Welcome Fulmen.

Aways a warm welcome to a fellow machinist from anywhere in the world.

Ask your questions and there is always help and advice.

Look forward to seeing you progress.

https://groups.io/g/Quorn-Owners/topics

**LINK**

I the past i have fabricated a machine base from 6mm plate with a frame of rectangular bar steel 20×10, used edge on. With a couple of cross brace pieces from the same material. I did not have a welder so used 6mm countersunk hex screws through top plate into the rectangular bar.
It was a compromise but worked well.

If large material is not available or too expensive then fabrication can be useful.

Best of luck.

Aluminium base – I made my copy from what I had lying around, photo's here:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=58414

I did get a copy of the construction book with some other books I bought, it was / is very useful. Fit a cover over the front bar and I use a vacuum cleaner as well – it does wonders keeping grinding dust down.

Things I would change – put the 0 pointer at the front of the degree scale, under the arm may have been the easiest to machine out of one lump of steel but is a PITA to use.

Hi Fulmen, welcome to the forum.

Assuming you're still living in Norway, how about taking a holiday in Britain. Visit museums or railways of interest and personally collect all the heavy bits of metal needed. Presumably, if you use a ferry you could side step the airlines exorbitant charges for weight of baggage. View various suppliers websites and arrange for purchases to be collected. Just a thought.

Good luck with your project and please let us all know how you get on with progress reports.

Regards

John

The front bar, presumably of steel, slides in the base so that aluminium may not be ideal.

Welcome to the forum

H

Fulmen, nicely drawn spindle. I think you might need to extend a few of those threads to make it assemblable, but I'm sure you realise that already . If you are making this yourself then here are a couple of more helpful points to consider:-

1) The solid abutment within the housing could be made as a separate sleeve which is then located in place by a couple of screws from the outside. This could be easier to make, and potentially more accurate too in terms of squareness of the important right-hand abutment face. (This is how J&S do it on grinding spindles.)

2) You have incorporated a pair of AC type bearings which is the traditional choice for such spindles. However, its extremely likely that a pair of conventional deep-groove ball bearings will be perfectly adequate here, technically, and will of course be significantly cheaper too. By selecting a C3 clearance grade, provided you shaft interference fits are not excessive, they will automatically become an approximately 15deg angular contact once loaded by the spring-box arrangement.

Gerry

Nice drawing – essentially a Quorn type I think? The Quorn has an 8mm taper that matches a standard watchmaking type of collet I think – these collets are quite hard to find and expensive. You can of course just use a plain tapered mandrel but if you were thinking of fitting collets as well maybe consider an ER16 nose? You could use it with a drawbar for wheel mandrels and have the option of collets.