Congratulations!

Risk:   You only need a certificate to steam in public.   Testing the engine at home safely is up to you.   Consider a hydraulic test, otherwise fire it up with suitable precautions.  Safety glasses, screen, water proof apron, mask etc and of course don’t have all the grandchildren next to it.   Unlikely to badly wrong, but even small quantities of metal and boiling water flying about might have nasty consequences.

Water:  Probably unnecessary to fuss.  Tap-water should be fine for a test, unless Cambridge Water is exceptionally hard.   Water from a butt will be soft (good for boilers), but may be contaminated with bird poo, vegetable matter, and creepy crawlies.   If not clean, filter it.  Tumble drier,  dehumidifier and defrosted fridge water are  also liable to physical contamination.  Fluff, dirt from the air etc.    Again, filter if necessary.     Fill deionised water if worried.   Also possible to mix these:  a 50/50 mix of hard tap water with butt water will be 50% softer!

Coal:  Tricky if you buy it from a coal merchant, DIY store, Garden Centre or garage. It’s because these outlets cater for customers buying smokeless fuel that meets Clean Air requirements.   These vendors do not cater for Model Engine drivers, except by accident!  Don’t ask for ‘House Coal’, it doesn’t mean ‘coal wot I burn in a grate at home’ – it’s a legally defined type of dirty Bituminous coal responsible for smog.   It’s not particularly suitable for engines either.  Whilst Bituminous coal is banned, clean, engine friendly hard Anthracite coals like Welsh Steam Coal aren’t, but not many vendors stock it, or sell it in small bags.   Here I think the internet is your friend!   The main problem is high postage costs compared with a local merchant selling in bulk.  Ask your club – they might be organised to buy steam coal by the ton and then sell it in small quantities to members at cost-price.

Dave

A tea or even better a nylon coffee filter and the water butt will do for the water. An oil can of SAE 30 car engine oil or a 15/40 grade will do for the motion. A half liter can of STEAM oil from one of the many model suppliers for the cylinder lubricator. Coal, I use Signal Fuels size “grains” (about pea sized) and buy 2 bags each year at the Midland show, at a very reasonable price also saves postage. My loco is a 5″ but the above will work.

The hair drier is NOT a good idea. Using the venturi effect and an air compressor you can soon lash up something that will suck, you only need a gentle draw, an old car heater blower will work if the fan is not plastic. Another better option is the fan out of a gas boiler and change the motor for a 12v one ( if the motor is a 240v unit you may be able to use it at home but be CAREFUL )

If your stuck for coal send me a PM, I’m near Kings Lynn.    Good Luck Noel.

PS Who did the Hydraulic test ?

For blowers, we ‘generally suck’ the combustion products up the lum (chimney ). If we blow through the grate it can blow it out the fire door etc. The purpose of ‘draughting’ in a locomotive is to create a vacuum in the smoke box. So do follow the advice above and make a simple blower. The easiest is a compressed air venturi pipe. I even steamed a 3 1/2″ gauge engine with one of these and a bicycle pump back in the day ! Easy to make….  Or a simple electric blower, they are also available ready made to buy from the main suppliers or as a kit of parts. You’ll need it eventually…..

All the best.

D K Till & Son-in-law in Histon can sell you anthracite beans by the 25kg bag.

https://www.dktill.co.uk/

Highly recommended.