If you can lock the spindle like you can on a Bosch a pair of grips would tighten the chuck up.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 11/08/2015 18:37:08

You can get drills with hex shafts which can't slip in the chuck, but be careful since a lot of the cheaper ones are poorly made and don't run truly. Some time ago I picked up some very well made ones and they are a joy to use.

Doug

Not a good idea. Proper keyless chucks, Albretch et al, self tighten under pressure and need a bit of space to accommodate the small axial shift. If you put the drill in right against the back or if its slips back before self tightening sufficiently to hold firm it will very likely jam up good and proper and be atotal PIA to remove. Pipe wrench or big strap wrench time especially if its a big drill. Yikes! I'm told the undoing process has to pull the drill back drill a thou or three to release the self tighten effect. If the chuck is due for a service it will tend to jam even if the drill is not hard against the back.

Recently had to take the 16 mm Valdus keyless chuck off my big pillar drill for this very reason and need to find out how to get it apart. Got the instructions for Albrecht but is this the same. A 13 mm Albrecht out of the lathe kit makes adecent stop gap tho' as akeyed chuck isn't such a pest on a lathe.

I do the spin up using the motor thing for tightening the chuck on my 14V Makita which doesn't have a spindle lock. Theoretically you can hold the rear ring whilst turning the front but in practice ther isn't enough room for normal hands. Might have been workable if the rear ring were larger diameter but as is you tend to grip both. Fortunately my 18 V Makita has a spindle stop. Tried the under power trick once. Lucky not to loose a deal od skin! In my world two drills are essential for DIY. 18V to make the holes, 14V to set the screws. Life is to short to keep swopping drills for screwdriver bits and back again.

Clive.

Hi Alan, in my experience this is a common problem to these chucks on many makes of drills, both lead and battery types. I've used many different makes in industry and even from new they all seem to suffer this problem. personally I prefer a keyed chuck and if they are tighten correctly they do not have slippage, however that depends on everyone who uses them to tighten them correctly, as once they are allowed to be used with slippage they just get worse.

Regards Nick.

I have an old Bosch drill with a good proper keyed chuck and even that has struggled with 5-6mm bits into steel on my cheapo Lidl drill press

Only my 3.5 inch lathe chuck (a 4 incher) has had the strength to make drilling into steel easy

My tailstock chuck hasn't been too bad but it's pretty big with a diameter of around 52mm, they are very cheap at the moment on a well known auction site and a bit of a bargain (170942390763)

If you could fit one of those to your drill then life could be a lot easier

Edited By Ady1 on 12/08/2015 09:51:00

On a slightly different vane can any one recommend a make of screw driver bits for cordless drills, Phillips Blade etc a range or set. I'm going to Screw Fix today and they have a bewildering range in their catalogue. I've got some at the moment but they must be soft steel and are pretty useless.John

DeWalt coated ones have been OK for me. A flip top pack of no 2 Pozi has lasted for 2 large timber workshops, a decent size house extension and 5 years of DIY in the intervening periods. Not bad considering the two builder guys involved were stealing from the pack too and builders seem to get about 1/3 rd to 1/4 the number of screws per bit as I do. (Is it normal practice for builders to borrow your tools more than they use theirs! ).

Casual observation suggests that one size collections are generally better quality than mixed sets.

I find the longer variety with the turned down section sitting just outside the magnetic bit holder go better than the stubby all hex ones. Especially in the cheapy set collections. I imagine the turned down section gives a bit of torsional flexibility to abosorb that "just a bit too tight" torque that would otherwise lead to cam out, a damged screw and reduced bit life. I keep the shorties for ordianry screwdriver handles. Obviously setting the torque limiter is agreat help to long life as is checking that the bit actually fits the screw properly. There are some right ropy screws out there even from reputable suppliers, Screwfix pan heads can be bad, and trimming back the pointy end of the bit often gives a much better fit. Most of the cheapies are too long in the point. Especially the smaller Phillps ones. Not a bad idea to have some sacrificial cheapies about the place to modify where a good fit on a small screw is needed. Phillips type with the tapered sides on the wings were designed to cam out once the limiting torque was reached so the driver needs all the help it can get.

Clive.

The trouble with an exact phillips head and driver is that they are designed to cam out to make mass production work easier. The Japanese modified the bits and called it JIS. The main change was to the cam out so they are not so inclined to slip. They also must have had better control of the torque settings on the power screw drivers they use for this sort of thing.

For wood screws it probably pays to stick to poxi and be sure to use a poxi drive bit or screw driver with it. The heads of the screws should be marked differently. Think that is on the wiki. There also seems to be some screws about that don't fit into either category.

John

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Edited By John W1 on 12/08/2015 13:07:18

GKN's original Pozidriv is very clearly marked, and very effective.

… BFI archive film here.

My Dad was involved when they introduced them to the U.K. so I learned a bit about the subtleties of the design.

MichaelG.

.

P.S. … John; is 'poxi' the name for the cheap, nasty, copies?

Posidrive was originally invented by Phillips and the American screw company, it was just GKN who brought it to popularity.

Phillips is designed to cam out and prevent over-tightening (originally for assembling light alloy aircraft), Posidrive is designed to take a lot more torque.

In very rough and ready terms, abusing Phillips ruins your screwdriver, abusing Posidrive ruins the screw.

Not a lot of people know that

Neil

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… even fewer know that it's Pozidriv not Posidrive