Advice buying a Mark 1 Super 7B

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Advice buying a Mark 1 Super 7B

Home Forums Beginners questions Advice buying a Mark 1 Super 7B

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)
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  • #704351
    Steve Rowbotham
    Participant
      @steverowbotham77083

      I am relatively new to ME and have been using a chinese lathe for a couple of years, but have now decided to purchase a Myford. I am contemplating buying an early (pre 1958) Super 7B, the lathe seems to be in good condition and well looked after in general but having inspected it there are a few niggles that I woud value opinion on:

      1) The clutch is dragging slightly, i dont think it has been used for quite some time so maybe not surprising but the manual that I have does not cover the ‘clutch in countershaft pulley’ that is fitted to this lathe, hence i cant see how to adjust it. I have attempted to find info on this early clutch so far without success, is anyone able to point me to the apprpriate manual / diagram? Is dragging a common problem with this clutch and will i be able to adjust it out?

      2) There is damage to side of the countershaft outer (A position) pulley, which I assume would cause damage to the drive belt. I have attempted to source a replacement pulley but without success so far. Is anyone aware of where I can obtain a pulley, or advise if it is the same pulley as used on a different model.

      3) The saddle travels freely and smoothly up to a few inches from the tailstock end, then becomes stiffer. i assume this is due to the fact that it has hardly been used at this end and the rack has become a bit clogged over the decades, but would value opinion whther this could be sympomatic of something more significant.

      Any advice welcome before I part with hard earned cash.

       

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      #704370
      Steviegtr
      Participant
        @steviegtr

        I have a couple of friends with the MK1. I have the later Super7B 1975 ish. The early clutch is a round horseshoe looking unit & they are prone to the cast iron expanding  ring snapping. 1 mate reinforced his with mild steel but still encounters problems. There are threads somewhere on here about using a modded type front brake from a moped.

        I will have a look through the large quantity of drawings i have to see if there are any clutch diagrams.

        .

        #704371
        Steviegtr
        Participant
          @steviegtr

          Here you go. Hope this helps.

          Steve.

          old clutch2

          old clutch

          #704380
          ChrisLH
          Participant
            @chrislh

            My 1952 Super 7’s clutch is identical to this. It has worked without problems since I first acquired the lathe in 1966. I am not showing off, just indicating that it’s a reasonably sound design. I corresponded with a n other on this subject a couple of years ago but have had no feedback on how he got on. As a first step I would have stripped the countershaft to have a look, it’s not difficult to do.

            #704383
            Robert Butler
            Participant
              @robertbutler92161
              On Steve Rowbotham Said:

              3) The saddle travels freely and smoothly up to a few inches from the tailstock end, then becomes stiffer. i assume this is due to the fact that it has hardly been used at this end and the rack has become a bit clogged over the decades, but would value opinion whther this could be sympomatic of something more significant.

              Any advice welcome before I part with hard earned cash.

               

              Steve, more likely to be wear at the headstock end of the bed where most work undertaken and jibs adjusted to correct this which the bind as the saddle is wound back to the tailstock.

              I would not buy this machine irrespective of the other issues.

              Robert

               

              #704427
              Steve Rowbotham
              Participant
                @steverowbotham77083

                Steve, Chris and Robert, many thanks for your extremely helpful and prompt responses. I have decided not to proceed with the purchase of this machine but have certainly learned a lot from the experience, which will unquestionably help as my search continues. Thanks again for your help and insight, Steve

                #704435
                noel shelley
                Participant
                  @noelshelley55608

                  Steve, The clutch that used moped front brake shoes was a standard Myford product, the shoes also fitted I think the Raleigh Runabout it was NOT a mod or bodge ! Noel.

                  #704449
                  jaCK Hobson
                  Participant
                    @jackhobson50760

                    A really nice Myford is… really nice and usually really expensive. My old S7 (not B) is nothing special and, in my opinion, not worth a myford premium (well, the tailstock is super nice still but I’m thinking of moving to cross slide drilling anyway). I think, if you want English, maybe also consider Boxford. For an upgrade, I’d be looking for minimal wear and I’d be avoiding machines that are anywhere near as old as me.

                    #704452
                    Chris Crew
                    Participant
                      @chriscrew66644

                      All lathes wear at the head-stock end and get tighter at the tailstock over the years. Also, moving from a Chinese lathe to a Myford won’t make you a better turner. I thought that when I was younger, and even more foolish than I am now, if I bought a Gibson guitar it would make me a better player. Of course it didn’t, but it was a good investment. The same might be said of my Myford.

                      #704455
                      Steviegtr
                      Participant
                        @steviegtr
                        On noel shelley Said:

                        Steve, The clutch that used moped front brake shoes was a standard Myford product, the shoes also fitted I think the Raleigh Runabout it was NOT a mod or bodge ! Noel.

                        Hi Noel. I had seen that said somewhere before. The Mk 1 as shown though is a cast iron ring. My mate had his crack in half. He sort of repaired it with some plates. From your post i can only guess there must have been 3 versions altogether as the one in the diagram has no linings & pivot point Just a solid circle with the gap for the wedge. Unless I am seeing it wrong it would not be a very good cycle brake. Have you seen one. Happy new year.

                        Steve.

