E T Westbury Cygnet Royal – Couple of Questions

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E T Westbury Cygnet Royal – Couple of Questions

Home Forums Work In Progress and completed items E T Westbury Cygnet Royal – Couple of Questions

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  • #777512
    Colin Heseltine
    Participant
      @colinheseltine48622

      I am currently finishing off a Cygnet Royal.  I found the engine early last year at, believe it or not, a watch & clock fair.

      It had no cylinder heads, no mount, no means of connecting steam/air to it, and the steam chest & cover had a couple of different size fixings.

      I stared at it for a few weeks/months ( this time seemed to get longer as also had a radical prostatectomy followed few weeks later by a bad case of sepsis) and finally started on it before Christmas.

      Sorted mismatched threads, made studs, made a base, made brass fittings for steam inlet and exhaust (made harder as the threads in the appropriate parts were not as plan).

      Was now thinking of reassembly and painting.  THEN I took a longer look at the crank, conrods, orbital valve and return crank. Realised that although the builder had drilled and tapped the horizontal oilways in the crank, he had not done the vertical joining oilway, or any way for the oil to get in or out of the crank.  Ditto for the Return crank.  Likewise no oilholes in the little ends of the conrods, or the bronze bush in the master rod.  Unfortunately he had also not machined one side of the orbital valve or the phosphor bronze bushes for the gudgeon pins (which also need shortening).  All these issues other than gudgeon pins have now been resolved.

      Now just waiting for some phosphor bronze to to up in the post.

      This leads me on to a couple of questions:

      1. Would it be wise to make brown paper gaskets for base of cylinder, under cylinder head, main bearing housing to crankcase, and either side of the steam chest.  Or would a smear of Hylomar be enough.

      2. The main bearings do not have any metal or plastic shields.  I guess it would pay to change the bearings to shielded ones to prevent oil loss direct into the crankcase and out via the flywheel end of the crankshaft

      3. As there is no direct means of getting oil to the little ends or to the return crank I assume these are lubricated by oil thrown from the main bearing.  I guess that gradually the crankcase will fill with oil and need emptying regularly.

      Thanks,

      Colin

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      #777516
      bernard towers
      Participant
        @bernardtowers37738

        Colin, I would recommend using proper gasket paper its much stronger for a given thickness and does not leak across the section like brown paper or dare I say cereal packets!!!

        #780142
        Colin Heseltine
        Participant
          @colinheseltine48622

          Thanks Bernard.

          I have now fitted engine with sealed bearings, gaskets using proper gasket paper and assembled it all.  It turns reasonably well but is a little tight.

          It will not run on air.  I am a little confused as to the sequence of the conrods.  I have the Model Engineer issues from Oct 2002 to Dec 2002 which appear to show the rear conrod going to the cylinder on the lower right as you view from the flywheel end, the master rod to the top, and the front to the lower left cylinder.  I also have the Motor Boys plans which appear to show the reverse of this.  To my mind, one of these will be incorrect in relation to the orbital valve and air/or steam will not be admitted correctly.  Can anyone who has built this model tell me which it should be, before I dismantle for the nth time.

          Thanks,

          Colin

          #780146
          JasonB
          Moderator
            @jasonb

            The Drawing that I seems to show both.

            The end view which is from the flywheel end shows the lower right at the front but the section shows the rear going to the lower right.

            Short of drawing it all out in cad I think all you can do is take of the rear cover and watch the movement of the valve to see which cylinder has it’s inlet uncovered at or just after TDC and which has it’s exhabust opened at BDC.

            Also watch the drawing projection on th ereturn crank to make sure the eccentric pin is correctly positione drelative to the crank pin.

            cygnet

            #780197
            Colin Heseltine
            Participant
              @colinheseltine48622

              Have taken it apart again to check the valve position and the rods.  The only way I can see it running is if:

              a) it runs counterclockwise and

              b) the right hand cylinder (viewed from flywheel end) uses the front con rod and the left hand cylinder uses the rear conrod.

              Colin

               

              #780242
              duncan webster 1
              Participant
                @duncanwebster1

                If there is any consistency to the drawing above, the section top left is looking from the flywheel end (not the modern way, ie since 1970s in my experience). I can’t see why swapping the conrod round affects the sequence of the pistons. Can you elucidate?

                Getting the orbital valve just the right thickness so it doesn’t leak or bind must be very tricky, how did you manage it?

                #780254
                Diogenes
                Participant
                  @diogenes

                  If you swap the conrods doesn’t it upset the sequential phasing of events? i.e. as illustrated, one of the lower pistons is already over BDC whilst the other hasn’t yet reached it?

                  #780256
                  JasonB
                  Moderator
                    @jasonb

                    Conrod position front or back should not affect the timing. As I said the return crank and the position of its pin is what times the valve disc. Just like setting a slide valve engines eccentric to lead the crank, 100deg in this case

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