Preventing Rusting in Garage

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Preventing Rusting in Garage

This topic has 19 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 21 October 2011 at 23:26 by Cyril Bonnett.

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17 October 2011 at 21:36 #76450
Morgan Sweet
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@morgansweet
I’m looking for ideas to help my tools/lathe from rusting in my garage, now being retired I can’t afford heating/dehumidifiers etc . Would painting the concrete floor and block walls be beneficial? Is leaving a window light open for ventilation a good or bad idea? What about covering the lathe, old sheet cloth or polythene or a combination, or bubble pack?

Any inexpensive ideas to prevent rusting will be welcome.
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17 October 2011 at 21:36 #5709
Morgan Sweet
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@morgansweet
17 October 2011 at 22:08 #76452
peter walton 1
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@peterwalton1
Best and cheapest is to cover with something thick and heavy(blanket etc) as this will slow the temperature changes on lathe mill etc.

Rust will form when the temperature drops and any steel objects will be the coldest object around so any water in the air will condense on them. You could also add a low wattage lamp under the covers as this will help in the temperature changes.

Also put plenty of oil on them sort of belt and braces approach.

Peter
17 October 2011 at 22:59 #76454
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
Hi,

Some of my machines are housed in a single skin brick garage, over the years I have found that insulating the roof space has made a significant improvement. I used 11mm osb screwed to the existing rafters and then laid 100mm loft insulation in the voids.

I also cover all of my machines with cotton covers (mostly old duvet covers or large beadsheets that the wife deems no longer required).

Having any form of covering over a machine (which allows it to breathe) will reduce the onset of rusting by forming an insulating barrier which slows down the temperature change. Sudden temp changes cause condensation to form on the metal surfaces which in turn encourages oxidisation, i.e rusting.

So, any form of insulation will reduce the process of condensation.

In the winter months my workshop often drops below freezing and is invariably below dew point, but, by covering the machines I have almost eliminated corrosion on the exposed surfaces.

As an added precaution,I also spray all unpainted surfaces with a protective oil solution.
18 October 2011 at 02:56 #76459
Steve Garnett
Participant
@stevegarnett62550
There’s a previous thread on rusting conditions here. Note carefully Andrew Johnston’s reply – he’s hit the nail on the head completely when it comes to rust formation.

I use a couple of heaters with froststats in them to prevent the WS freezing, but just as importantly it’s arranged so that early morning sun can’t get in and warm it up quickly. Direct sun is just as good as a warm front for getting a quick temperature rise going, and will do just as much rust damage if you don’t prevent it from happening.

So I’d say that anything you can do to keep moist air out of your workshop is a good thing, but that preventing it from warming up fast is just as important. Keeping machines warmer will help, but I’ve never experienced any improvement from covering them, I’m afraid. If you want to warm up your workshop fast so you can use it, then using hot air circulating is way better than any form of convection heating – as long as you don’t use a propane heater. These chuck loads of moisture out when running, and will cause almost anything capable of it to rust if it runs near it. So stick with electricity and fans, unless you are lucky enough to have an extension to your central heating in there.

If you can stand to use it, WD40 helps – the WD stands for Water Displacement, so that evil combination of water and air shouldn’t come into contact with anything that’s coated with it.
18 October 2011 at 09:00 #76464
Clive Hartland
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@clivehartland94829
Luckily my garage is in the same footprint as my house foundations and has a radiator off the central heating system.

This keeps it dry and warm.

Further to this is the fact that a large mass of iron/metal transfers heat/cold equally, thats physics.

If kept at an average temperature it will not rust. If it is possible to run an extra radiator to the workshop then do so.

If you have an up and over door then seal it as best you can as the rain gets blown in under it!

