Chris,
I don't know this model but I am pretty sure extracting the spindle/quill assembly will be very similar to what is done on other makes of drill.
You need to extract the pinion shaft that racks that part up and down. There will probably be a clock spring attached to the shaft on the left hand side as you look at the machine, fitted into a housing of some kind that can be wound up and then locked to vary the degree of spring return as you crank the operating capstan on the right hand side. Often there is then nothing to prevent the innards from dropping out of the bottom of the drill housing, so be prepared for that. At the top end the spindle will have a splined section that engages with internally cut splined in the drive pulley
Once you have that out you may be able to see how the speed shift gearing works. The pinch bolts, you are correct, one is missing, that close up the central split in the casting may either adjust the grip on the quill to take out any slop or act as a locking feature
Refitting is a case of inserting the quill again, making sure the pulley splines engage and holding it in place with a prop of some sort so that you can refit the pinion shaft. You will need to work on the spring return to reset that to a tension that will raise the spindle again without it being too enthusiastic
I hope these notes help Brian
I should have added that the short shaft with a pin in your last picture engages the pin into the slot at the bottom of the hole it is next to raise and lowered that slug to alter the gearing. Beyond that you may well find out what it does when it operated once you have an internal view Brian
Edited By Brian Wood on 16/01/2023 17:25:11