Dead DRO

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Dead DRO

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  • #777657
    Steve Rowbotham
    Participant
      @steverowbotham77083

      In the midst of milling a cylinder casting for the Halls Rotary engine on my Warco WM16-V mill last night the DRO readout suddenly and very annoyingly (as in I’ve lost my datum) expired. The 2 mains fuses tested to be OK so I opened up the unit to find the internal power supply is working fine and all internal connections seem good, so sadly it appears that the PCB has failed.

      The failed unit is a 2-axis Ditron D60 (badged as Warco) supplied by Warco several years ago, but they don’t sell it any longer. Warco supply a modern equivalent but a) it’s currently out of stock and b) it costs £189.  I have found the actual Ditron unit online but cost is still £150+.

      Before ordering I’m just wondering if anyone has encountered this before and has found a lower cost alternative, or even has a Ditron D60 DRO readout they don’t need ??

       

       

       

      IMG_3019

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      #777660
      Dave Halford
      Participant
        @davehalford22513

        Does the display have a ribbon connector? If so they can loosen.

        #777663
        peterhod
        Participant
          @peterhod

          IMG_20241212_192215935_MFNR (Small)

           

          This LED type is better. They are £115 on eBay much better functionality with visual display of functionality, hole layout etc. I’ve had the ones like yours and sold them on. There seem to be 2 types of wiring for the chinese scales. If you are lucky they will just work if not you will need to swop some wires on the plugs. I have a diagram of scale plug wiring somewhere from when I upgraded to the LCD ones.

          #777668
          KenL
          Participant
            @kenl

            I’ve had a similar problem before with an older Warco fitted DRO – always in cold weather!

            If I warmed up the unit with a hair drier it started working again.

             

            Last winter I removed the cicuit board and went over all the joints with a soldering iron to get rid of any dry joints and haven’t had the problem yet this winter. Having said that I’m tempting fate aren’t I?

             

            Worth trying?

            #777670
            Steve Rowbotham
            Participant
              @steverowbotham77083

              Hi Dave, thanks for the suggestion. It does indeed have a printed ribbon connector as you can see at the bottom of this pic, I checked it is firmly mated.

              On power-up it goes through a self-check routine and the key-press beeper beeps as the display cycles round, but it isn’t beeping either, so it’s not just a display problem.

               

              IMG_3021

              #777673
              Steve Rowbotham
              Participant
                @steverowbotham77083

                 

                 

                 

                #777677
                Steve Rowbotham
                Participant
                  @steverowbotham77083

                  Thanks Peter, will have a look at the LCD devices as an alternative.

                   

                  I will have ago at warming it up Ken to see if Hypothermia is the problem, if so it will be another one down to Rachel Reeves! The PCB is all surface mount so challenging to touch-up the solder joints.

                  #777681
                  SillyOldDuffer
                  Moderator
                    @sillyoldduffer

                    What are the symptoms Steve?  By ‘expired’ I assume totally dead, no smoke, scorch marks, and nothing lights up. If there’s any sign of life, please say what it is.

                    The most common reason electronics fail is mechanical!

                    • Condensation
                    • Corrosion due to condensation
                    • Loose connections or cracked circuit board tracks due to warming and cooling or vibration.
                    • Dirty switch and pot contacts and pots.
                    • Dry joints
                    • Damaged insulation
                    • Overheating
                    • Assembly errors.

                    Quite often, simply reseating plugs and sockets will fix, ideally with a squirt of switch cleaner.  Corrosion requires more aggressive cleaning.  Also check screw terminals and look for loose crimps.

                    Make sure the electronics are dry and well ventilated.

                    Dry joints and cracked traces are easy to fix if you can find them.  A freeze spray helps isolate problem areas.

                    Unfortunately, some mechanical failures result in fatally overstressed electronics.  That’s hard to fix without a circuit, a reasonably good understanding, and the right equipment.   For that reason when my stuff fails, I run through the basic mechanical checks and, unless the problem is fairly obvious, I replace rather than repair.   It’s because my time is valuable and I don’t enjoy repair work.  I assume Steve doesn’t have any test gear, in which case explaining how to diagnose and fix even a mild electronic problem is unlikely to help.

                    Dave

                    #777689
                    Steve Rowbotham
                    Participant
                      @steverowbotham77083

                      Thanks for your very helpful response Dave, the unit has expired as in completely dead. It was working, then all went blank, but no drama as in smoke or a bang. The internal PSU is working and delivering 5v DC to the main PCB, and all connections seem good. On switching on it does nothing, it used to run a self-check cycling the LED displays and beeping as it did so, but now nothing. The PCB appears to be in good condition as can be seen in my earlier post, no damp or mechanical problems, and the environment in the workshop is good – RH approx 60 and temp never falls below 10C which is fine for commercial electronics. Given the PCB is full of surface mount devices I think the only repair feasible would be a new PCB, which would likely be impossible to source, and as you say time is anyway better spent doing enjoyable stuff. But I do need a working DRO, so if no unwanted units are offered I will order a replacement as suggested by Peter.

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