Hi John

I started out like you,
a shed in garden, but before I got the permanent electrical line, I
lined out the shed with loft insulation between the framework, then
covered with hardboard, the roof is done as well, make sure there are
no holes to course draughts which course the condensation (my opinion
of course), next use 2 m/m clear plastic has supplied by Wickes to
double glaze windows, if one or two open draught proof them.

I had my ML10 in my old
shed from 1982 and had very very little condensation/rust and rubbed
an oily rag on it when I remembered that is using, cheapo 3in1 from
wilkinsons or a pound shop nowadays

In my new 12ftx8ft with
6ft eaves I bought last year I have not double glazed the windows
has yet and I paid for it with light rust on X1 table even though it
was covered with a nylon/rayon sheet,

(this
may have helped course it, has I normally use an old curtain of
cotton on the lathe ), (my opinion of course).

In the roof i used the
large sheets of foam used by the building industry for insulation
and made a tight fit to spare using glue (big mistake, shrinkage is
too much use cheapo silicone from pound shop in circular blobs).
Knock up two T pieces of any spare timber to hold up the foam while
it dries.

I have had my X1 for I
believe 6 years and only just done a long job on it for the pcb to
fail and that was only slitting some collets for mandrel stops,
turned out it was a loose wire, which arceurotrade sorted for a few
pounds but it appears it is a common occurrence,
there was no moisture in the compartment where the pcb is kept has I
had to strip it and the motor to send to arceurotrade to check
everything was alright when they were finished with it.

yours Tony Spencer