Collet holder

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Collet holder

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  • #789430
    Paul Radford
    Participant
      @paulradford79614
      1. I have a collet which is stamped Vs which I believe is Schaublin? Does anybody know where I can get a collet holder to fit this please? c7017baf-f4fb-4488-99d1-d1c1e610dda13164855c-a074-468f-92ce-cd5b748c9738c25949db-be0d-402a-80d0-3a525ae1b5beb7421a39-68f3-4e67-9c24-55a68b780fb7d531da82-f9a1-4217-9e99-04540ed1e929
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      #789433
      bernard towers
      Participant
        @bernardtowers37738

        If you have the spec why not make one?

        #789435
        Paul Radford
        Participant
          @paulradford79614

          I’m a novice so not ready to make one yet!!

          #789443
          Emgee
          Participant
            @emgee

            Looks like an ES25 to me, similar dimensions as the ER25 but without the withdrawal groove so is sometimes difficult to remove from the chuck unless there is access from the back end to poke it with a drift.

            Emgee

             

            #789447
            bernard towers
            Participant
              @bernardtowers37738

              You will always be a novice if you do not try, go on push yourself! Not everything comes out of a pretty box.

              #789454
              DC31k
              Participant
                @dc31k

                As above, the collet is a Schaublin one. It has the same dimensions as a modern ER collet. You can look up ER collet dimensions and confirm the suggestion that it belongs to the 25 series.

                The difference between the Schaublin collets and ER collets is the retaining groove in the ER collet and the lug in the nut that registers in that groove and pulls the collet from its seat when the nut is loosened. See:

                https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collets/ER25-Collets

                If you want to use it, the easiest way is to buy a standard ER25 holder and retaining nut and modify the nut. You can buy ER25 nuts alone (around £5.50), so you could buy a spare one and practice on that. If your attempts are not successful, you would still have a chuck and nut that could be used with modern collets.

                When considering options, bear in mind that ER25 collets are £5-£6 each brand new.

                #789485
                SillyOldDuffer
                Moderator
                  @sillyoldduffer

                  The obvious place, if one cannot be found second-hand, is Schaublin!

                  First warning sign is “REQUEST QUOTATION”, which often means “if you have to ask you can’t afford it”.   Make sure your pacemaker is in good working order before asking, and you may find their chucks have heavy industrial fittings, not MT or R8.

                  Problem is Schaublin collets are high-end precision to fit a high-end precision chuck made for a high-end precision tool.  All expensive, and they work in combination to achieve high accuracy.   A Schaublin collet fitted to an ordinary machine tool won’t perform better than an ordinary collet system.

                  A single Schaublin collet makes no sense in my workshop:

                  • I rarely work to better than 0.02mm.
                  • My equipment is hobby modest, the lathe has an MT spindle, and it’s far from Schlaubin Swiss accurate!
                  • ER collets and chucks are affordable, widely available, , and more accurate than my lathe and mill.   A good compromise.  Not universal, and for serious collet work my first choice would be 5C, not Schaulblin, for cost and availability reasons.
                  • Collet work usually requires several different sizes: a set, not just one.  Schaulblin collets aren’t common, so although they turn up, finding them at the right price and condition may take time.  In sharp contrast ER are dead easy to source, and there is plenty of 5C about.  Collets and chucks – no problem.

                  From where I am, putting a Schlaublin collet to work risks falling into a time consuming money pit, only worth doing if there’s a good reason.  Only Paul can judge whether this is worth his while.

                  A deeper issue for newcomers to think about: do you need the best of all possible tools?   The answer is a resounding no, unless there’s a known requirement for them.    Traditional advice is to buy the best because it will last a lifetime and hold it’s value.   This was correct 70 years ago when young men bought tools as a long lasting investment.  Back then many tools were ‘too cheap’, best avoided, so sensible to cough up for better.  All change!  Now most newcomers are approaching retirement, and it’s not sensible  for them to waste money on equipment that will last longer than the owner. Might end up in a skip if the grieving family don’t know what to do with it.  Manufacturing improvements have put a lot of mid-range tooling on the market, which is plenty good enough for most hobby purposes, and cheap to replace / upgrade.   And it doesn’t matter much if an entire mid-range workshop ends up being scrapped.

                  Dave

                  #789495
                  Martin Connelly
                  Participant
                    @martinconnelly55370

                    Just to add to what S.O.D said, high precision tooling is often required in industry because the time spent setting things up to run true in a lathe or the fiddling around to set up an odd shape for milling is basically wasting money. If you are making batches of one hundred identical parts you want to be able to just put the part in and know it will be running true for the next turning operation or correctly positioned for milling. A factory has many overheads, the cost of wages, heating or lighting for example. The overheads have to be paid for out of the money coming in from what is produced. The overhead cost is added to everything on a cost per hour basis so a current cost per hour may be as much as £100 to cover all the costs and end up with a small profit. So making 100 parts where you spend say 6 minutes having to set it up becomes an additional £10 of cost per part costing a total £1000 for the batch. If you can do it with one repeatable setup this becomes a cost saving of maybe £990 off the £1000 of setup time costs. So quality and high accuracy tooling or jigs can soon pay for themselves. For home machinists we do not usually make large batches where we have to worry about the cost of the time spent doing something, so good enough tooling makes more sense. Really bad tooling will just make the experience one to forget.

                    Martin C

                    #789497
                    John Haine
                    Participant
                      @johnhaine32865

                      If you’re dead set on using just one collet these people might be able to help. https://www.floydautomatic.co.uk/

                      #789509
                      DC31k
                      Participant
                        @dc31k

                        The collets were also sold by and used in Emco machines:

                        https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173893670099

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