Hi Perko7, I’ve never tried it myself, and never heard or seen of it been done, but cleaning all the oxides around the tack, produced by the heat, may prove to be difficult, and could effect how close the silver solder will flow. There maybe an acid flux that will do the job with success though. Tacking with TIG might be a better bet, as these can be very small tacks, and you can allow the shielding gas to continue to flow when the arc stops, which should help stop oxides forming while the area around the tacks cool. but it would be dependent on ones skill.

Regards Nick.

Well, I have used this technique and it works well. At least, for the kinds of thing I was making. The frame stretchers for my Black 5 are fabricated from multiple CNC-cut steel (typically 3mm) components, using tab-and-slot to locate the pieces. On some of these fabrications I have been able to use a strategically-placed through bolt to hold them for silver-soldering but for others, a small touch of MIG weld was enough to keep it together. Wire brush followed by pickling in ultrasonic bath (my usual treatment) seemed to be sufficient before fluxing in the usual way. Didn’t really care about s-s in region of weld as I didn’t need water-tightness and weld replaced s-s for strength in that area anyway.

Why didn’t I just weld the whole thing? Have you seen the quality of my welding? TIG would have been a great choice but I don’t have the kit or the skills to use it!

I would be cautious ! Talk of MIG, TIG, stick, carbon arc, ultrasonic baths Etc The OP has not told us what equipment he has to hand ? For stick the risk of the whole lot falling in a pile as you strike the arc is real unless the jig of frame hold is firm. The shrinkage of the weld will cause serious movement unless allowed for. The removal of slag will be a challenge ! MIG or TIG will avoid the slag issue but shrinkage will be there though to a lesser extent. Brazing with brass will be cheaper than silver but need a higher temperature. Take your pick and Good Luck. Noel.