Turning small part between centres?

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Turning small part between centres?

Home Forums General Questions Turning small part between centres?

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)
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  • #778390
    Dr_GMJN
    Participant
      @dr_gmjn

      All, I need to make a small shaft about 55 mm long. It is to fit between two bearing blocks, so the shaft will have a c.12 mm diameter central ‘bulge’, with two 8 mm diameter x c.15 mm long spigots either side to fit into the bearings.

      All the cylindrical features need to be coaxial, and also there may be a requirement to turn down the central bulge later depending on experimentation on the device (an equatorial platform for a telescope).

      I assume turning between centres is the way to go, starting by cutting the bar to length and centering the ends. I’m struggling with how to grip the small stock firmly for turning, without damage? The turning dog I’ve got is way too big for this job.

      Also, I’m turning from 12 mm A/F hex leaded EN1A stock because that’s all I’ve got spare at the moment.

      Any advice on quick ways to make an improvised driving dog?

      Thanks.

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      #778393
      Peter Cook 6
      Participant
        @petercook6

        If your driving end has a pin sticking out, you could always use a shaft collar. Replace the grub screw with a longer bolt that reaches beyond the drive pin. I bought a cheap set  with multiple sizes for the purpose.

        #778398
        John Haine
        Participant
          @johnhaine32865

          Have you got any collets?  Clockmakers would turn the two pivots with the work in a collet.  You could turn the 12mm dia in a 3-jaw, then centre in a 4-jaw to make the pivoty bits?  Or use a collet if you have one.

          #778404
          JasonB
          Moderator
            @jasonb

            Put a bit of packing between the work and the screw in your dog, unless it is massive it will grip 12mm and then the reduced dia no problem.

            Alternative is to make a driver from a bit of scrap aluminium.

            #778409
            Andrew Crow
            Participant
              @andrewcrow91475

              For turning small jobs between centres it is useful to make a small carrier, either from a disc with a hole a little bigger than your job and a grub screw to attach it to the job, or like a small tap wrench without the long arms.

              In either case drill and tap for a bolt to act as a drive dog.

              Finish the job to length, rough out the two journals and centre drill both ends.

              Turn up centre in the chuck from small piece of steel rather than removing the chuck and using one in the lathe spindle, then fit your carrier which can be driven by one of the chuck jaws.

              Don’t forget to protect your finished journal with a small piece of brass before turning the second journal.

              Andy.

              #778410
              Diogenes
              Participant
                @diogenes

                What Peter Cook says – a brass screw would avoid marking. I’ve also ‘sandwiched’ a bar in a notch between a couple of ali. ‘straps’ bolted together either side, with one as a longer ‘leg’ – wire/tape/zip-tie to a bolt through a face plate..

                I think if you want guaranteed concentricity even with ‘de-mountings’ then as you say, B/C is the way to go.

                #778414
                JasonB
                Moderator
                  @jasonb

                  Packer protects the work and lets you hold small items, 4mm dia in this case.

                  20250119_155416

                  #778468
                  ChrisLH
                  Participant
                    @chrislh

                    Made from a piece of 1/4 x 7/8 MS bar. Hole drilled 13 mm and filed to shape. Poor photos but I’m sure you’ll get the ideaIMG_0275Is there any way of putting photos where you want them and at a size that I choose ?

                    #778469
                    JasonB
                    Moderator
                      @jasonb

                      Photo appears where you had the cursor before you clicked the image icon so don’t do it straight after altering something in the middle of your text. Size depends on what you are uploading and the site won’t make it bigger but will reduce it if too large.

                      Rather than a slot for a drive pin you could also tap a hole for a screw which can be driven by the side of a chuck jaw

                      #778472
                      Martin Connelly
                      Participant
                        @martinconnelly55370

                        Jason said a piece of scrap aluminium would make a simple drive dog. If you have turned one end to size then a simple hole in a piece of metal and some Loctite will make a non-marking drive dog to turn the second end then apply some heat to remove the dog and clean off the Loctite with some acetone.

                        Martin C

                        #778475
                        JasonB
                        Moderator
                          @jasonb

                          You still need to drive the material between ctrs to turn the first end so why not just use the same home made dog for both ends.

                          Face stock to length, ctr drill both ends, fit dog to the hex end and mount between ctrs to turn the first 8mm dia. Put dog onto that 8mm and remount between ctrs to turn the other end to 8mm. All between ctrs so should be as concentric as possible.

                          dogs

                          #778476
                          Neil Lickfold
                          Participant
                            @neillickfold44316

                            For small parts, I make shrink drive dogs from Ali and have them round. Can either heat them to fit or split them and then clamp with a small capscrew, like an M3. Tap the side the capscrew head will be to M4. With a piece of plate in the saw slot, the ring can be opened up, placed over the end of the shaft and then released. Often, with an Ø0.02mm diameter shrink fit on an 8mm shaft is more than enough clamping pressure. If you decide to want that extra security or make the hole size closer to actual size, then a M3 capscrew can be used to lock it together.

                            I use M3 with a tapped M4, and also use M4 with a Tapped M5.

                            Neil

                            #778512
                            ChrisLH
                            Participant
                              @chrislh

                              Thanks for this Jason. I’ll go away and practice a bit. No wonder that few posters take advantage of the fact that a picture is worth a thousand words.

                              I take your suggestion re. a tapped hole for a screw. I first made this arrangement for a job where any play in the drive would have been unwelcome so the hex driving pin in the third picture can be twisted and locked so that it is snug in the slot.

                               

                              Carrier 1Carrier 2IMG_0279

                              #778521
                              Chris Gunn
                              Participant
                                @chrisgunn36534

                                As the shaft is only 55mm long, you could turn it all in one go using suitable tooling, centre one end and use a live centre to support the free end, turn all the diameters, do the the 8mm diameter nearest the chuck with a reversed tool, it will be over length by the width of the reverse tool, part it off, then hold the shaft in the chuck to face off the parted end. No faffing about with making drive dogs, and all done at one setting.

                                Chris Gunn

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