I think you would do well in considering new imported machines rather than used British machines. No doubt there are some little used and excellent examples of Myford lathes around, simply because they are still being manufactured, but as other makes pass between owners over the years they are hardly going to improve. I am not saying that they will not be still capable doing good work in the right hands, just that they will be more likely to be well worn, especially on the slide and leadscrews. I have a workshop full of old British machine tools collected over a lifetime, and I love ’em, but I have to admit they have mostly seen better days and if I were to be starting again buying imported machines from a reputable importer would be a no-brainer.

The idea of a ‘make’ when buying hobby machine tools isn’t solid ground these days.   In the past, taking British lathes as an example, there were a plethora of individual firms each offering tools of wildly different capabilities, ranging from ‘too cheap’ to ‘too expensive’.  After WW2 Myford dropped a bomb on most of these firms by producing, at reasonable cost, a modern, well-balanced general-purpose and versatile lathe of just the right size for most home workshops.  So for 30 or 40 years the simple answer to ‘what hobby lathe?’, especially in the UK, was Myford.

However, time marched on, and many improvements were made in industrial tool design.   Many of those improvements were aimed at reducing manufacturing cost, which gradually put the older Myford design at a serious cost disadvantage.  Today the hobby market is dominated by rather similar tool designs.  The story goes their design was developed from Western ideas by Soviet Russia, then passed into the public domain via Communist China.   Whatever the reason, much the same machines can be made by anybody with a suitable factory, and in the past many did, causing quality to vary wildly.   Today I believe most hobby lathes and mills are made by two Chinese firms to similar designs,  but neither has a monopoly, and both badge their products to suit the badge owners price point, including “too cheap”.

Another major change is that considerable cost savings are achieved by letting the customer do the final quality checks.   It is cheaper to replace a small percentage of faulty goods that escape from the factory than it is to fully inspect everything.   That means the customer should buy from a source who will make minimum fuss about replacing the odd duff item when one turns up.   To me that means buying from a reputable UK supplier rather than a grey importer.    Also, UK suppliers who want to maintain good customer relationships, are likely to filter out the worst, working with the maker to avoid issues.

My impression is that all the major UK suppliers do the decent thing should the product be defective, though some are more nimble than others.    Personally, I’ve had good support from Warco.  ArcEuro have a particularly good reputation.    Chester sometimes get a mildly bad press, as do the others occasionally, but the forum isn’t full of posts warning folk not to buy from Company ‘X’.

At one time Axminster were more expensive because their price included an extended warranty.  MachineMart isn’t ideal because their  staff are unlikely to know anything about lathes, but you can go and look at them in store.

A bit of expectation management may not go amiss.   To me, spending a few thousand quid is big money, therefore I expect what I buy should be absolutely perfect!   Unfortunately that’s unreal because hobby lathes are built down to a price.   I bet all the UK suppliers have stories about customers expecting far too much of their hobby purchase.  An industrial machine of roughly the same capability will be at least 6x more expensive, be much more heavily built, and able to run flat out for long periods without harm.    In comparison, hobby machines lack finesse, stamina and rigidity.   For what I do hobby limitations don’t matter:  my machines work well-enough provided I operate within their limitations.   Daft I think to expect a hobby lathe to endlessly chew through steel with tool-room accuracy.

I dithered before buying a mini-lathe and have always regretted the time wasted!  I was obsessed with details that turned out not to matter.  Almost any lathe would have done to get me started!   After I’d used it for a few years I was much clearer about what I needed, which was a BIGGER machine.   Such a common experience, that most people should start with the biggest machines they can.

Avoid combination mill/lathes unless absolutely stuffed for space and money.   They don’t perform well compared with separates.

Dave

It’s lucky that Kelvin has already stated he wants new else this thread would have degenerated into yet another pointless old iron versus Chinese debate.

Kelvin,

Seig machines appear to be much more tolerant electrically wise of accidental overload. The specs for them can be found on the Arc web site.

Not all Chinese machines come from the same factory and some are bulk orderable in varying specs and colours and a cheap one is not the same as an expensive one. Basically you get what you pay for.

Speaking generally be aware that since HP got converted into Kw some makers machines are imported quoting the larger power consumption figure rather than motor output.

ArcEuro for me, and good advice from Dave and Robert. Noel.

Another vote for the sc4, I upgraded to it from the sc3. A nice machine, and I endorse Arc,s service.

Ian

Steer clear of the WMnn style milling machines typically offered by warco amadeal chester.  Reason- columns to bendy and the comically long tables for size of machine, which you will find will waste space in your shed.

Just my opinion, others may vary. I have had to move my 16 to a smaller space and am seriously contemplating cutting a foot off the table!

(Sigh! Still looking for the perfect Centec 2B)

As Jack says used with appropriate size cuts, feeds and spindle speeds any lack of rigidity or grunt from the variable speed motor is not really a problem, if you are intending to make more Stuart or similar type engines then the imported machines will be fine. Well at least they are for me, take a look down this playlist all done on far eastern machines with tooling and cutters from the same part of the world.

Yeah well, not dissin, just sayin. My WM 16 has done OK (despite having to wear ear defenders when running at carbide milling speeds). Anyway, I am stuck with it now unless I can sell a kidney or two.

If I could choose again and was restricted to Chinese iron, I would probably opt for an SX3 as being the closest thing to a proper milling machine available at ‘value’ prices (if starting from scratch, the R8 spindle may not be an issue).

OP makes reference to ‘UK makes’  when actually referring to UK suppliers of imported Chinese machines. Myford Ltd sell the only ‘new’ UK ‘made’ (or at least UK assembled) machines of hobby class that I am aware of, prices starting from about twice the stated budget per base unit (and snowballing rapidly).

Anyway, the OPs budget, even for new import machinery, is pretty modest in comparison to todays hyperinflated prices. If needing to swing 10 inches or larger for ‘bigger’ engines a new lathe thingy will be 2.5 to 3.5 £K which doesn’t leave much for the mill, an SX3 is just possible but the OP will need to get a paper round to fund the purchase of tooling.

As usual caveat emptor when comparing, make sure to consider the total package value. Some retailers price ‘fully tooled up’  with others you may have to pay extra for 4 jaws, steadies, drill chucks, faceplates, screwdriver, delivery etc. You will need decent stands for both which is an extra cost ( no, really, you are better off with a PB unit unless you really want to spend days of your time and even more of your money buggering about with bits of unseasoned 2x4s and weetabix box strength ply from your local DIY outlet).

I have purchased machinery from 4 out of the 5 main  re-sellers to the hobby trade (the exception is Axminster, being rather too pricy imho). In general I have not found much to differentiate any of them in terms of service or support, good or bad. The experience has usually been broadly satisfactory.

I would describe these mills as bendy – when compared with a bridgeport. I think it important to take that on board and treat it accordingly.

Bendy in this case is a negative.

Positives that result from the compormise include cost and weight.

Kelvin,

If you are still looking for a suitable milling machine Amadeal has just filled a container, now in Nanjing, and includes our VM25LV with 3-axis DRO, X-axis power feed as well a Z-axis powerfeed and available in around 2 months time.

I won’t comment upon whether either the column or bed are bendy, although I have no reason to think they are, but it shouldn’t bend your budget.

Hugh                                                                                                                                                         Amadeal

I’m glad you said that Dave as I was beginning to think I wasted my time writing the articles about getting the most out of the benchtop mills due to them not being as rigid as a larger machine and it seems Hugh has been able to source more sturdy ones. Just hope it won’t come back to bite his bum if a customer puts a clock against the column or fully extended end of the table and pushes against it as they may want a refund😉