From a position of absolute ignoramce, would this suggestion have any merit? I understand that you want to remove redundant teeth, without doing intermittent cuts. Being a non-engineer, I would get my trusty angle grinder with a cutting disc and remove each tooth individually and THEN put the fkywheel in the lathe to clean up. How close to the teeth roots you cut would determine the interrupted cut required.

Someone better qualified will be along shortly with the correct way of doing it.

rgds

Bill

If it were mine I would drill your holes through and bolt it to a faceplate and turn the teeth off. If you mill the teeth off you will bash the guts out of a milling cutter and mill spindle bearings so might as well do it on the lathe and bash the guts out of a lathe tool and lathe spindle bearings. I doubt you will do any damage to either lathe or mill whichever way you choose to go, machine tools are designed to take a bit of abuse, spend a few years in industry and you would see them being abused on a daily basis, if industry were too precious about their machinery they would never make any money.

Since hundreds of thousands of these cars were made, surely you can find another flywheel?

If you must get the teeth off the one you have, if it were me, I'd grind a few teeth off to make room for a saw blade width. Then cut the major part of the rest of the teeth off with a bandsaw. Mill the rest off to a clean diameter by mounting it on a pivot pin and rotating it past a 1/2" or larger dia cutter. Just food for thought.

I look for a picture on your forum whit no picture.i would suggest fitting boss where it fits to engine trying to keep it central better if there was hole in centre of the flywheel to work from. and grip in four jaw to centre. but remove the teeth with anglegrinder

I agree with Jeff's suggestion, why not just get a refurbished flywheel, probably with a ring gear shrunk on, then you will be able to start by bump starting, crank handle and electric start. You wont have to worry about the lathe or mill, the teeth might be flame hardened on the old flywheel.

I wouldn't subject rotary table gears to that sort of treatment especially with the extra leverage that the height of a three jaw chuck gives. If the table has 4 tee slots bolt the flywheel direct to it using the 1/2 BSF holes, if it's a 3 slot table that leaves you your faceplate idea as the best bet.

Clamp the flywheel to the mill table then with use of x and y hand wheels roughly mill off the teeth. Make a mandrel to fit the bore with a flange on the chuck side that has two or one drive slot that the stud can be driven by and a nut or washer and bolts on the end. Then finish turn on this.

You may think it daft to try to mill round a circle with x and y hand wheels but you may be surprised how easy it is and how close you can get.

Cornish Jack is on the money. Either cut the teeth off by hand or set up on a face plate and rig the grinder as a toolpost grinder. BUT as others have asked WHY take the teeth off ?

Noel

No, JS would have welded up the gaps between the teeth and then skimmed it to look tidy. The heating and subsequent cooling from the welding would also mean the teeth were no longer hard as witches bits. 

Edited By JasonB on 19/01/2020 18:44:05

The flywheel fits to the crankshaft by a short taper. You can turn a matching taper in the lathe with a short threaded section for a holding nut. Fit the flywheel to that and it will run true and should turn easily.

Russell

I lightened the flywheel on my Austin Seven Special many years ago, I used a spare crankshaft to set it up in the Harrison lathe and remove a few pounds of excess weight, it certainly helped with slicker gear changes and blipping the throttle when double de-clutching etc.

I also fitted a newly manufactured Phoenix Engineering crankshaft, this shows it set up in the lathe for hand lapping the taper between it and the flywheel.

I had already previously experienced a loose fly wheel prior to that, and did not want to repeat that again.

Phil