Making studs

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

Making studs

This topic has 13 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 12 September 2010 at 20:14 by Speedy Builder5.

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

Author

Posts
8 September 2010 at 12:03 #5177
Peter Wood 5
Participant
@peterwood5
Advert

8 September 2010 at 12:03 #55312
Peter Wood 5
Participant
@peterwood5
Can anybody give me advice on how to make studs succesfully. I am building a Anthony Mount model and would like to do the job properly rather than use threaded rod or machine screws. The model calls for a variety of studs from 6BA up to M6.

At present I am trying to make them in my 7X10 lathe. Threading the first end is easy but when I reverse the work in the chuck and start to cut the tread at the opposite end with a die the work slips in the chuck. Progessive tightening of the chuck inevitably eventually damages the first thread and/or the stud shank. I am using cutting oil and good quality dies and turning the chuck by hand, backing off regularly.
8 September 2010 at 12:31 #55314
IanT
Participant
@iant
You will find a collet chuck much better suited to doing this kind of work Peter (I assume you are trying to use a 3-jaw currently?)

If you don’t want to invest in a full collet set (ER is the easiest choice) – and assuming your lathe has a morse taper headstock – a simple morse taper collet is all you will need (obviously one for each diameter of studding rod).
8 September 2010 at 12:31 #55315
IanT
Participant
@iant
One more thought – you could also make your own simple collets from brass rod or tube if the ID is Ok. Drill the rod for the required stud and then cutting a couple of slots down most (but not all) of the length. Then you will be able to hold your studs without damage in a 3 jaw – but collets are easier to use and have other applications.

Edited By IanT on 08/09/2010 12:37:21
8 September 2010 at 12:31 #55316
Anonymous
I can’t be of direct help, as I normally make studs using a capstan unit and a Coventry die head, but when I need to reverse a stud I make up a ‘tophat’ with an accurately sized blind hole to locate the plain portion of the stud and a few threads of the appropriate size at the bottom of the hole to stop the stud turning.

It’s a bit of a pain to get the stud out at the end of the operation, but it’s better than ending up with no stud.

Regards,

Andrew
8 September 2010 at 12:34 #55318
Bogstandard
Participant
@bogstandard
Hi Peter,

The easy way to overcome the damage is to thread one end first on all your studs.

Then put a bit of scrap bar into your chuck, face it off and drill and tap to your required thread. Put a half width nut on the stud thread and screw stud into the just made hole, using the nut to lock it into position. Keep the nut as close to the middle plain portion of the stud as possible.

Cut your second thread, slacken lock nut and screw out. Repeat with all your other studs.

Hope this helps.

Bogs
8 September 2010 at 13:13 #55320
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Not a direct answer to the original OP question as he stated he had a 7 x 12 lathe but when I make studs [ often ] I use a 5C collet chuck with a blank collet bored and tapped to the thread size.

This way no damage to the threads, plenty of grip and it’s not too much of a pain to remove them as I tend to make the shorter end first.

I probably have about 5 or 6 threaded collets in the usual metric sizes, not overly expensive as they get added to bit by bit and not an outright buy.

Forgot to say, make the first end using a plain collet and do the short end first, this was it doesn’t spin in the threaded collet doing the more demanding longer end.
8 September 2010 at 13:17 #55321
Paul Boscott
Participant
@paulboscott25817
Peter

I do as Bogs but use a split threaded brass mushroom and no locknut the flange of the mushroom is against the chuck jaws to the fix the base of the thead in a known positoin then tightning the chuch locks the stud in position the play in the tail stock die holder centers the second thread

I find it better to use studs that threaded bar as it makes the hight of the stud independant of the depth of the treaded hole and you can more easly get the two threads above the nut.

Paul

Edited By Paul Boscott on 08/09/2010 13:21:53
9 September 2010 at 10:24 #55375
Peter Wood 5
Participant
@peterwood5
Thanks for all the suggestions. Initially I think I will try the Bogs method but in the longer term I might purchase proper collets. That raises the question of which sort is best but that is probably a different thread ( sorry unintended!).
9 September 2010 at 11:02 #55378
Axel Bentell
Participant
@axelbentell
I´ve split one side of a nut, and used that as a chucking peice, used to work, but that was in M10 and M12 usually, sometimes M8. The smaller nuts might be too small, but a home made longer one should work I belive!?
9 September 2010 at 13:51 #55384
Richard Parsons
Participant
@richardparsons61721
Peter use studding or make your self a lantern chuck. Turn a piece of steel two to three times the length of the threads of the longest stud you are going to make and about 4-6 mm wider than the widest stud you are going to use. Drill and tap (6mm) a blind hole in it to leave just enough metal to allow your shortest stud to screw in and project on the inside of the blind hole. Put it aside somewhere safe

I would then make all of the studs (and a few spares) you need. These will be threaded on one end only.

Put your lantern chuck into the lathe blank end outwards and a grub screw into the blind hole. I always mark the chuck against one of the jaws of my 3-jaw. This helps to get it back accurately. Drill it and tap for the smallest stud (6BA). Screw in a stud and with a long hex key screw the grub screw up tight (I made mine from a length of scrap with a bit of a cheap hex key and two corks which I push up the head pipe of the lathe). Cut your thread, loosen the grub screw remove the finished stud and repeate. When you have finished all the smallest studs, re-drill and thread the lantern chuck for the next size up.
9 September 2010 at 17:43 #55396
Peter Wood 5
Participant
@peterwood5
Ricard that sounds a clever approach but why can’t the lantern chuck be removed from the 3 jaw between individual workpieces. That way you would not need a long Allen key and the mark could be used to align with the correct jaw on replacing.

Also, does the threaded blind hole and grub screw have to be a larger diameter than the stud being threaded?

Out of curiosity, why is it called a lantern chuck?
10 September 2010 at 12:36 #55434
Richard Parsons
Participant
@richardparsons61721
Three Jaws chucks are not always very accurate and can be tricky to put things back in to it. You can get problems even if you mark the thing. Hence the long screwdriver which is passed up the head pipe of the lathe and is held by a brace of old vine bottle corks. The long ‘driver was made from a bit of an old window stay with a hole drilled up it and the bit old allen key was crimped in. As my Chinese friend the inspector Mr Wun Thou Wong says ‘Keep it simple sirry irrot’ Using the long screw driver you can use the chuck to help you loosen the grub screw which can become very tight as you cut the thread. It is a good idea to have two nuts and two spanners to help get a finished stud out if it gets too tight during threading. Tip Do not let the end of the thread get too close to the face of the lantern.

Does the screw have to bigger than the stud –No- but the largest stud you want to make (as I read it) is 6mm so … Doing it my way you only have to make one chuck.

Why is it called a lantern chuck? It is a clock maker’s name. The original type is used to shorten screws (or re-thread them). Two sides of the business end are filed away so it looks like an old fashioned lantern. These filed holes were used to let the operator put the a screw in (and remove them).
12 September 2010 at 20:14 #55525
Speedy Builder5
Participant
@speedybuilder5
Just another thought, as Bogs but put a small steel ball in the end of the threaded bar (hold it in with grease). Don’t need a locknut, and the stud just popps out after threading the second end. It will leave a nice dimple on one end, but that is usually OK.
Author

Posts