Suitable Adhesive for Oily Wood

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Suitable Adhesive for Oily Wood

This topic has 12 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 1 July 2024 at 17:29 by KEITH BEAUMONT.

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30 June 2024 at 09:43 #738687
James Alford
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@jamesalford67616
I have been asked to make a ring with a silver inner, that slides over the finger, and a lignum vitae wooden outer piece.

I am wondering how best to secure the wood to the silver without visible rivets going through the two pieces. I have considered making them an interference fit and then using a freezing spray to shrink the silver before pushing it into the wood.

Alternatively, I have thought about glue, but as lignum vitae is a naturally oily wood, I do not know how well it would stick.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a glue that might work; or different practicable suggestions for securing the two parts?

James.
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30 June 2024 at 10:06 #738688
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
When I make outside furniture I tend to use Iroko which is also an oily wood. I clean the joints well with acetone and then use West Systems epoxy. Not had a joint fail yet.

Even something like this that gets a lot of rain sitting on the surface is OK after 15yrs, balls are 350mm dia for an idea of size.

And this bridge was done around about the same time, top rails are glued laminations
30 June 2024 at 10:12 #738695
Vic
Participant
@vic
As said, and I’ve read this many times, cleaning the surface with acetone before glue up is important with oily timber. Slow cure Araldite should do it or perhaps one of my favourites Urea Formaldehyde?
30 June 2024 at 10:37 #738708
Dalboy
Participant
@dalboy
As already mentioned, the preparation is the key, I have used Cellulose thinners to clean the surface as well as roughing he wood surface a little where it needs to be glued.

Remember that the Polyurethane type Adhesives do foam so a tape barrier is advised also a little dampening of one surface helps it to cure better.

Worth noting is that the Polyurethane glue can push the part out of position to make sure it is clamped during setting and yes I have forgotten to do this once, lesson learnt.

I have done this with LV wood and plastic. See Photo of the knob on top of this piece.
30 June 2024 at 11:00 #738710
Michael Gilligan
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@michaelgilligan61133
On 30 June 2024 at 09:43 James Alford Said:

I have been asked to make a ring with a silver inner, that slides over the finger, and a lignum vitae wooden outer piece.

[…]

Does anyone have any suggestions for a glue that might work; or different practicable suggestions for securing the two parts?

James.

At the risk of sounding like the proverbial ‘worn record’ … this sounds like a good opportunity to use an anaerobic retainer from Loctite, PermaBond, or whomsoever.

MichaelG.
30 June 2024 at 11:40 #738712
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
Could you make the silver ring small and then expand it into the wooden outer
30 June 2024 at 12:52 #738729
Vic
Participant
@vic
Epoxy or CA used here.

https://woodturnerscatalog.com/blogs/blog/turning-artisan-comfort-ring?_pos=5&_sid=0383ea58f&_ss=r
30 June 2024 at 16:05 #738766
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
That seems like a “super glue” …. 1 year guarantee !! Yes Sir, I would go for that !

Bob
30 June 2024 at 21:10 #738806
Robert Atkinson 2
Participant
@robertatkinson2
I’d use an activatd toughened acrylic like loctite Multibond 330. #activator on wood “glue” on metal. Degreasing, roughing and degeasing again is a good adea whatever the adhesive.

Robert.
1 July 2024 at 07:53 #738824
James Alford
Participant
@jamesalford67616
Thank you for all of the ideas and suggestions, and the different types of glue to consider.

Acetone. I have a bottle of that in the garage, but would not have considered using it to clean the wood. I shall try some on a piece of spare, as well as thinners, to see which seems most effective.

Spreading metal ring into the wood. I had not considered that, I confess. I am not quite sure how I would manage it without hammering, but I imagine that I could fabricate something with a tapers and a bolt to draw them together to expand the metal.

Dalboy: I like your bowl, which looks rather 1930s. Is the pattern around the top the pattern from an old bowls ball or something that you created?

Vic: thank you for the link, which I shall read.

I bought two old lignum vitae bowls balls yesterday, so when they arrive, I shall be able to make a start.

Watch this space…… but not for a while.

James.
1 July 2024 at 08:51 #738828
Dalboy
Participant
@dalboy
On 1 July 2024 at 07:53 James Alford Said:

Dalboy: I like your bowl, which looks rather 1930s. Is the pattern around the top the pattern from an old bowls ball or something that you created?

James.

Something I created using a very cheap knurling tool that I acquired before going into model engineering and a skew chisel for the two lines. And yes i still do woodwork and turning
1 July 2024 at 09:46 #738840
bernard towers
Participant
@bernardtowers37738
Personally I would shy away from anything that puts pressure on the wood part as at your sizes very prone to cracking, maybe not straight away but could do further down the line. Modern ahhesives are just so good these days and it wouldn’t put any undue pressure on either part.
1 July 2024 at 17:29 #738898
KEITH BEAUMONT
Participant
@keithbeaumont45476
A method I have always used for checking the surface of naturually oily wood for suitability of bonding,is,after the wipe with Acetone has dried, press a piece of fresh masking tape onto the surface. If it sticks you are good to go. If it doesn’t, start again.

Keith.
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