Clive
18 October 2011 at 10:06 #76465
Gordon W
Participant
@gordonw
Well, it’s bl**** near freezing here. My good shop is just self built timber and is usually damp. What heating there is ,is a small fan heater, also is home to the cats, so door is usually ajar. All the earlier advice is good, but I am now convinced that ventilation is the key, at least in my type of set up. Of course the more the stuff is used the less chance of rust.
18 October 2011 at 12:55 #76474
David Littlewood
Participant
@davidlittlewood51847
I have, for 20+ years, used Shell Ensis rust preventing oil. A light wipe with a cloth soaked in this has proved very effective at keeping steel free of rust. It seems only to be available in quite large cans, but it goes a long way and most people would find a can lasted a lifetime.

It is also worth pointing out that, as well as condensation, another significant cause of corrosion is the salt in sweaty fingerprints. No amount of temperature management will prevent this; rust inhibiting oil will.

David
18 October 2011 at 15:46 #76479
Mark Piper
Participant
@markpiper47133
I have a small electric (not parafin), greenhouse heater which has two heat settings and a thermostate. I have it set all year on the lower heat setting with the thermostate almost on the lowest setting.

I have used this set up for three years and have got rid of all the rust/condensation problems I used to have. Whilst I take the point about cost on board, my electric bill shows no sudden changes and all the oils and sprays sugested by other people do have a cost. Good luck!

Mark
19 October 2011 at 07:57 #76499
Terryd
Participant
@terryd72465
Hi,

When dew forms from the natural moisture in air it falls – gravity rules ok! lay a piece of round bar on the bench in a moist environment and it will be the upper surfaces which are mostly affected by rust. The answer to rust prevention is as other have pointed out simple – keep the temperature above the dew point and reduce as much as possible the presence of moisture in the air by sealing doors etc. However it’s not always possible to achieve these for a number of reasons.

The alternative is to accept that there is dew forming and prevent it from reaching those nice shiny, expensive bits. However I would not cover my machines with textiles such as cotton sheets etc for the reason that they are very good at absorbing and retaining moisture (hence their use for skin contact clothing) and that is the last thing I want in contact with rust prone metals. They will create a nice moisture laden atmosphere and absorb as much water as the air can throw at them. Most people who advocate their use will say something like “I also keep a thick layer of such or such a goo on exposed bits” – it is the goo that has prevented the deadly rustbug, not the multiple layers of textile.

I am lucky in having a well sealed detached garage but I have to open the large door to enter so lose much heat and allow the pesky wet stuff to enter (I really need an airlock). It is too large to heat cheaply so I use homemade clear vinyl covers similar to the ones sold by the likes of Boxford and Myford (RIP) over my machines which prevents the moisture from falling on to them. The covers also create a micro environment within which has much less moisture than the larger garage. I have no problems now with rust – I only use modern dry lubricants on my machines and no special anti rust treatments. I do however use a couple of large bags of silica gel (eBay) under each cover and if they ever get moist I can dry them in the microwave or oven.

By the way, slowing down the rate of cooling will only slow the rate of dew formation – not prevent it, you still get the rust. My father in law, a real cheapskate, used a blanket over his car engine at night instead of antifreeze, it may have cooled slowly but it still froze solid (and of course, one day in a hurry he forgot about it – it took us both ages to cut the shreds from around the various pulleys and belts).

Best regards and happy modelling,

Terry
19 October 2011 at 11:26 #76503
1
Participant
@1
Further to Terryd’s comments regarding machine covers, I also cover my machines to try and reduce the effects of the atmosphere and keep the dust off. Being too lazy to home make covers and too mean to pay fancy prices for pukka items I got a couple of all weather barbeque covers cheaply off t’internetty which serve the purpose admirably.

Jim
19 October 2011 at 15:55 #76510
JohnF
Participant
@johnf59703
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19 October 2011 at 20:25 #76521
Brian Still
Participant
@brianstill44962
Unfortunately I do not think that anything will be 100% effective unless backed up by a dehumidifier. You would be amazed at the amount of water extracted in one week.

Since I have used one I can leave my tooling just as I have used them without a trace of rust. I do have the entire wooden building reasonably well insulated to start with however and this does help to keep an even temperature within the workshop. Not expensive to run, just the initial outlay to find, although prices generally are not as high as they were a few years ago.