                        #704465
                        peak4
                        Participant
                          @peak4
                          On Steviegtr Said:
                          On noel shelley Said:

                          Steve, The clutch that used moped front brake shoes was a standard Myford product, the shoes also fitted I think the Raleigh Runabout it was NOT a mod or bodge ! Noel.

                          Hi Noel. I had seen that said somewhere before. The Mk 1 as shown though is a cast iron ring. My mate had his crack in half. He sort of repaired it with some plates. From your post i can only guess there must have been 3 versions altogether as the one in the diagram has no linings & pivot point Just a solid circle with the gap for the wedge. Unless I am seeing it wrong it would not be a very good cycle brake. Have you seen one. Happy new year.

                          Steve.

                          These are not my photos; I liberated them from the old Yahoo group before its demise.

                          Clutch Hub Assy

                          Super 7 Expanding Clutch

                          Push Rod

                          Clutch Push Rod

                          Bill

                          #704472
                          peak4
                          Participant
                            @peak4

                            See also for the list of changes

                            image_2024-01-04_181101772

                            #704481
                            peak4
                            Participant
                              @peak4

                              From Tony’s Page, The clutch with the brake shoes seems to have been official, but intended for the ML7, rather than the Super 7

                              image_2024-01-04_181710437

                              #704541
                              Steviegtr
                              Participant
                                @steviegtr

                                Ah , that’s where i saw it. Ml7. The 2 I have seen both had the cast expanding ring type.

                                But both on early Super 7’s.

                                #704572
                                noel shelley
                                Participant
                                  @noelshelley55608

                                  I have an S7 with the cone clutch 1968 and an earlier S7 1957 with the earlier type though not sure which,  cast iron ring or brake shoe. Based on Ian Bradleys ML7 lathe manual from 1973 it only shows the shoe type clutch, One has to assume that the cast iron ring was the first type. A word of caution on this book, ONLY the first 22 pages cover the ML7 before the rest is on the S7 ! Noel

                                  #704595
                                  Robert Atkinson 2
                                  Participant
                                    @robertatkinson2

                                    Fit a 3 phase motor and VFD and forget about the clutch 🙂

                                    #704604
                                    bernard towers
                                    Participant
                                      @bernardtowers37738

                                      how does that help with work that needs constant stop start?

                                      #704615
                                      Robert Atkinson 2
                                      Participant
                                        @robertatkinson2

                                        Unlike a single phase motor a 3 phase is capable of stop start operation without overheating or other damage. The ramp up and down times can be set to suit the opertion of the lathe.

                                        #704630
                                        Steviegtr
                                        Participant
                                          @steviegtr
                                          On Robert Atkinson 2 Said:

                                          Unlike a single phase motor a 3 phase is capable of stop start operation without overheating or other damage. The ramp up and down times can be set to suit the opertion of the lathe.

                                          Hi Robert & a Happy new year to you & yours. Tonight I have been in the workshop doing some more work on the Hit & Miss governor bits in the lathe & mill. As you know i have the Super 7B with the 3 phase inverter. But must have used the clutch around 10 times in one operation. If you don’t have one fine. But if you have it is so much easier & convenient to just push the lever.

                                          Steve.

                                          #704634
                                          bernard towers
                                          Participant
                                            @bernardtowers37738

                                            Thanks Steve.

                                            #704670
                                            derek hall 1
                                            Participant
                                              @derekhall1

                                              Hi Steve,

                                              I have a similar set up myford super 7 with quick change gearbox and a three phase motor and invertor.

                                              I love the fact that I can easily adjust the speed, but I still occasionally change the belt to give me a different range of speeds.

                                              However I always use the clutch, the motor stays on the whole time I am machining a component. So much easier I think to disengage clutch measure component, then continue machining, than to look down press stop then when ready press start button which to me takes my eyes momentarily off the work piece as it begins revolving.

                                              Perhaps I am just old fashioned, but seems “safer” to use the clutch…

                                              Sorry to stray off topic

                                              #704768
                                              Mark Rand
                                              Participant
                                                @markrand96270

                                                My long bed ML7B has the moped brake shoe clutch and a VFD. The clutch is still useful.

                                                I’m going to be selling the lathe in a while, but I want to strip it down and measure the bed, check alignments and do any remedial work needed before passing it on, since I won’t sell something that I wouldn’t be happy with.

                                                It’s been in the family since new in 1966 (dad told me it was my 8th birthday present!) but I have rarely used it after making a complete set of Hardinge apron gears and shafts with it when rebuilding the HLV.

                                                #704822
                                                Robert Atkinson 2
                                                Participant
                                                  @robertatkinson2
                                                  On derek hall 1 Said:

                                                  Hi Steve,

                                                  I have a similar set up myford super 7 with quick change gearbox and a three phase motor and invertor.

                                                  I love the fact that I can easily adjust the speed, but I still occasionally change the belt to give me a different range of speeds.

                                                  However I always use the clutch, the motor stays on the whole time I am machining a component. So much easier I think to disengage clutch measure component, then continue machining, than to look down press stop then when ready press start button which to me takes my eyes momentarily off the work piece as it begins revolving.

                                                  Perhaps I am just old fashioned, but seems “safer” to use the clutch…

                                                  Sorry to stray off topic

                                                  You could always replace the clutch with a stop /start switch operated by the clutch lever. A VFD can stop and start a “7” with 3 phase as fast or faster as a clutch and single phase motor.

                                                   

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