Changing a chuck on a battery drill

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Changing a chuck on a battery drill

This topic has 18 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 30 July 2024 at 12:41 by peak4.

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29 July 2024 at 17:26 #744184
Andrew Tinsley
Participant
@andrewtinsley63637
I have an Hitachi Lithium ion battery drill with a 13 mm chuck. Never changed a chuck on a battery drill, so I thought I would ask first “how to do it”. Rather than make a stupid mistake.

Opening up the chuck fully reveals a slotted round head screw at the base of the chuck. I assume that one should unscrew this first (I assume it is right hand thread?). Next move would be to unscrew the chuck from its main thread. The sort of Jacobs taper for such a chuck, on an MT arbour, seems to have a thread at the end, but never seen a retaining screw. like that on the Hitachi drill.

I expect the chuck will be on tight and I am bothered that I may damage the drill gearing if I am ham fisted. Is this a valid worry?

Excuse my queries about what appears to be a straightforward job, but better to ask than make a mess!

I would like to replace the chuck with a good quality unit, any recommendations? There appears to be a huge number of possibilities, but I suspect most of them are dubious Chinese types and it is difficult to tell a good Chinese chuck from a bad one by looking at a photo.

Thanks for any advice,

Andrew.
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29 July 2024 at 17:45 #744188
bernard towers
Participant
@bernardtowers37738
it will likely be lh thread and then fit chuck key, lay drill chuck on solid bench and hit key smartly as if undoing a rh thread. this has worked well for me in the past.
29 July 2024 at 17:58 #744192
larry phelan 1
Participant
@larryphelan1
As Bernard said, it is most likely to be a left hand thread on that screw, I came across the same thing some time ago on a grass strimmer. My nabour tried to remove a screw holding on the head, thinking it was rt handed, and sheared it off. Lucky enough I was able to drill out the stub [not easy ] and he was able to get a new screw.
29 July 2024 at 18:17 #744194
Andrew Tinsley
Participant
@andrewtinsley63637
Thanks guys, I omitted to say that the drill chuck was keyless.

Andrew,
29 July 2024 at 18:22 #744196
David George 1
Participant
@davidgeorge1
I have removed chucks, after removing the locking screw, by tightening an allen key in the chuck on the short end and taping the long arm with a mallet in the anticlockwise direction.

David
29 July 2024 at 19:12 #744199
bernard towers
Participant
@bernardtowers37738
Perfect David saved the day!!
29 July 2024 at 19:48 #744201
DC31k
Participant
@dc31k
On 29 July 2024 at 17:26 Andrew Tinsley Said:

I have an Hitachi Lithium ion battery drill…

I would like to replace the chuck with a good quality unit

What is the model number? Check on somewhere like https://www.sparepartsworld.co.uk/ for the cost of an OEM replacement.

I removed one today and it is Yukiwa Seiko, made in Japan, metal-bodied.

It will most likely be 1/2 UNF thread, which is common to 90% of these. Hence, you could check Makita, DeWalt etc. OEM prices to see how they compare.

As above, the screw is LH thread, the chuck is RH thread. Allen key gripped in the jaws to remove. If you are really unlucky, it will be loctited. In which case, it is better to destroy the chuck to remove it than destroying the gearbox through hitting it too violently.

Look on YouTube for Dean Doherty. He does a lot of these and in particular shows how to destructively remove a chuck without harming the spindle threads.
29 July 2024 at 20:30 #744209
Andrew Tinsley
Participant
@andrewtinsley63637
Thanks everyone,

The bolt at the bottom of the chuck is as you say , left handed and came out without too much argument. I will try David’s trick of using an allen key to persuade the chuck to unscrew. Will report later,

Andrew.
29 July 2024 at 20:46 #744210
Robert Atkinson 2
Participant
@robertatkinson2
When I replaced the chuck on my “free”* DeWalt cordless I used a Rohm and have been very pleased with it.

Robert.

* It fell of the back of a lorry, well the rear step of a transit van to be precise. IT was in the case with impact driver charger, batteries ad charger. It hit my car and caused some damage. The van did not stop. fortumantly I was driving a old run-around car so wan’t too bothered. would have. Police said if the van owners reported the drill missing I’d have to give it back but they would issue a fixed penalty for an insecure load :0 There was no name or business card in the case. The chuck had one jaw chipped. There was a couple of SDS drillls in the case which might explain that. With a new chuck it’s been a great drill.
29 July 2024 at 21:02 #744213
Andrew Tinsley
Participant
@andrewtinsley63637
David’s trick worked perfectly and the chuck is off, revealing a 1/2″ UNF thread of 20 tpi. Carefully examining the chuck doesn’t inspire much confidence. I will try to replace it with a better model. There are no manufacturer’s marks, looks decidedly cheap and nasty! The Hitachi drill model number is DV 18DGL, so I will take a look around to see if I can find better.