Not much help,I know, if you are unable to afford one but it’s my two penny worth

Brian
19 October 2011 at 23:12 #76533
DMB
Participant
@dmb
Hi all,

My heavy Fobco Star bench drill and mill both wear plastic sandbag “hats.” Further bags on drill table and each end mill table. Myford has original plastic cover. Mill chiptray has home-made box of 4 bayonet fittings wired in series and 4 x 60 w Edison bulbs which just glow on a total of 15W, this being on 10 months of the year. This wet Summer, its stayed on. This is all I have to stop rusting.

John
19 October 2011 at 23:19 #76534
DMB
Participant
@dmb
I should add that there is along sheet of thin plastic over bench which I just peel back to do work @ bench. I never seem to need use of oil-filled radiator, tubular heater and dehumidifier which all live in workshop.

Workshop is 10ft x 8ft apex roofed wooden shed, completely covered in roofing felt and sandwiched bubble wrap on roof. Inside, roof lined with 2″ polystyrene sheets. Walls covered in 3-ply plywood and cavities stuffed with glass wool sold for house roof insulation. Even the door got same treatment. Conccrete floor painted with black anti-damp jollop, layer of hardboard then 2 thicknesses of redundant floor tiles from house.

John
19 October 2011 at 23:23 #76535
DMB
Participant
@dmb
Ivy has been encouraged to grow over the roof and South wall as its ever-green, it gives year-round protection from the sun down here in southern England, thus preventing those fast temp. rises.

Also got a max and min thermometer and a hygrometer in shed to tell me whats going on.

John
20 October 2011 at 10:43 #76554
Steve Garnett
Participant
@stevegarnett62550
Posted by Robin Woodward on 20/10/2011 10:30:51:

….and the dehumidifier was about £45 new for those who are interested.

So where did it come from? Do you have a link?

Another thing that occurred to me the other day is that if you have things like steel stock you are worried about (and this would actually work well for anything you could get in it, actually) and aren’t likely to need to use for a few months, then putting it all in one of those plastic bags that you suck out with a vacuum cleaner would work a treat. No moisture gets in, and also no air – so guaranteed no rust!
20 October 2011 at 11:57 #76560
Terryd
Participant
@terryd72465
Hi Again,

I also keep small project parts in plastic food boxes with sealed lids – cheap from Wilko – I also chuck in a silica gel bag, I keep all of the small ones from packaging for that purpose, but they are as cheap as chips on eBay.

Regards

Terry
20 October 2011 at 16:22 #76563
Clive Hartland
Participant
@clivehartland94829
I am surprised there is no mention of VPI, Vapour Phase Inhibitor.

If you have delicate tools ie. slips and mics and gauges then a screw on lid drum about 10 gallon size with VPI paper inside it will keep your tools rust free.

Even sealable plastic boxes for food can be used.

Again, acid from fingers etc will start the corrosion off and it will work silently and you will only find it when you use the tool.

Ground surface equipment kept in purpose made storage boxes should be inspected regularly as corrosion will start where the surfaces touch the resilient packaging.

One thing, if you have any optical instruments always ensure they are stored dry and not packed away wet or damp after use.

A lot of optical instruments are sealed in their cases and any trapped moisture will find its way onto the glass surfaces and start fungal growth. I have to deal with on a daily basis where instruments are kept underground and then brought up and put in store but later have to be stripped and de-fungussed, expensive.!

Silica gel. is not a good thing to store with tools as it will absorb moisture from the air unless activated and kept sealed in a container.

Another bad process is soldering in the workshop with a very active flux as the vapour given off will start corrosion on tools and metal surfaces.

Clive
21 October 2011 at 23:26 #76617
Cyril Bonnett
Participant
@cyrilbonnett24790
If covering with any form of material, cotton sheets, old blankets remember that after a couple of days they will themselves become damp and need airing, I have seen what covering a lathe with blankets can do if left for any length time.

I cover my machines with bubble wrap but only in large sheets drapped loosely over them, some ventilation is necessary and I try and leave the door or window open as often as possiblethrough the day.

Making sure you have a good ventilation system helps.
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