Eagle Surface Grinder

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

Eagle Surface Grinder

This topic has 17 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 11 October 2010 at 00:37 by dcosta.

Viewing 18 posts - 1 through 18 (of 18 total)

Author

Posts
7 October 2010 at 17:51 #56619
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
I have a Mk2/3 eagle surface grinder which whilst adequate for most purposes could be improved with wet grinding facilities. I am aware that these machines were supplied with a wet grinding facility and would appreciate any information, pictures etc of such a machine. I don’t think the conversion would be a difficult one but any information on how this was implemented by the manufacturer will be4 very much appreciated.
Advert

7 October 2010 at 17:51 #5221
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
Wet Grinding
8 October 2010 at 01:05 #56628
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
Have you considered a spraymist system?

I have made one for my lathe, and am just about to do them for my mill and Herbert surface grinder. A lot less mess than flood coolant. The only drawback is you have to have piped air.

Spraymist

Bogs
8 October 2010 at 09:39 #56637
David Colwill
Participant
@davidcolwill19261
I made a spraymist for my triac CNC mill and had to stop using it because I hadn’t set up proper extraction for the resultant vapour. I ended up with a workshop full of choking ‘fumes’ which were painful to breathe and made me feel quite ill. The actual unit though was very effective. I would advise that anyone planning on using this system checks out the relevant health and safety issues for these things. Used correctly I’m sure they are fantastic And I do hope to resurrect mine when I can put a suitable enclosure around the machine.

Dave.
8 October 2010 at 10:28 #56644
Pete Jones
Participant
@petejones68962
There’s a small photo of an Eagle 5W (the wet version) on the inside back cover of ME 4360 (11th Sept 2009) in the Home and Workshop Machinery ad. Although small it does seem to show the main differences. I would have thought the biggest issue would be coolant filtration prior to recirculation.
Pete.
8 October 2010 at 11:54 #56646
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
Dave,

That is all to do with badly adjusted nozzles, not the requirement of an extraction unit.

I get no fogging at all from mine, and it uses very little air or cutting fluid. In fact, I use it as a total loss system, just a quick wipe away when I have finished.

I can part off a 3″ lump, and the bit that falls off is cool to the touch, not smoking as normally happens.

It is the air that does the cooling and swarf blow away, and you only require tiny amounts of cutting fluid.

Bogs
8 October 2010 at 20:29 #56670
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
Hi Bogs,

I’ve read that post a few times recently, I’ve been thinking about something along those lines, do you have any dimensioned drawings

Your posts are very informative, I’ve just finished making the tramming tool you documented in another post,

many thanks

CB
8 October 2010 at 21:50 #56676
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
CB,

Sorry, that project got held up when my body decided to rebel against me, so I only ever got to make the first one, which was a prototype anyway. So no drawings were done, as it was made on the fly.

But it proved the system, and once I get back into the swing of things again, I will make a simpler version, by using the figures I obtained from this one. It doesn’t need to be anywhere near as complicated as the one I made.

Bogs
9 October 2010 at 15:26 #56706
Hugh Gilhespie
Participant
@hughgilhespie56163
Bogs

I would also be very interested in the updated spraymister whenever you get a round tuit. No rush, I have yet to sort out the air system in my workshop, but I am planning on having air outlets at the lathe, mill and shaper specifically for spray mist cooling. I like having coolant and think it does make a difference, even with carbide tooling.

PS – I also made your tramming tool – it’s so good that now I even look forward to having to re-tram the mill!

Thanks, Hugh
9 October 2010 at 16:48 #56713
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
The nozzle arrangement is just like my paint spray gun, The size of the annulus around the fluid feed seems to be the most critical dimension in that application.
9 October 2010 at 21:28 #56719
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
Glad you enjoyed making your tramming tool Hugh. As long as you did the final true up in the lathe as I did, you should find it is spot on every time. It caused such a stir when I first showed it with all the die hards with long rubber necks pulling it to pieces. But a lot of people have made them now, and they think they really help them in setting their machines up.

Actually Kwil, the waymine works is the outer nozzle produces the increased flow by being a rough venturi shape, and where the tip of the inner nozzle sits in relation to the outer nozzle end depends how much liquid is sucked thru it.

I set it up until I can just see a minute amount of cutting fluid deposited when it is directed onto my thumbnail.

Bogs
9 October 2010 at 22:20 #56721
dcosta
Participant
@dcosta
Hello Bogs.

Will You be so kind as to let me know how I can find Your post about the tramming device?

Thanks in advance

Dias Costa
9 October 2010 at 23:43 #56723
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
Hi Dias,

this is the thread I followed, I thinkit is the only one Bogs has done on the construction

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=822.0

Remember before you do the final truing up on the lathe, to take a light skim off your faceplate, I was surprised how much runout I had in mine

regards

CB
10 October 2010 at 01:20 #56727
John Olsen
Participant
@johnolsen79199
Speaking of air around machines….I know a lot of people are against cleaning down a machine with air, but it is really handy for getting the packed in swarf out of those tiny torx screws on the inserts, also for any ordinary allen screws that you can’t get the key into.

regards

John
10 October 2010 at 09:30 #56732
David Clark 13
Participant
@davidclark13
Hi There

A spray can of WD40 is ideal for removing swarf from torx screws.

regards David
10 October 2010 at 17:36 #56752
dcosta
Participant
@dcosta
Hello “CoalBurnner”.

Thank You for Your help.

You said:

Remember before you do the final truing up on the lathe, to take a light skim off your faceplate, I was surprised how much runout I had in mine

I say:

Yes, I will.

However in my lathe (an original Emco Compact 8) I can use the original collets and its chuck.

Also the spindle nose in the Compact 8 is not machineable. It is tapered (similar to ISO 55021).

Best regards

Dias Costa

CB

t is not a matter of language, I can translate what I need. I will close this thread as I feel I was goaded into a response..
10 October 2010 at 18:47 #56757
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
CB

You cannot use your collets to true it up, they might not be accurate enough. You have to do it using a faceplate as shown.

A faceplate is normally supplied as an attachment, just like a chuck, and is used for clamping parts to that would normally prove too difficult to hold using normal methods.

It is that final truing up that makes the tool accurate and useable.

If you don’t have a faceplate, then you can’t attempt to make an accurate version of it.

Bogs
11 October 2010 at 00:37 #56771
dcosta
Participant
@dcosta
Hello Bogs.

Thank You for Your attention to my message and help.

Now I understand better Your recommendation on using the face plate.

When I bought my lathe Emco Compact 8 (30 or so years ago) I postponed the buying of the face plate and when I wanted I couldn’t find it in the market.

So, last year I bought an unmachined back plate with the purpose to machine it to make a face plate and postponed the project. Now it’s time to go ahead with it.

And then I hope I’ll start with the tramming tool.

Best regards

Dias Costa

P.S.: My message had some garbage after my signature I left there by accident.

I’m sorry.
Author

Posts