Naerok 14″ bandsaw manual

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Naerok 14″ bandsaw manual

This topic has 5 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 21 November 2023 at 07:05 by Diogenes.

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20 November 2023 at 14:33 #692543
Clive Farrar
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@clivefarrar90441
Does anyone have a manual for the above style 3 wheel bandsaw with 6″ sanding wheel that they could copy for me.

I think I know what i need to but would like to be sure.

There are no specific model numbers on the machine and nothing showing on line.

I believe it to be a generic style also known as Nu-tools 0134A or Clarke CBS355 ( i have a clarke manual )

currently using 0.0142 thick blades but have had a lot of them break after little use, cutting wood. 3 different suppliers so its not a batch issue.

Could be I have been running the tufnol guides too tight and overheating the blades. I slackened them off and the current blade has done a bit better.

Any other helpful hints would be gratefully received.

Clive
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20 November 2023 at 18:09 #692639
Diogenes
Participant
@diogenes
I have the Draper variant (BS355A) which is probably a bit newer than yours, but broadly similar I guess..

Your are quite correct in that the blade guide set-up is indeed rubbish and the blocks will cant in their housing, so that if set tight, they will tighten even more if they begin to bind – fiddly and tiresome ‘finessing’ of the adjustment whilst gently ‘loading’ them in the direction of blade travel helps, the Draper manual states ‘leave a gap of 1mm between blade and guide block‘, but I use less than this, er, ‘not quite touching’ is how best to describe it.

I use 0.4mm (0.016″) thick, 6mm (1/4″) deep blades for most things..

If there’s anything particular you’d like to see from the manual please do let me know..
20 November 2023 at 22:05 #692694
Clive Farrar
Participant
@clivefarrar90441
Thanks for the reply. i shall set up the blocks with 0.25 mm clearance either side and try that, just hope the bade does not wander too much as a result.

Does your book say anything about tensioning the blade?

I am using 3/8″ blades not 1/4″ . I have been undoing the tension bolt all the way so that i get full spring pressure to tension the blade to try and help get a straight cut.

Other than that it is a serviceable machine and i generally get fair to good results out of it
20 November 2023 at 22:26 #692706
Howard Lewis
Participant
@howardlewis46836
With regard to sedtting blade tension, you will not go far wrong id you read up what jacques mauredl has said about blade tension; and make a Tension Meter to his design.

I made one, and use it on my generic 4.5″ mbandsaw.

Blade life is VASTLY extended, as accuracy is greatly improved, especially if you fine tune the machine first of all

HTH

Howard
20 November 2023 at 23:12 #692713
KenL
Participant
@kenl
This You Tube video gives a good guide to setting up any bandsaw, especially in respect to straight cutting. If the top wheel tyre has lost its “crown” it will be near impossible to stop the blade drifting.

In my experience the main reason that three wheel saws break blades is simply that the wheel radius is too small, thus making the blade go around curves that are too tight causing excessive flexure. Obviously using thicker blades exascerbates this problem but the one you’re using should be fairly flexible. Similarly a narrow blade will make drift problems worse. As for tension, I found that using a saw similar to the Naerok (Dewalt DW1000) worked best with maximum tension, especially when cutting steel. My current (2 wheel Elu) saw requires much less tension for good results. Another good tip when cutting steel is to use a small brush to apply cutting oil to the blade, makes a lot of difference and extends blade life. Guide clearance should be the minimum possible without contacting the blade.

My current problem is too fast a blade speed, you should aim for less than 100m/min if possible and don’t try to cut anything other than very gentle radii on steel, this will take the set off one side of the blade quite quickly and lead to drift.

Ken
21 November 2023 at 07:05 #692737
Diogenes
Participant
@diogenes
Clive, the book simply says ‘turn the screw anticlockwise until the blade is tensioned’ – like you I back it out all the way, though it may be worth experimenting to see if there’s a sweet spot near the top..

As I’m sure you know, it’s important to keep the moving guide as close to the work as possible.

If it’s very ‘wandery’, then as already suggested I’d examine the tyres, if it’s a s/h machine also look at the inner side, I’ve heard unscrupulous people turn them inside out which leaves them a bit ‘hollow’..

The speeds of the Draper are listed as;

160 m/min – for non-ferrous metal

750m/m – sawing wood

1200m/m – for using the 1/2″ sanding belt (included as an accessory)
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