Between the bottom of the quill and your male taper (probably a JT6 ) there should be a knurled ring , it looks like its there from the photo 

If you unscrew this it will reveal a hole in the side you can put a pin spanner in.

Keep unscrewing and the chuck should hopefully pop off.

Edited By T.B on 31/10/2015 23:01:23

Edited By T.B on 31/10/2015 23:02:00

Hopefully a picture speaks a thousand words !

I've wound the collar down so its more visible

Ian,

If I'm drilling through a round bar clamped in the drill vice I clamp a piece of round ground bar about 6mm diameter with a point turned on the end in the chuck. I use the old tried and tested (but probably not very accurate) method of balancing an old steel rule across the bar and I find that by applying light downward pressure on the rule and then locking the quill, I have both hands free for finely adjusting the position of the vice until the rule is horizontal with respect to the drill axis.

I'm sure that there are lots of other uses for this lock, but I use this one regularly.

Gordon

Before fitting any chuck which locates on a Jacobs taper, a trick I have always used is to drill and tap a hole through the back of the chuck. Six mil or 1/4 BSF is about right for a 1/2 inch/13mm chuck. Then, if the chuck won't come off the taper when required, you can insert a long Allen screw through the hole and bring pressure to bear on the end of the taper. Hope this isn't too garbled, but it does work.

Get a spacer to go between the knurled ring and the chuck…big washer with a slot cut out to go over teh spindle…

You are still using the knurled collar but just need it to push a little more

Just been down to have a look at my Fobco,bought new 1968,I had it all that time and did not realise that there was a screwed chuck extractor ring,Jacobs chucks were good in those days and has never needed removal, its still as free as it was new, I have found that chucks used in the horizontal mode can get gummed up and stiff,it might be that soluble oil drains out when vertical but can lay inside when in a tailstock,and whe out of the tailstock are invaribly stored upright with the shank in a storage rack ,so the soluble oil cannot drain out,perhaps they should be stored with taper shank up. As for lube I use Halfords 15/40 in my oilcan and have always used good motor oil for over 50 years. dont forget when lubricating the Fobco pull the quill down to expose the the grease nipple set into the quill which lubricates the bearings ,for grease used to get Castrol lithium based grease but it is now difficult to find so just use a multi purpose grease from any motor factor,mine has possibly only been greased every ten years,ok when the drill is only used in the home workshop, over greasing can cause problems, and after 50 years my Fobcos bearings show no sign of wear, A very good drilling machine, in those days no instructions came with the drill,a chuck guard was a extra and no one bothered then, where I worked the drill guards were found ,cleaned up and fitted when we got word of the impending visit from the factory inspector,At least I now know hoy to get the chuck off though at my age I will never need to.

Well I never! Isn't this forum such a wonderful mine of information! I thought I knew my way around a Fobco…

Theo – either oil would be OK for the quill feed, but slideway oil should hang around for longer. If you're an oil-every-day person, or even every week, hydraulic oil should be fine. The better stick-slip properties of slideway oil aren't really important here.

Regarding your previous post… Oiling the column is presumably because you wish to avoid the risk of corrosion. Hydraulic oils contain corrosion inhibitors, but, unless the drill is in a horrible environment, almost anything would do, except detergent oils (most engine oils). Detergent oils can absorb atmospheric water, which may cause corrosion. This isn't usually a problem in an engine, where the oil gets hot enough to evaporate off the water.

Motor mount pins. I'd suggest moly grease. Clamp screw threads, hardly critical, but moly grease again.

Generally, ISO 32 hydraulic oil is a good general-purpose lubricant, formulated with anti-foaming and anti-corrosion additives. It's good for spindles and gearboxes, although a heavier grade may be specified for the latter. Free from detergents, fine particulate contaminants should settle out into the base of a gearbox, rather than be kept in suspension.

Slideway oil is for …slideways, because it doesn't readily slide off surfaces, and is formulated to reduce the problem of 'stick-slip' friction that can be a problem with tight-fitting, slowly moving bearings. In such bearings, there won't usually be a complete oil film separating the opposing surfaces, so the requirements from the lubricant are rather different from high-speed bearings, where a relatively high-pressure oil film is built up by movement.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 20/03/2023 11:23:00

[more edits – typing with fists again…]

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 20/03/2023 11:25:00