Probably easier to make one yourself; just make sure the threads at each end are truly square to the bar.
Measure the through bore of the spindle, and wither thread both ends of a bit of round bar, or use some threaded rod.
You might need two anyway, depending on what accessories you use; 10mm & 3/8" are the normal, though I also have one with M6 at the bottom end.

For the top end I use a commercial plastic knob with a brass threaded insert cast in during manufacture; it doesn't need to me too tight, as a Morse 2 taper is self locking anyway.

I don't actually use MT2 tooling that often on the DW mill, prefering an ER25 chuck on a Myford nose thread

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 16/05/2023 12:58:05

Hello Smudge,

I made a knock out bar with a brass business end and weighted lump on the pulley end to release Morse tapers rather than impacting threaded draw bars. My DW is a Mk II with 3 MT taper socket and this arrangement has worked successfully since I built the machine > 30 years ago.

Regards Brian

Unfortunately the MKl D/W only has a 5/16" clearance hole through the spindle, not sure about the MKll machine. So using standard 3/8" or 10mm drawbar and accessories won't work. I overcame this annoyance on my D/W by making adapter pieces that are threaded 3/8" Whit on the male end and tapped 5/16" on the other end. These were permanently attached to the collet, drill chuck morse taper etc with screwlock. The top end of the drawbar was threaded 5/16" to take a nut and washer that acts against the top of the spindle. To release l give the drawbar a smart blow with a lead hammer. Has worked for me these last 40 years since I constructed the machine. Phil

Sorry not quick enough to edit post, so see added photo here

Bill

Sorry for misleading you initially, My Centec has a captive drawbar, and this makes the arbor self ejecting when you turn it anticlockwise; it's convenient sometimes, and a pain others when I need to change the drawbar as well as the tooling.
When you do make one, try and pay lots of attention to ensuring the thread is square to the material; if not, it will be hard to screw into the top of the arbor.

Start it off in the lathe with the die/holder against the tailstock or a thrust pad, or ideally a tailstock die holder.
If you've never done any lathe screwcutting, maybe this would be a good time to practice.
You only need to do the first few passes in the lathe, after which you can finish to final size with a die.
If you know all the above then my apologies, but it might help someone re-visiting this thread in the future.
I'm fortunate in having a Coventry/Herbert die head so I used that for making mine.

Bill