Thanks Anthony I had looked all over the place for a guide of some sort. I also searched for it. The part number brought up the legs.

Thanks Jason. I wondered where I would need to get the rail from. I'd noticed that several places sell it but Ikea's might be different. As I am putting in the partition wall I can make sure it's square to at leas one wall but as it turns out not much will run along it as the stove needs back onto it. There needs to be door in it too

I've only used Ikea bedroom stuff but the quality seems more than ok to me. They also have some interesting ideas. My wife likes stuffing things in cupboards so it's impossible to see what's in then – Ikea – pull out draws. They also have a pretty large selection of options on cabinets. One I'll make up myself and just fit their doors too it unless there is not so deep as usual that's also rather tall.

The floor boards here rotted out long before we bought the house so it's all going down on concrete, The rest of the house has always had a solid floor. I decided to leave some of the wall in just to be safe. It's not load bearing and doesn't match up with the joists above. It leaves a sort niche that nicely takes a sink. My wife has expressed doubts about this as there will no window above it. I just said well there is a drain on the other side of the wall so ok so far.

John

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I think Magnet are one of the few that use high density chip board. My wife will test the Ikea's idea of keeping tins, flour and who know what in deep drawers in base units for them.

No white goods other than a USA style fridge freezer as my wife is good at filling up the 2 we have at the moment. Both will be going.

The fridge freezer will look a little odd where it's going. The "utility room" that we are creating is my workshop. The washing machine was going in there but the plumbing changes that would be needed are a nightmare so may do that when the boiler is changed. Just mean changing one base unit in the kitchen when it's moved. When that happens it will be under my lathe. I'll probably get swarf in my socks.

We were going to fit a 1 1/2 bowl main sink but no sensible place to put the kettle nearby. So quick change. Bigger main single bowl sink and a rather small one where the kettle can be close. The small one can use some of the plumbing used on the old sink.

Just need to talk to Ikea about rejigging some of the tall units now. The carcasses all seem to be the same and everything comes it's own package so they should be able to do this.

I'me hopping water and a gas pipe can be run behind the base units. If not some will have be under them.

John

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Not much movement for the time spent. I was going to fit stud partitioning but we have a building coming in to build a block wall. I started getting concerned about obtaining straight timbers that would stay that way.

Photo with me new wide angle lens. The depth distortion is pretty impressive.

It looks like Panasonic do what Olympus do with 7mm focal length and jpg correction – it's probably actually 6.5mm. More width is available from raw. I'd didn't fancy the size, weight or price of the Olympus one.

I finish up with a workshop 5' 4" deep with room for more racking. The false ceiling behind the shot is removed as we need to extend it.

We tried the press on the draws test at Ikea yesterday. The flex but seem ok with say 50kg on them. As my wife will load them up with tins and all sorts we've restricted the width to 600mm.

We also bought the first cabinet. A tall one, 2.4m, They don't seem to have skirting board in Sweden so that is going to have to come off. Hardly any room behind the rear panel either, I doubt if 2.5mm twin and earth would fit. It might but I have my doubts. The wall may need channelling. Depends what I find when the tall cabinet is fitted as it needs to go up against the bit of wall that is left. I may have to pack out their unit hanging strips. They suggest a 125mm filler strip to match as wall to the side of a tall cabinet. Rather than do that and trim it to suite I'l remove some plaster and set some plaster board to match it when it's dead level.

We have some odd wiring sticking out now so suppose I will have to disconnect it under the floor boards on the first floor. I've found one from the past that is plastered in with tape over the end. Also some of the old rubber stuff that has been disconnected long ago. Interesting – it's still in good condition.

Looking at my kit now I'm wondering if I will ever sort it out. Next thing is to dust sheets over the lot for yet more dust,

I'll add to this post as I go along. Might be useful for others doing the same. So far I would suggest buying a couple of units first rather than the lot so that installation problems can be planned. Being an Ikea family member helps. They pick the stuff for you then and do an excellent breakfast for £1.50 between 10 and 11am. At least I don't think I paid for picking and we had to do that ourselves when we bought some bedroom furniture.

They will take stuff back too some one starts and it proves too much etc.

John

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I think CLS is planed Nei. Treated it's just as expensive as the other type I mentioned. However as I need 24 3m lengths I could treat it myself. The garage roof was unreinforced concrete over planking and had failed due to woodworm so I have plenty of good preservative. I had all of the replacement timber coated with it just in case they are still about,

The old ceiling was held up with sawn and treated timber. A bit on the light side – 2×1 but used some sort of extremely light foamed board rather than plaster board. It hardly weighed anything at all. Bit of a surprise when we pulled it down. The lath and plaster ceiling above that is in a disgusting state – water leak at some point  probably.

Jason's correct CLS is cheapest. When I have fasted plasterboard to walls using screws I've used roofing laths that were screwed to the wall. The units wouldn't fit if I did that in the kitchen.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 14/11/2016 23:50:19

Wickes is cheaper for cls – just but B&Q only stock 2.4m lengths. B&Q employ people to go round changing prices daily. A lady my son new at university did it as a part time job. They insisted she did several hours of this every day and wouldn't job share the work.

I'd guess any timber yard is likely to be cheaper than both and the one round the corner keeps all of his stuff in a building rather than in the open air.

Toolstation do a wood treatment called Lumberjack. 3 coats are recommended and each soaks in easily. One can goes a long way and the drying time isn't too bad. As I have it I may as well use it.

The man who started Toolstation up also started Screwfix up and later sold it to B&Q. Looks like he may have sold Toolstation to Wickes as our local one has taken over some of Wickes's store. I've heard that he was going to start another but no idea what the name will be.

I used a tenon saw to cut the plaster and leave a clean edge for a pad chisel to work up  to. They are also good for taking the tongue of floor boarding when it needs to be got up. Just work it in at a slight angle and once  started it's easy to do.

I tried a reciprocating saw to cut back some brick work. It doesn't make so much mess as an angle grinder but dust still comes off and for some reason the blade seemed to cut quicker if the saw was rocked.

While this all takes time it should make installing the actual kitchen a lot quicker. One other simpler way of doing the same sort of thing with the walls is to use plasterboard on them and set it true.  In this case though the units just fit leaving space for a pedal waste bin.

Electrics cropped up in another thread.  I've checked. If white goods are built in there should be some way of switching them off that is easy to get at. Not so if separate – just need to be able to switch them off when they are pulled out. There may be some cross over here as it could be possible to pull built in units out.

Sockets are still ok 300mm from a sink – to the side. If plugs etc are positioned under a sink they must be positioned so that leaks wont drip on them.

Gas pipe bonding should be 10mm^2. I thought it was 6. Water pipe bonding should be after the stop cock. Wonder what happens if plastic is used???? It could be these days as push fit is much much quicker. Seems that gas can come into the house in plastic  too so bonding is after the meter.

Some work was done here when wiring needed to be in some sort of metal conduit. That changed to plastic at some point. That's gone. If running vertical or horizontal from the points it's not needed. Only of it departs from those areas.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 15/11/2016 10:44:20