Painting a copper boiler

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Painting a copper boiler

This topic has 16 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 15 December 2020 at 16:37 by Speedy Builder5.

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9 March 2014 at 12:14 #146514
Mark Salzedo
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@marksalzedo65030
Hi,

Rather a basic questionn but what is the best type of paint to spray onto a copper boiler? Am I limited to black paint or are other colours available too?

Presumably, it is just a matter of degreasing and drying the copper boiler and then spraying?

Many thanks,
Mark
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9 March 2014 at 12:14 #7077
Mark Salzedo
Participant
@marksalzedo65030
Painting a copper boiler
9 March 2014 at 15:22 #146536
old Al
Participant
@oldal
Hi Mark.

Degrease using a scouring pad. wash with water, make sure you leave no residue. Etch prime with the best you can get your hand on and finally paint using enamel paints of your colour.

I have always used enamel as I have been told it holds its colour better than cellulose when things get hot. Enamel will change colour in time

best of luck

Alan
9 March 2014 at 17:48 #146550
Tim Stevens
Participant
@timstevens64731
Surely, I ask as one who makes parts not models, a boiler should be covered with insulating material? But if you do use 'paint' then we need to know how hot it is going to get, before we offer a useful response. A boiler for cooking eggs is one thing, superheated steam quite a lot hotter.

Cheers, Tim
9 March 2014 at 22:41 #146598
stan pearson 1
Participant
@stanpearson1
Hi Mark

If the boiler has a cleading in brass I have always used a thin coat of self etch and a high build primer then wet flat and spray with cellulose never had any problems, the only boilers not with cleading is those designed by LBSC and I have had no experience with them.

Regards

Stan
10 March 2014 at 06:36 #146609
Harry Wilkes
Participant
@harrywilkes58467
Only painted a couple of TE boilers and used VHT paint straight onto the copper, in my case I used black but VHT paint is available in other colours.Both engines are fired and to date the paint is still in good condition.

H
10 March 2014 at 09:34 #146618
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Barbacue paint, I'v used it on one of my hot air engines, if it gets too hot it goes gray (black paint), then peals off. Don't know the temperature that it will stand. Comes in aerosol cans. Ian S C
10 March 2014 at 09:51 #146620
HomeUse
Participant
@homeuse
Normally the temperature of the outer shell (Not Cleading) is not much more than 100 deg C – the superheating of the steam comes after the steam goes thro. superheating tubes in the flue ways – LBSC did not used cleading (insulation) on he’s boilers and did not seem to have trouble with good quality enamel paints – My boiler is LBSC design and is covered with spray applied enamel from Phoenix Paints (No interest in the company other than a satisfied customer) The copper was fully cleaned /dried and scarified all over with a nylon scourer then given a coat of etching primer. Wear gloves as even a fingerprint (oil) will cause later problems.

Edited By HomeUse on 10/03/2014 09:52:49
13 March 2014 at 20:20 #146996
nigel jones 5
Participant
@nigeljones5
Trust me it can be a nightmare to get it right. Ive tried everything available to me, from stove paint, bbq paint, cellulose and so on. Directly painting onto copper is difficult, or rather getting the paint to stick is. Ive not found etch primer to be any good (halfords variety) and a light coat of red oxide primer seems to stick best. I have seen boilers with an exceptional top coat, alas mine were none of those!
13 March 2014 at 21:27 #147003
Clive Hartland
Participant
@clivehartland94829
What about Powder Coating? This is where the item is masked off and then coated in powder and then heated up in an Infra red oven which melts the powder coat into a nice homogenous surface.

The unit next to us do car wheels and they seem impervious to abrasion and dust and dirt! has anyone tried it?

Clive
13 March 2014 at 22:26 #147012
old Al
Participant
@oldal
I was assuming Mark was thinking of painting an LBSC designed loco with no cleading, might even be a Tich. My efforts in painting on to copper have always been successful, but you need the right stuff that says it will etch copper.

I have had a few areas lift on brass due to lazy cleaning and masking tape, but, buy professional etch primer.

It wont stop heat destroying the pigment in time.
13 March 2014 at 22:33 #147015
stan pearson 1
Participant
@stanpearson1
Hi Mark

Don't use DIY self etch go to your local car paint supplier and buy Bodyline mix 50/50 with acid activator and spray on a thin coat, leave for 2 or 3 days for it to work.

Regards

Stan
13 March 2014 at 22:39 #147016
julian atkins
Participant
@julianatkins58923
copper takes paint extremely well and doesnt require etch primer. brass is another matter entirely.

cheers,

julian
14 March 2014 at 00:25 #147021
nigel jones 5
Participant
@nigeljones5
I bow to julians comments….so it does! I was thinking of brass!
14 March 2014 at 10:15 #147039
HomeUse
Participant
@homeuse
The etching primer I use on copper boilers and all brass work is u-pol Acid (hash) 8 1K Etch Primer – available at good paint shop (car) suppliers – I find it needs a coat of following paint applied within 24 hrs (after drying period of 1 Hr) (Note:- No Hash Key on my keyboard)

Edited By HomeUse on 14/03/2014 10:16:25
15 December 2020 at 15:55 #513655
Terry Chapman 2
Participant
@terrychapman2
would this be ok?

Deco colour paint. No primer,heat resistant to 300c?
15 December 2020 at 16:37 #513663
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
The bible – "How not to paint a Locomotive" recommends grit blasting to provide the key, and we would be talking a very fine grit / powder.
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