Material to make studs – EN1A??

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Material to make studs – EN1A??

This topic has 6 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 25 February 2025 at 01:23 by peak4.

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24 February 2025 at 21:48 #785584
flatline
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@flatline
Firstly my apologies -as a similar question has recently been asked… However, my application is slightly different & I am very much a newbie, so…

I am running a Myford Super-7, and am upgrading the vertical-slide and vice to some newer more rigid items. I have bought some T-slot blanks, and would like to turn some studs to bolt the vice to the vertical-slide… As has been mentioned elsewhere I also have to hand some EN1A, which I can turn down to 7mm-dia to match the mounting holes in the vice, and then cut threads to attach to the T-slot blank & then use suitable nuts, washers, etc..

So my question is will EN1A have sufficient tensile-strength in this application?? I accept that it would be fair easier to go out and buy some bolts/studs ‘off-the-shelf’, but the idea of manufacturing my own parts to suit has far more appeal.

Many thanks in advance for any advice.
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24 February 2025 at 22:17 #785586
SillyOldDuffer
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@sillyoldduffer
Yes, go for it. Though not a strong steel a 25mm diameter EN1A rod will support a weight of about 15 tons, plenty enough for studding on a lathe.

I expect you know of the need to ensure the thread end of a t-nut should be dinged to stop studs jacking them? If jacking happens the stud can break the lathe slots because cast-iron is weaker than EN1a.

EN1A is unsuitable when safety matters. Brakes and such need a higher safety factor, better corrosion resistance, and cut threads are relatively weak too. As your lathe application isn’t safety critical, EN1a is OK.

Dave
24 February 2025 at 22:26 #785590
flatline
Participant
@flatline
Dave,

thank you for your reply… I am a newbie, so not sure what you mean by “the thread end of a t-nut should be dinged to stop studs jacking them”…

Also, I am planning to run the T-slot ‘blank’ the full length of the slot (approx 4”) to spread the load a little… If you think this would help??
24 February 2025 at 22:26 #785591
howardb
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@howardb
EN1A, also known as 230M07. EN1A is low carbon mild steel. Properties: free cutting, suitable for machining using both automatic and CNC machines.

Not suitable for bolts, studs etc it’s soft , not tough enough.

If you must make studs use something like EN8.

EN8 also know as 080M40. An unalloyed medium carbon steel. EN8 is a medium strength steel, good tensile strength. Suitable for shafts, stressed pins, studs, keys etc.

Or buy lengths of studding 8.8 grade,usual sizes are even numbers 6,8,2,10, 12 etc.

Or buy 8.8. or 10.9 grade hex head machine screws and modify the heads so they fit in the tee-slot.
24 February 2025 at 23:36 #785597
Julie Ann
Participant
@julieann
I am using EN3B for all the studs on my scale traction engine, as it is commonly used on full size engines:

It is much less prone to rust than EN1A.

Julie
24 February 2025 at 23:55 #785599
Charles Lamont
Participant
@charleslamont71117
I disagree with Howardb. In the application as T-slot bolts no great strength is required and EN1A will be perfectly adequate.
25 February 2025 at 01:23 #785605
peak4
Participant
@peak4
On 24 February 2025 at 22:26 flatline Said:

Dave,

thank you for your reply… I am a newbie, so not sure what you mean by “the thread end of a t-nut should be dinged to stop studs jacking them”…

Also, I am planning to run the T-slot ‘blank’ the full length of the slot (approx 4”) to spread the load a little… If you think this would help??

Having full length T nuts probably doesn’t spread the load much, but certainly makes for easier assembly.

Re. dinging the threads; consider the T nut this way up ╩ with a threaded through hole, and slid into a T slot on the cross slide.
If you can screw a stud or bolt all the way through, such that it presses against the bottom of the T slot, then it’s possible to exert so much force that you break a lump of cast iron from the top of the T slot.
Personally, when the hole has bee threaded, I just invert the nut and use a wide punch to damage the end few threads of the threaded hole.
That way the stud has enough engagement, but doesn’t push the nut upwards when the vice isn’t present.
When tightening the normal hex nut onto the stud to bolt the vice or slide down, tightening hard is less of an issue, as you are pulling the ╩ nut upwards against the body of the vice, which supports the top of the slot.

Bill
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