Strange drilling situation

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Strange drilling situation

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  • #766191
    gerry madden
    Participant
      @gerrymadden53711

      I decided to put an M12 (std. coarse 1.75 pitch) thread in the end of a piece of EN1A bar using the lathe recently. I drilled it to 10mm as that was the largest near-size drill that I had. The ‘recommended’ drilling diameter for M12 is of course 10.2, but as most drills make oversize holes I thought I would get away with the 10mm drill. However it became clear that the taper tap just wasn’t going engage in the hole I’d made so I decided to order and 10.5 drill to make it a little larger. (It was a long thread, so I always like to keep the tap in the tailstock chuck loosely fitted in the tailstock for good initial alignment.)

      After the 10.5 drill arrived I popped it in the tailstock chuck and expected to be able to wind it in with ease to open out the hole. This ‘simple’ op. didn’t go at all well. The drill initially cut, but as it went further in, it got noisy and began to seize.  A couple of times the chuck spun in the MT2 socket and when I fixed that problem, as I continued to try deepen the hole, the lathe was on the point of stalling. The work piece was well over 100C despite my cutting speed only being about 200 RPM. Eventually I gave up as I decided there must be something wrong with this brand new drill. It was a bit of a battle to remove it from the workpiece but that didn’t surprise me after the problems I’d had.

      Since the hole was a bit of a mess now I decided to compromise again on thread depth and just drill the thing out with my unused 11mm drill. However as I started the process, the same issues occurred. Lots of heat and noise. The lathe was stalling again so I stopped and moved the belts over to slow-speed mode. I thinking that perhaps a faster wind-in speed was what was needed, I wound faster on head-stock. Well this wasn’t an improvement at all. The drill seized the chuck yet again and with all the belts squeeling like stuck pigs I hit the emergency stop ! I removed the VERY work-piece from the chuck with the drill stuck in it. In trying to extract the drill, I broke it!!

      I’m totally mystified. I have been drilling and opening out holes on my lathe for 20 years and have never encountered any difficulties like before. In the past, when I have been intending to bore large holes I always tend to run through with drills up to 16mm in small steps and its always been a piece of cake. So what on earth was different this time ?

      One thought I have is that the ‘new’ 10.5 drill, and my off-the-shelf 11mm unused drill, came from the same source within a few months of each other. They both ‘look’ completely normal. But could there be something wrong with the spiral edge perhaps ?

      Anyone have any thoughts on this strange state of affairs ?

      Gerry

       

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      #766192
      Vic
      Participant
        @vic

        Someone recently gave me two 16mm drill bits. Both of them looked pretty sharp. I tried to open up a hole with one the other day and it was very reluctant to cut so I gave up. I then tried the other bit and it cut just fine. Obviously something wrong with the geometry on the first one. Both bits look to have machine made cutting edges?

        #766196
        Clive Brown 1
        Participant
          @clivebrown1

          That behaviour seems what might be expected from a steel that work-hardens, not EN1A. Are you sure of the spec.

          #766197
          JohnF
          Participant
            @johnf59703

            Have you checked the drill diameter with a micrometer both at the tip and further along the length to ensure it is not tapered ?  It should be size at the tip and smaller at the end of the spiral by a small amount –a thou or so.

            I have seen this on some “cheapo” imported unbranded drills when a chap I know had a similar problem.

            #766199
            Kiwi Bloke
            Participant
              @kiwibloke62605

              I second the suggestions of a tapered, bent, or otherwise defective drill bit or rogue material. However, in spite of it being common practice, and what the OP says he’s done for years (as most of us have), I’d suggest that progressively ‘opening up’ drilled holes in small diametrical increments is poor practice. I think it has become popular with home machinists because of machine power and rigidity limitations.

              The practice risks over-loading the drill bit’s corners, and also makes it difficult for the bit to start cutting evenly, thereby tending to produce an oversized hole, or at least its first few mm. Because the total cutting force is low, it’s difficult not to push the drill in with an excessive axial feed. Much better, I believe, is to drill a pilot hole with a bit of about the same diameter as the final bit’s chisel edge, and then go straight to the final size. However, this might be beyond the home shop’s machine capabilities. If so, keep the number of steps to a minimum.

              This is contentious, so I’ll await the brickbats and naysayers’ comments…

              #766203
              Diogenes
              Participant
                @diogenes

                It’s never worth persevering with a drill that doesn’t cut properly from very first contact and the sooner it’s withdrawn the more chance there is of successfully recovering the workpiece (and sometimes the bit).

                As to your question, the answer probably lies in how much confidence you have in the supplier of;

                A) the drill(s)

                B) the material

                 

                 

                 

                 

                 

                #766204
                derek hall 1
                Participant
                  @derekhall1

                  I agree with kiwi, (no brickbats coming from me!) his suggested technique is more or less what I was taught as an apprentice many, many years ago. You have to give the drill some work to do.

                  Maybe first drill a pilot hole of say 5mm, then use your 10.5mm drill.

                  On my Myford I have frequently used the biggest drill I have which is 1 1/8 ins, to open up holes, then I bore the hole to finish to size. I have no problems drilling holes this size using backgear and coolent, I do get some belt slip though, but I am using link belting (another topic)…

                  I think the problem is either the material being drilled, or the drills.

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