followed by silver plating, then final polish.

          #793176
          bernard towers
          Participant
            @bernardtowers37738

            Would 3M deburing wheels be any good, available in various Dias, widths and grades. I use them for deburring stainless after machining and then to polishing.

            #793270
            Richard Evans 2
            Participant
              @richardevans2

              Thanks for the idea Bernard but won’t work in this situation. Needs greater precision to maintain unrounded edges etc.

              #793271
              noel shelley
              Participant
                @noelshelley55608

                Hi Richard, I used to produce descriptive plaques in cast brass. The polishing process started with a 6″ wide linisher, with I think a 180 grit belt,then 3M unitised discs a woven material and then 3 stages of buffing wheel. If anything is going to round the edges it’s the buffing, this needs to be done VERY carefully. The border of a plaque needed a good sharp and well defined edge.

                If using electric power tools be warned of the hazard of fine brass dust building up inside motors and becoming conductive leading to short circuit and failure. Depending on how much work you have this issue can apply to other electrical equipment near by or even in the same room. Noel.

                #793272
                Juddy
                Participant
                  @juddy

                  This type of thing, I found it works well with a sort of sawing action over rough castings:

                  Shop 314D Abrasive Utility Cloth Rolls | Zoro UK Business Supplies

                   

                   

                  #793303
                  bernard towers
                  Participant
                    @bernardtowers37738

                    the rounded edges are achieved by an over zealous operator just be a bit more careful, Ihave to admit not having rounded edges and it does make a difference what angles and directions you use on the parts.

                    #793353
                    Paul Lousick
                    Participant
                      @paullousick59116

                      I use “Flex” polishing disks for brass (available up to 1000 grit). Then finish with brass polish and a soft cotton buffing wheel held on an arbor on the lathe. Bench grinder speed too fast for polishing small parts.

                      Polishing disk

                      #793377
                      JasonB
                      Moderator
                        @jasonb

                        Although I don’t often finish casting so smoothly I do finish CNC machined parts where the finishing cuts can leave a series of scallops.

                        I start with fine files and then needle files for tighter spots. Then onto abrasive, 240 is a bit fine to start with if you want to get the job done in a reasonable time then start with 120 and work through 180 and 240 which is where I tend to stop for painte dsurfaces, if it is say a bright flywheel rin or a crankcase that is going to get bead blasted then I’ll go 320 and 400.

                        This was cast iron off the machine

                        20250327_163547

                        Filed and taken to 240

                        20250415_101725

                        20250415_101749

                        The aluminium was also taken to 240 from a similar starting point, both will be painted so no need for more but Garyflex blocks are also quite good when you run out of grits on cloth.

                        20250415_101900

                         

                        I quite like the Hermes “JFLEX” as it is not too stiff and the abrasive stay stuck to the cloth where as the cheapstuff it just drops off. For flat areas I tend to hold a strip along the length of a 6″ file and more curved work a longer strip use in “shoeshine” fashion works well.

                        This crankcase was hand finished with grey Garyflex after files and cloth to a nice satin finish.

                        HPIM1528

                        #793474
                        Richard Evans 2
                        Participant
                          @richardevans2

                          Thank you all very much for taking the trouble to respond, particularly Jason for posting photos. I’ll look into the various suggestions, up till now I’ve been using J-Flex wrapped round a warding file, I may well end up continuing that way.

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