Tormek. I can put a razor edge on a broom handle in 5 minutes.

Hi, not sure a Steel would sharpen a blunt edge.  It would however restore a dull one.  Have a look at the Lansky sharpening system.  Works great on short to medium kitchen knives, but needs a little more thought on longer knives.

Do you remember the `edgecraft tool which had a handle that was magnetic and supplied with 3 diamond flats that fitted on the handle. Got it from one of the shows years ago and the only thing its been used for is sharpening kitchen knives and dam good it is too.

I was taught that while you certainly need a keen edge on a kitchen knife – always believed that a blunt knife was more dangerous than a sharp one – you do not actually want the same kind of razor edge that you would put on a chisel or plane iron. I do use my workshop Tormek for grinding my kitchen knives to give a good edge but only on the grinding wheel, never the honing wheel. Then it’s back to the kitchen to finish the edge on the steel. Why? I was once given a demonstration of this. Take a razor-style really keen edge and try to slice a tomato. Then touch up the edge on the steel and try again. Much better! For kitchen use, that almost microscopic saw edge makes the difference.

Anyone else do similar?

I do have a knife-grinding jig for the Tormek but generally sharpen knives free hand. There are little sharpening jigs with a couple of crossed steels or wheels which are supposed to make it all easy and “skill-free” but I’ve never really got on with them. Might be easier for someone with arthritis, though?

On 6 January 2024 at 16:33 bernard towers Said:

Do you remember the `edgecraft tool which had a handle that was magnetic and supplied with 3 diamond flats that fitted on the handle. Got it from one of the shows years ago and the only thing its been used for is sharpening kitchen knives and dam good it is too.

Yes I have two, one I bought for myself, and the other for my Dad, which I’ve now inherited.
The first one I got from a show, and the second took some tracking down, as the guy who sold them was actually a one man outlet for what became a larger TV shopping channel.
I’m not sure if he also sold the tipped drill bits I still use for drilling HSS machine hacksaw blades when I shorten them. I can’t remember their name now, but the main branding colour was yellw with red and green writing as I recall

I’ve not seen the files on sale for some time

Bill

I have a lot of knife sharpening tools. These are a bit of bother but can deliver the finest edge. The above version allows quick flip of knife from one side to the other – cheaper ones (below)don’t have the flip feature:

If you don’t need perfect angles, then you can use the cheap version and just hold the knife im position with your hand (don’t bother clamping) – some might be more convienient. The stones tend to be poor quality so much better to get the diamond ones which are usually extra but maybe you can trawl ebay for a kit that incluee them (maybe coarse and fine is enough). And it is easy to make some additional wood strips which you can load up with stopping paste for hair-shaving finish.

Stropping compound is the simple secret to super sharp knives. Apply it to any backer that will hold the compound (wood, thick paper, cardboard, leather) and then strop the knife against it. The softer the backing, the more shallow the stropping angle. So your knife may be flat against the strop if leather.

Any stropping/buffing compound works – try with anything you have . Cheap green buffing compound  works well enough for most people. TCut or other metal polish. But there IS a big difference between compounds and if you want ultimate speed and sharpness then it is worth getting good compound.

DMT diasharp mini hone. I have been using the same red (medium) one for years. May be wrap some padding round the handle to make it easier to hold in an uncooperative hand.

Not the best of photos, but a quick shot of my home brewed version of JaCK’s gizmo.
Made out of scrap bits whilst I was off work with a broken ankle. I intended to make a clip so I could swap sides on a knife, as per JaCK’s but the ankle mended and I returned to work, so never did finish it.

Bill

Hello Jim, if you opt for one of the “pull through” sharpeners (yes, they do look to be the easiest option), use with care and pull the whole length of the blade through with constant pressure.  If not, you are likely to encourage a concaved edge.  This will clearly render the knife of little use cutting against a flat board.

Constant use of a steel can also have the same effect.  Occasional sharpening on a flat stone can help to minimise this.

When I sharpen a kitchen knife, I try and aim for a very slightly convex edge to counteract this, and improve cutting performance on a flat board.

Just to introduce a bit of topic-drift, what’s the best way to flatten an oilstone? I have one that’s been in the family at least 85 years, probably longer, and it’s slightly dished in places. Not by much, but just enought to make sharpening plane irons and chisels a little awkward.

Rob

Thanks Bill

Just ordinary sand, then? Plenty of that here 🙂

Rob

On 7 January 2024 at 11:55 Russell Eberhardt Said:

I made one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2613594

Works well.

Russell

Yes, I made something similar out of wood many years ago. It works very well.