The Book (Rob Roy / William ISBN 0 85242 929 0) by Martin Evans is based on using a lathe exclusively although for jobs like the coupling rods and expansion link I found the milling machine a great advantage.
Certainly a good drilling machine and table is needed.
Having both machines means that I don’t spend so much time breaking down and setting up different machining configurations.
Feel free to contact me direct if my recent experience can be of any use.
During the main construction I kept fairly up to date/speed with the painting, inside frames Vermilion red, outside black, wheels etc black..
As you know it is a freelance design, and therefore we are not tied to a particular colour scheme, or in my case guided by it!
As it was, we had a Hornby 2-6-2 O-O gauge train set with a red loco. Seeing this as a model colour scheme, I basically copied that, however this had totally discoloured and was far darker than LMS Crimson Lake, which would have been reasonable.
In addition, at the time I was somewhat stuck for cash, and having just bought loads of brass sheet, I took a big shortcut with the painting and instead of buying more etch primer, and correctly coloured top coat, I used car aerosol paint about the right colour!
This did look OK at first, although the colour was far too dark to look right in proper context (It was more a deep burgundy than Crimson Lake) fairly quickly the paint chipped away and separated from the brasswork.
Ho Hum!
So I am probably the last person to ask about choice of colour schemes and painting!
I would, now in hindsight, recommend choosing a standard colour scheme from LMS or any other, and sticking to that faithfully. You do have a choice of Red, Black, Blue and Green schemes, and these will always look correct
I have moved ‘up’ to model engineering to learn how to use a workshop to build Gauge 1 live steam models but my background is in OO Gauge, O Gauge and Gauge 1 electrically powered model locos etc.
>>
In these smaller scales it is generally accepted that brass is one of the poorest ‘acceptors’ of paint, so much so in fact that some etched brass kit producers offer an option of having the kit frets produced entirely of nickel silver (normally the bodywork is produced in brass and the chassis in nickel silver). Currently the smaller scales recommend some form of etch primer after the body has been thorough scrubbed with some form of non-greasy cleaner with a tooth brush etc under a running tap. Some go so far as to recommend a chemical cleaning process and in the smaller scales an ultrasonic bath. You can also purchase a shot blasting air brush type machine to prepare the surface.
>>
I can thoroughly recommend ‘A Modellers Handbook of Painting and Lining by Ian Rathbone, which although aimed at the smallers scales has numourous techniques that are applicable to the larger scales. As the review says:-
>>
“The author has been building and painting model railway locomotives and rolling stock for nearly thirty years, the last twelve as a professional, during which time he has continually updated the methods used. This book takes the reader through all the stages from preparation and priming to painting, lining,hand lettering and numbering, finishing and weathering. While many readers may feel they will never reach the standards shown in the book,it is a pleasure to peruse and an inspiration to all.. Softcover, 154 pages, 303 colour, 12 b/w illustrations”.
thanks to everyone for taking the time to post me a reply about a milling machune for william.I intned to go doem the route of buying a compound table for my drill.I amat presnt making Harold Halls MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR MY CHESTER DBV7 WILL keep you posted on progress of william again many thanks trevor mouncey
Author
Posts
Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.