Thank you everyone, another new trick learned.

Andrew.
29 July 2024 at 21:04 #744214
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Robert

Do you recall which Rohm model you used ?

The chuck on my otherwise-lovely Bosch GDR 10,8 has always had too much run-out.

MichaelG.
29 July 2024 at 22:29 #744219
peak4
Participant
@peak4
My old drill had a Rohm Supra SK 0-10mm, which has the advantage of a locking collar, so the chuck doesn’t release the bit when running anti-clockwise.
Mine is an older all metal model, this looks like a plastic collar; not cheap though
https://eshop247.roehm.biz/DE-en/supra-sk-265.html

Bill
29 July 2024 at 22:48 #744221
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Thanks for that, Bill

MichaelG.

.

Edit: __ two things from the link:

For extreme use on hand-operated percussion drills and drills up to 1300 watt with mounting thread or conical mount.
Benefits
Concentricity of up to 0.25 mm

1. it is probably heftier than I need

2. that claimed concentricity looks disappointing

MichaelG.
29 July 2024 at 23:07 #744222
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Sorry, I quoted the wrong code for the drill … GDR is the impact driver

Here’s the drill:

.

.

https://docs.rs-online.com/5765/0900766b80da5644.pdf

MichaelG.
30 July 2024 at 01:13 #744229
peak4
Participant
@peak4
The Supra-I & S show better guaranteed concentricity, but they do several other models specially for hand drills, at least one of which even has tungsten carbide lined jaws as I recall.
https://eshop247.roehm.biz/DE-en/drill-chucks-5.html
The one I originally mentioned is now mounted on an MT2 arbor and gets used as my tap holding chuck in the lathe tailstock.

Bill
30 July 2024 at 06:24 #744241
DC31k
Participant
@dc31k
On 29 July 2024 at 23:07 Michael Gilligan Said:

Here’s the drill:

I hope I am not trying to teach you to suck eggs here, but remove the old chuck and look at it before going too far in selecting the new one.

In particular, the back end of the chuck is likely to be more or less recessed under the silver plastic in your photo. That means the diameter of the new chuck has to be compatible with (or fit inside) the silver ‘hole’. Depending on the depth of the hole, for example, it might obscure the locking collar on the Rohm one shown above.

With Bosch tools, there is a multi-digit number on the label. That is useful for identifying the tool on spares sites (where you would find an exploded digram allowing you to consider the points above without disassembly). I think it is this one:

https://www.boschtoolservice.com/gb/en/boschprof/spareparts/gsr-12v-15-3601H68100

and the number here is 3 601 H68 100 (check your own to confirm). The chuck is custom-made for the machine and fitting a standard chuck might leave a gap at the interface between chuck and machine.

There is also a small chance that the chuck will be 3/8″ UNF thread because it is a low powered model, so best to verify.
30 July 2024 at 07:42 #744246
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
On 30 July 2024 at 06:24 DC31k Said:

On 29 July 2024 at 23:07 Michael Gilligan Said:

Here’s the drill:

I hope I am not trying to teach you to suck eggs here, but remove the old chuck and look at it before going too far […]

No problem with sharing wisdom … It’s an open forum and [with perhaps a very few exceptions] we’re all here to learn from the egg-sucking of others.

In this instance “going too far” would equate to spending money … hence my simple request for information.

The run-out is only really a problem with small diameter drills, and in truth I would probably do better by lapping the jaws than running the risk of another disappointing purchase.

Thanks

MichaelG.
30 July 2024 at 09:52 #744258
Andrew Tinsley
Participant
@andrewtinsley63637
In the end I decided to get a keyed chuck. Fed up with my old chuck slipping and marking the shaft of the drill. I went for a Rohm 381547 Prima chuck (1.5 -13mm capacity), for the princely sum of £14 delivered.

Andrew.
30 July 2024 at 12:41 #744288
peak4
Participant
@peak4
On 29 July 2024 at 22:29 peak4 Said:

My old drill had a Rohm Supra SK 0-10mm, which has the advantage of a locking collar, so the chuck doesn’t release the bit when running anti-clockwise.
Mine is an older all metal model, this looks like a plastic collar; not cheap though
https://eshop247.roehm.biz/DE-en/supra-sk-265.html

Bill

For general info, I’ve just plugged this into the headstock taper and measured the runout at a variety of diameters.
Varies between 3 and 5 thou, with the minimum runout at the small diameter end.
That’s total runout, not plus minus.

Bill
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